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What's the best adhesive for sticking in foam light seals

benjiboy

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I have some non adhesive light seal foam to use in one of my Canon SLR's what's the best adhesive to use for it.
 
get a roll of very thin 3M double sided tape, laminate your seal material with that. Then its a peel n stick affair as you cut your strips to fit the grooves.

Otherwise it was contact cement in the old days n that gets so very messy if you haven't practiced using it.

I see lots of DIYers using plibond to put in seals, but that can get very messy as well.
 
  • AgX
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If you go the Pliobond route, don't apply it to both surfaces. I've always applied
it in the groove.

I never thought about making my own peel off foam as paul suggests but will now
 
Pliobond will sure hold it, but it may be tough if you ever have to remove it. Just one other thing, it stinks (literally), but that pretty well goes away when it dries.
 
You'd better buy some self adhesive material to light seal your camera. Else, things can become too messy.
 
zanxion72 said:
You'd better buy some self adhesive material to light seal your camera. Else, things can become too messy.
Click to expand...
Actually that's what I was afraid of and why I asked the question, because there is a lot of light seal kits on Ebay that are are a mixture of self adhesive and non adhesive foam sheets, and I wondered what I could stick the latter in with.
 
I use Pliobond for all adhesive work on cameras, particularly for replacing the leatherette coverings.

It's very strong, weather and temperature resistant, and will peel off if you need access in the future.

The only thing adhesive does for light seals is prevent them from falling out when the camera is open.
In normal use they're held in place by pressure of the mating parts.

- Leigh
 
I also use the foam with a self-stick back:
 

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UK equivalent of Pliobond is Evostick contact adhesive use a wooden tooth pick from boots, you want the original solvent based type (readily available), the newer latex based version is completely useless.

Ian
 
3M 467. Or leave a bit of the sticky residue from the old foam.

Often, you will not need any adhesive. Cut the foam to be a tight fit and it will stay in place on somewhere such as around the perimeter of the back and it will probably have a mating part which goes into the slot up against the foam.


Steve.
 
For re-foaming speakers I use a water-based glue which stays elastic. Bought it at an online audio shop.
 
Please contact me via email. I've written more light seal instructions than anyone on the planet and I can help...
Jon
 
Jon Goodman said:
Please contact me via email. I've written more light seal instructions than anyone on the planet and I can help...
Jon
Click to expand...
Thanks, Jon, I've already downloaded your instructions, and I did the job three days ago, I managed to get some 2mmX2mm self-adhesive foam strips and 1mm sheet for the door hinge from a friend who's camera repairer.
 
You may also want to try Micro Scale industries Micro metal Foil Adhesive. It´s like diluted PVA glue but once it dries clear in minutes, it leaves sticky surface for material cling into. Can be applied with a small brush and removed with Isopropyl alcohol. You can usually find it in Hobby stores selling plastic model kits and accessories.

-Vesa
 
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