What's a really good developing tank/reel combo for a noob to developing film?

[ME Super]

I'm definitely not a noob to film photography, but I want to get started in developing my own film at home. I'm definitely a bit of a noob in that regard. We did some tray development of paper negatives in my high school shop class, as we built pinhole cameras in there. A minute or so in Dektol, 30 seconds in stop bath, and 4 minutes in fixer, followed by a 30 minute wash (this was FB paper, as I recall). I've never done development of roll film in a tank though, so want to get people's opinions on what's an easy reel to load film onto in the dark (I have a changing bag). I'll start with 35mm, but want to expand to 120. I know I need a tank, developer, and fixer. I'll probably pick a developer that keeps well for long periods of time as I don't do a lot of B&W (I'm thinking HC-110) and maybe Ilford rapid fixer or Kodak rapid fixer.

My lab's fees for developing B&W are starting to get ridiculous, is what has prompted the desire to develop my own B&W. $12.99 for a roll of B&W, dev only, no prints or scans, and fees for push/pull processing are just as bad!

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

Most people start with Paterson tanks and reels. Some have difficulty loading film onto reels. I started with Paterson but now use stainless steel. Many people find stainless reels easier to load.

 

[MattKing]

I really like the AP/Arista Premium (Freestyle) reels in Paterson tanks - note that there is just one "t" in Paterson.
Here is a link to the reels: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel
Note the extra wide input "tabs" - important to me for 120, not so critical for 35mm.
The corresponding AP/Arista Premium tanks are good too.
I also really like stainless steel reels for 35mm - not necessarily the Hewes variety, but they are really good. I struggle with the 120 versions.

 

[Eric Rose]

I used stainless for years and then switched to Paterson and have never regretted it. Basically it's what works best for you. Each is good.

 

[MattKing]

And the JOBO tank and processor combo is definitely worth considering.

 

[jimjm]

I've used steel reels in the past, but have been using Paterson reels and tanks for the past 10 years or so for 35mm and 120 film. One's not better than the other, it's just a matter of personal preference. You do need to keep the Paterson reels relatively clean to ensure smooth loading, especially if you use a changing bag. HC-110 is perfect if you develop infrequently as one bottle of concentrate will keep for years. Very economical too.

 

[canuhead]

If you decide to go steel do yourself a favour and spend the extra money and get Hewes reels. These reels (there are specific ones for Jobo cores and regular reels) with the Jobo 15xx tanks are the cat's ass

 

[runswithsizzers]

+1 the Hewes reels, especially for 35mm. The Hewes reels for 35mm have a unique tab at the center with two hooks that snag the sprocket holes of your film. I find it to be much easier to start the film winding process in the dark with Hewes reels than with the spring clips most other brands use. The Hewes reels are a lot more expensive, but I was able to find used ones on the auction site for about half of new retail prices.

I also got some Kindermann reels that came with a tank I wanted. Haven't tried them yet, but they look almost as good as the Hewes - but have a single peg to impale the film rather than the two hooks used by Hewes.

The reason all this is important is because you don't want to start loading the reel with the film at an angle or it will soon buckle. Easy to get started wrong with the spring clips. By notching into the sprocket holes, the Hewes reels are somewhat self-aligning. (remember, this all done by feel in total darkness)

Since 120 film lacks sprocket holes, Hewes 120 reels use spring clips like everybody else. So, whille they are obviously more robust and very nicely made, the Hewes 120 reels have less of an advantage over their competition.

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, I've had years of good success with 35mm reels that are neither the Hewes reels with the hooks or the single peg reels.
The ones I like simply have a wire "C" around a slot that the film goes into, with a straight edge that you bend the film against. The crimp that forms is straight and holds the film in place.
These Simmons Omega ones work that way:

 

[AgX]

Most people start with Paterson tanks and reels.

Is that so?

 

[mshchem]

Here's my vote $28.50 . Paterson 2 reel tank. Comes with 2 adjustable reels, can process 2 35mm films or 1 120.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/886586-REG/Paterson_Universal_Tank_with_Two.html

A lot of schools use these. You can buy a bigger tank later on that will hold more reels. I've used these tanks for black and white and even color with a water bath.

The local community college here teaches with the AP reels as Matt has mentioned, I grew up with Paterson, easy. The AP reels give you an advantage in starting the film onto the reel, especially if you are new to this. I would try the Paterson, and get a decent thermometer. I would pay very careful attention to choosing a thermometer. Dial thermometers are popular but need to be checked for proper calibration from time to time . Only one dial thermometer, that's a Weston, model 4135, comes calibrated has a mirror for parallax correction. B&H sell for 45 bucks.
Still should find a decent glass thermometer to double check.

Consistency is everything, in development. Follow the instructions for your film and developer.
Best Regards Mike

 

[mshchem]

Adorama has the Weston 2265 it has a smaller diameter dial than the 4135. The 2265 is 10 bucks cheaper. The bigger dial is easier to read, but the smaller diameter dial works fine and is less likely to tip over.

 

[R.Gould]

Probably the best 2 to start with are either AP tanks and reels or Paterson tanks, use a scrap film the practice loading in the light, then load with your eyes closed until it becomes easy

 

[Ian Grant]

I'd suggest Paterson tanks I've been using them for over 50 years and have quite a few. Just make sure to wash the reels well after use. In the past I've also used steel reels but that was mostly with deep tanks, although I had 2 or 3 small stainless steel tanks.

