Whats a Nikon FM worth?

[benjiboy]

In you intend to keep and use the camera and not sell it and if you have the work done you will have an excellent and reliable camera to use for the next twenty or thirty years.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Thats true. But I wouldn't know if I intend to use it for any length of time or not. I haven't shot or developed film in nearly 20 years, and I thought I'd give it a modest 'go' at it to see if i still enjoyed it, or if I even had the time TO enjoy it. At this point I have to decide whether to pay the $30 and pick up the camera, pay the $163 and pick up the camera, or just let them keep the thing for their boneyard.

 

[BobD]

I have a mint black FM (first version) which I don't think has ever been used. I
can't bring myself to use it myself (I have other FMs/FEs to use). I don't think
I'd ever get what I think it's really worth if I sold it.

Incidentally, I think few people know there were two versions (well, minor variations
anyway) of the FM -- and, no, I don't mean the FM2.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Are you talking about the black and chrome versions, or that orange "Lapita" thing....

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

Older(?) version had a shutter release lock.

When I realized mine didn't have one, I felt cheated at the time, though in my model the advance lever does that when flush with the body (and I assume that the one with the coaxial lock didn't).

 

[blockend]

At this point I have to decide whether to pay the $30 and pick up the camera, pay the $163 and pick up the camera, or just let them keep the thing for their boneyard.

Many people say get a CLA as a matter of course but I beg to differ. I have 20 + old SLRs of various makes, manual through matrix and have only had one CLA'd and that was while fixing a separate problem.

The reality is cameras of your Nikon's era are mechanically sound but have ancient metering technology which is a specialist fix and spare parts are from donor bodies. I'm not saying don't have the repair done but it takes your $30 camera into a different league of expense.
My first response to receiving any camera is to check cosmetic condition, that knobs and dials all work correctly and put a film through, then process it in a familiar developer.

If negative density is as expected and nothing squeaks or falls off the camera is fit for purpose. There is no other criterion of accuracy than a good negative. I had five Nikkormats at the last count (I had more but gave some to friends) the forerunner of the FE/FM and the metering works correctly in one, is dubious in another and the rest don't work at all. To fix them all would mean a considerable financial outlay but I use Sunny 16, carry a hand meter or confirm with a second camera body I trust the metering in.
They cost between £20 and £40 with a mint example at £50, a great price for a fine camera and I'm happy to ignore their antique circuitry and appreciate the excellent engineering that delivers the shots.

 

[BobD]

Older(?) version had a shutter release lock.

When I realized mine didn't have one, I felt cheated at the time, though in my model the advance lever does that when flush with the body (and I assume that the one with the coaxial lock didn't).

You're correct but Nikon called it a Shutter Operation Mode Selector. It does lock the shutter release but that is secondary (according to the manual). Its main function is selecting whether the camera is used with or without the motor drive. Evidently it was possible to damage the camera if it wasn't set to the MD position when using a motor. The trouble was that few owners were aware of that and failed to set it correctly so Nikon eliminated it in an updated version.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!!

After hum-drumming about the email all afternoon, and allowing the news to take the wind out of my sails, I decided that I was just going to go and pay the $30, pick up the camera, meter manually, and run some film through the camera. If it worked it worked, if it leaked light, then well... I was out $64 and a roll of film. If later on I decided I wanted to get the FM overhauled, then I knew what it would cost and I could proceed at that point.

Well, I just picked up the camera about 30 mins ago from the repair shop. I paid the $30 inspection fee, and went on my way. I couldn't wait anymore, so at a red light, I lifted the camera, took off the lens cap, moved the advance lever out the 35 degrees and voila... little red LED lights.

I have no idea what the tech did overnight, I dont know if he simply cleaned the battery contacts, or if he reattached some wires inside... but it works.

I'm going to run some B&W film through it this weekend, or as soon as I can get my hands on a few rolls.

 

[fstop]

You're correct but Nikon called it a Shutter Operation Mode Selector. It does lock the shutter release but that is secondary (according to the manual). Its main function is selecting whether the camera is used with or without the motor drive. Evidently it was possible to damage the camera if it wasn't set to the MD position when using a motor. The trouble was that few owners were aware of that and failed to set it correctly so Nikon eliminated it in an updated version.

You can tell by the serial number what it is, 3XXXXX series don't have the shutter lock, 2XXXXX have it.

Sellers on ebay don't realize this and sell the better 3XXXXX for the same price as the 2XXXXX

 

[ChristopherCoy]

You can tell by the serial number what it is, 3XXXXX series don't have the shutter lock, 2XXXXX have it.

