I had a similar experience to boswald's story. I went to my corner pharmacy asking for syringes, they told me that they cant sell them, but if I sign up for the methodone program, I can have them for free.
What's so special about Rodinal
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I would never expect such pleasing result from this film. I've read a lot about troubles with Rollei developers and was not willing to go that route, but this is tempting to try just for fun. Would you mind sharing details about exposure and development?
In my area (Rhode Island USA), you can get syringes that can't be used with needles. They're intended to measure and dispense children's medications orally. I've got a couple in my darkroom. I use them to measure small quantities of liquids -- Rodinal, Photo Flo, etc. I seem to recall hearing you can get similar syringes from Photographer's Formulary, but their Web site is still down so I can't check this.
Hi Palec,
So far, ATP 1.1 was the only Rollei film to give me some trouble and I've used Pan 25 and Ortho without any issues. I really do love RLS developer and use it almost excusively with Delta 100 and TMax 100 (ISO50). You can have a look here for a Delta 100 (120) and Rollei RLS http://www.flickr.com/photos/leicaman/4689028835/in/set-72157623318963523/
The only problem is the limited shelf life and it's not cheap.
I will have a look at my notes when I get home and reply in regards to development for that 1.1 roll.
Best,
Max
Thank you Max,
I should have been more accurate that I've read bad things about Rollei devs in combination with ATP 1.1 (like you've stated). I've used their devs for other films and papers with success. What interests me most is the amount of Rodinal and water for working solution in such high dillution 1+300.
I should have been more accurate that I've read bad things about Rollei devs in combination with ATP 1.1 (like you've stated). I've used their devs for other films and papers with success. What interests me most is the amount of Rodinal and water for working solution in such high dillution 1+300.
Hi Palec,
I use a two roll Paterson tank, 1:300 = 2ml of Rodinal + 498ml of water (distilled). Don't let anyone scare you into thinking about a "minimal" amount of Rodinal for these high dilutions. 2ml is all you need and it works like a charm. If I remember correctly, I develop for 11 1/2 min @ 68 degrees with one gentle inversion every minute.
I use a two roll Paterson tank, 1:300 = 2ml of Rodinal + 498ml of water (distilled). Don't let anyone scare you into thinking about a "minimal" amount of Rodinal for these high dilutions. 2ml is all you need and it works like a charm. If I remember correctly, I develop for 11 1/2 min @ 68 degrees with one gentle inversion every minute.
All technical is said in the old tread.
I only like to add that it is rock solid, next to the beautiful tones and sharpness.
Often I taken the bottle on the go, hotels, holidays etc. It stays in my superheated car etc.
Guess the old photographers were not lab technicians, but people on the move. And actually many famous ones were somewhat atechnical. Adams being an exceptional exception.
Rodinal is very forgiving.
I use both rodinal and HC110, both for their reliability and indestructiveness.
About 2 bottles of 500ml per year, still the old AGFA, and I can assure you there is no need for special care, during that period.
As an amateur I try out many different films, but I really really regret AFGA disappeared.
APX100 (with rodinal) is Still my favourite.
try it !
The kodaks, ilfords and fuji's are equally excellent, just a matter of taste.
I only like to add that it is rock solid, next to the beautiful tones and sharpness.
Often I taken the bottle on the go, hotels, holidays etc. It stays in my superheated car etc.
Guess the old photographers were not lab technicians, but people on the move. And actually many famous ones were somewhat atechnical. Adams being an exceptional exception.
Rodinal is very forgiving.
I use both rodinal and HC110, both for their reliability and indestructiveness.
About 2 bottles of 500ml per year, still the old AGFA, and I can assure you there is no need for special care, during that period.
As an amateur I try out many different films, but I really really regret AFGA disappeared.
APX100 (with rodinal) is Still my favourite.
try it !
The kodaks, ilfords and fuji's are equally excellent, just a matter of taste.
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry yes..typo there..598ml of water. Thanks!
OP
OP
Around here, you can get the 10mL children's dosing syringes for free at any pharmancy. I use them for measuring out HC110 and rodinal. What's even better though, is the big 50-100mL syringes, which are big enough to store the developer in for use. I have 2 of them, one is plastic that I got at a garage sale, one is glass that I obtained from work. These are even better because I suck them full of developer and cap them. Then when I need some developer I don't even have to open a bottle and fill a small syringe up; all I have to do is uncap the syringe and squirt in 5 or 10mL or whatever. The developer has stayed really clear this way too, since there is no contact with air.
Another question as continuation of this thread; I was just going to PM Gainer but thought others might be interested.
At the end of the unblinkingeye article cited by Lee L, it is suggested to add 1g/L of Borax to 1:50 Rodinal in order to reduce fog and grain instead of Vitamin C or sodium ascorbate. Has anyone done this and what are you results? Given that I am printing 8x10's with FP4+ from a 6x7 negative, grain is not a significant issue but I always prefer less grain if I can avoid sacrificing acutance.