Ian

 

[nsurit]

+1 for Paterson. IMHO easier to get comfortable with than steel. Have used both over the last 50 years or so and now only have Paterson.

 

[AgX]

And the JOBO tank and processor combo is definitely worth considering.

Strange enough quite some people think of Jobo tanks only in combination with a Jobo processor.
(When I started I somehow got a Paterson brochure in hand, but do not remember ever having seen a Paterson tank on the shelf.)

Problem is that just from Jobo alone there are three tank systems and three reel systems on the market. Giving advise thus is hard, more so as there is 35mm film and rollfilm and sheets, all having their peculiarities.

 

[Neal]

Dear ME Super,

Buy this one. Make sure everything is clean and the little ball bearings move properly before loading.

Have fun!

Neal Wydra

 

[bernard_L]

• AP tanks/reels are size-compatible with Paterson, meaning you can mix and match.
• AP tanks have a better sealing (better choice of materials) and do not leak (leak? my Paterson? No way...)
• Paterson reels are IMO slightly easier to load than AP plain reels, those without the wide flange; the other sort of AP reels I have not had the opportunity to test.

 

[jim10219]

I own a stainless (Omega) and 3 Paterson tanks (two Universal 3's and one system 4). They're all pretty good and all suffer from the same issues, though to varying degrees. The stainless tank leaks the most, but is the easiest to load (but that's probably only because it's the one I use the most). The Paterson uses more chemicals (which is the main reason I don't use them that often) but leaks less. The stainless is easier to clean, and in my opinion, a bit more durable. But it's not like the Paterson tanks aren't durable, or that difficult to clean.

To me, the biggest differences are the Paterson can develop 4x5 sheet film (taco method or with a special sheet film holder) and the stainless use less chemicals. Both do what they're supposed to and do it well.

 

[John51]

If you're not doing it already, imo it's good practice to get into the habit of always rewinding 35mm so that the leader is out. Before going onto the reel, the leader needs to be cut off and the two corners trimmed at 45 degrees without cutting into the perforations. Easy peasy in room light, not so easy to do in a changing bag. Plus you have to open the canister.

The plastic reels have an amount of give to them. This allows for jiggling and coaxing when loading and keeping your wrists flexible is the way to go. Persuasion rather than force. Although I've never had a film not load onto a plastic reel, it often feels like I'm winging it. Which is what jiggling and coaxing is I suppose.

If you go for dilute one shot developers, like HC-110 1:49, then tank capacity doesn't matter much. With HC-110, it is advised to use a minimum of 6mm (bottle strength) per film. That means 300ml of developer and a smaller capacity tank won't save you anything as you'll still be using 300ml.

 

[MattKing]

Before going onto the reel, the leader needs to be cut off and the two corners trimmed at 45 degrees without cutting into the perforations. Easy peasy in room light, not so easy to do in a changing bag. Plus you have to open the canister.

Good advice.
For clipping film corners, nail clippers work really well.

 

[John51]

Good advice.
For clipping film corners, nail clippers work really well.

That's a good tip. Many is the time I've cut into a perforation and had to cut again.

 

[ME Super]

Thanks, all, for your tips. I'm leaning towards the Paterson tank and reels at this point in time, with HC-110 as my developer and Ilford Rapid Fixer for the fix. The tank I'm looking at is the one mshchem linked to. The sad thing is, if I buy the tank/reels, HC-110, rapid fixer, and thermometer, after I develop 6 rolls of B&W negatives, I'll be money ahead over using the lab, and I can almost guarantee I'll still have developer and fixer left after 6 rolls, even if I'm using the HC-110 one-shot!

Admittedly, I don't do much B&W negative, as I prefer slides, so the next move after I get B&W negative down-pat might be to start doing B&W reversal!

 

[MattKing]

That is 2 reel Paterson kit a really good choice. If you think you might start doing more 120 film, or even higher volumes of 135, or a mixture of the two, the slightly larger tank is a good choice, because it permits either two reels set to 120 size or three reels set to 135 size.
This one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40338-REG/Paterson_PTP116_Multi_Reel_3_Tank_ONLY.html
If you get it, get three reels, because even if you are using only one, the other two keep the loaded reel in place at the bottom.

 

[mshchem]

Thanks, all, for your tips. I'm leaning towards the Paterson tank and reels at this point in time, with HC-110 as my developer and Ilford Rapid Fixer for the fix. The tank I'm looking at is the one mshchem linked to. The sad thing is, if I buy the tank/reels, HC-110, rapid fixer, and thermometer, after I develop 6 rolls of B&W negatives, I'll be money ahead over using the lab, and I can almost guarantee I'll still have developer and fixer left after 6 rolls, even if I'm using the HC-110 one-shot!

Admittedly, I don't do much B&W negative, as I prefer slides, so the next move after I get B&W negative down-pat might be to start doing B&W reversal!

Black and white slides, nice! Are you going to be projecting? If you want to really live the mid-20th century experience, you need a Carousel projector and a screen. Craigslist has projectors and screens cheap. Make some Jiffy pop popcorn, get some real sugar glass bottles of Coke, some flexi-straws. Bam you're living the American Dream.
T-Max 100 works perfect for reversal