As well, Gainer suggests a 20% increase over the 1:25 dilution for development time as opposed to the 1:50 development time; realizing that everything needs testing, my thermometer is different than yours, my agitation is different, etc. is this also you collective experience?
At the end of the unblinkingeye article cited by Lee L, it is suggested to add 1g/L of Borax to 1:50 Rodinal in order to reduce fog and grain instead of Vitamin C or sodium ascorbate. Has anyone done this and what are you results? Given that I am printing 8x10's with FP4+ from a 6x7 negative, grain is not a significant issue but I always prefer less grain if I can avoid sacrificing acutance.
As well, Gainer suggests a 20% increase over the 1:25 dilution for development time as opposed to the 1:50 development time; realizing that everything needs testing, my thermometer is different than yours, my agitation is different, etc. is this also you collective experience?
rodinal has already really low fog... and if you need a fine grain developer why not a buffered MQ borax?, or even better a PC metaborate...
Because with films like APX100 and Tmax Rodinal gives finer grain, & better tonality than any buffered borax developer.
It's not a co-incidence that both Ilford & Kodak (and others) made their own versions, although the Kodak version was only available in Europe, The Kodak research came from their acquisition of Wellington & Ward (pre WW1), Mees had worked on p-Aminophenol developers.
Ian
yet to try, what about times and dilutions, advise me!
I have seen your images on Flickr - very impressive- welcome!
I love Rodinal & HP5+ 120 film. It gives good sharpness and i find the film speed is fairly accurate when processed in Rodinal.
Also, it's versatile. It can be used with pretty much any film by just varying the working solution concentration.
I'm in the process of buying a few boxes of Adonal (fresh Rodinal) for my Australian friends...
Thanks, Andrew!
What is the time, dilution and agitation you are using with HP5 120?
1:25 and 5.30 exposed at box speed.
I think i shot some rolls at 400 and used 7 minutes diluted 1:50 as well. Slightly more appealing grain.
It is a hardcore developer and requires some experimentation.
I developed a roll in T-Max developer too. 1:4 and 6 minutes. Delicious.
Will scan some and upload
Agitation was inversion method, twice at 30 second intervals in stainless tank. I keep this the same and then modify the developer concentration with 120 films.
Rodinal-sulfite
If you wish finer grain with Rodinal try diluting it with a 9% solution of sodium sulfite. Developing times are a bit less than those using plain water for diluting. The mild solvent action of the sulfite decreases the grain.
If you wish finer grain with Rodinal try diluting it with a 9% solution of sodium sulfite. Developing times are a bit less than those using plain water for diluting. The mild solvent action of the sulfite decreases the grain.
I just re-read this whole thread. Well, not every word of it exactly, but I was hunting for specific aspects of why Rodinal is special, and I couldn't come up with much other than low fog, how well it keeps, and mention of sharpness.
I almost want to start a new thread, with the question:
What, specifically, do you see in your prints that makes it clearly better for you than prints from negatives developed in other developers?
I would really like to know. And please state what you print on too.
I almost want to start a new thread, with the question:
What, specifically, do you see in your prints that makes it clearly better for you than prints from negatives developed in other developers?
I would really like to know. And please state what you print on too.
Rodinal is a very "clean" developer. Those pre-occupied with "grain" should consider that adding solvents to reduce APPARENT grain will also decrease accutance (a.k.a. - loosely - "sharpness").
Now - "been there, done that" -- and I'll choose accutance over grain any day of the week.
There is no free lunch. "Grain" is a characteristic of the film itself, and "tricks" applied to improve one characterstic usually result in degradation of another. I'd really like to know - specifically - of any exceptions.
Now - "been there, done that" -- and I'll choose accutance over grain any day of the week.
There is no free lunch. "Grain" is a characteristic of the film itself, and "tricks" applied to improve one characterstic usually result in degradation of another. I'd really like to know - specifically - of any exceptions.
Rodinal works particularly well with some films the most obvious being APX25 and APX100, and also Tmax 100. With these three films it gives exceptional sharpness fine grain and excellent tonality.
I used to use it for all formats from 35mm to 5x4, printing onto Agfa Record Rapd, then MCC, now Polywarmtone.
Ian
Ian,
Thanks for your reply.
When you say 'excellent tonality' - that can mean a million things and is a largely subjective statement. What exactly is excellent? How are shadows, mid-tones, and highlights rendered in relation to each other, and how are they compared to other developers? How are they excellent?
Thanks for your reply.
When you say 'excellent tonality' - that can mean a million things and is a largely subjective statement. What exactly is excellent? How are shadows, mid-tones, and highlights rendered in relation to each other, and how are they compared to other developers? How are they excellent?
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