Sellers on ebay don't realize this and sell the better 3XXXXX for the same price as the 2XXXXX

Mine has serial 22494420 and I dont see a shutter lock... unless I'm looking at something incorrectly.


ETA: My apologies. I just read the manual, and mine does have the shutter lock thing. Its the dial around the shutter button that has red and black marks.

 

[Someonenameddavid]

Very frequently, in a simple circuit which is what the metering systems of the 70s were, corrosion at contact points was due to the passage of electrons across dissimilar metals. Once, as a favour to a friend, I took apart a Kodak super 8 camera and found some internal corrosion, cleaned it off and restored it to her in a working condition. Probably what happened was the tech opened up the camera and did the same thing to determine the feasibility of repair. After all the repair company wouldn't want to quote on something that was going to be a monster to repair and lose money.
David.
(Nowadays it's a throw-away camera world)

 

[blockend]

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!!

Excellent news. There's more chance of old cameras dying in cupboards and drawers because their owners think a meter repair is too expensive than wearing out because they're being used without a CLA. Cameras require use!

 

[benjiboy]

Many people say get a CLA as a matter of course but I beg to differ. I have 20 + old SLRs of various makes, manual through matrix and have only had one CLA'd and that was while fixing a separate problem.

The reality is cameras of your Nikon's era are mechanically sound but have ancient metering technology which is a specialist fix and spare parts are from donor bodies. I'm not saying don't have the repair done but it takes your $30 camera into a different league of expense.
My first response to receiving any camera is to check cosmetic condition, that knobs and dials all work correctly and put a film through, then process it in a familiar developer.


If negative density is as expected and nothing squeaks or falls off the camera is fit for purpose. There is no other criterion of accuracy than a good negative. I had five Nikkormats at the last count (I had more but gave some to friends) the forerunner of the FE/FM and the metering works correctly in one, is dubious in another and the rest don't work at all. To fix them all would mean a considerable financial outlay but I use Sunny 16, carry a hand meter or confirm with a second camera body I trust the metering in.
They cost between £20 and £40 with a mint example at £50, a great price for a fine camera and I'm happy to ignore their antique circuitry and appreciate the excellent engineering that delivers the shots.[/QUOTE

This philosophy is like having several second hand cars that the syncro has gone on the gearboxes you have to double de clutch on every time you need to change gear and you have to start every time with a crank handle, and although I always carry a hand held meter one of the joys of 35mm SLR photography is the spontaneity which for some types of shots is essential.
I know it's "different strokes for different folks", but early in my working life I was trained as an engineer, and I would rather have a lot fewer cameras that have been properly maintained that are reliable than many that have faults

 

[Russ - SVP]

My origianl FM (with film advance lock and metering mechanism) still performs likne new. And I've had and used it since the mid 70's. Great, reliable camera.

 

[Pumalite]

My FM is worth a lot to me. Never a CLA. Never failed.

 

[68degrees]

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!!

After hum-drumming about the email all afternoon, and allowing the news to take the wind out of my sails, I decided that I was just going to go and pay the $30, pick up the camera, meter manually, and run some film through the camera. If it worked it worked, if it leaked light, then well... I was out $64 and a roll of film. If later on I decided I wanted to get the FM overhauled, then I knew what it would cost and I could proceed at that point.

Well, I just picked up the camera about 30 mins ago from the repair shop. I paid the $30 inspection fee, and went on my way. I couldn't wait anymore, so at a red light, I lifted the camera, took off the lens cap, moved the advance lever out the 35 degrees and voila... little red LED lights.

I have no idea what the tech did overnight, I dont know if he simply cleaned the battery contacts, or if he reattached some wires inside... but it works.

I'm going to run some B&W film through it this weekend, or as soon as I can get my hands on a few rolls.

probly just cleaned the contacts and wouldnt have done anything else to it if you paid 160 except maybe detail it.

 

[BradS]

probly just cleaned the contacts and wouldnt have done anything else to it if you paid 160 except maybe detail it.

I wonder what motivated you to revive a seven year old thread just to shit on an un-named repair tech?

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I wonder what motivated you to revive a seven year old thread just to shit on an un-named repair tech?

Ignorance and no self respect.

 

[68degrees]

It felt good to see it turn out good for the guy who was excited about his FM after the repair guy was going to rip him off for 160 bucks. Happens all the time, why dont you stick up for one of your own instead of the many unscrupulous sharks in the camera repair/flipping business. Unless of course you are one of them. Thats the only reason I can think of that caused such an emotional reaction in you. Example. My gf computer wont boot, she takes it to the repair shop. The guy does a look see and says it will be 200 bucks pick it up Wed. She brings it to me in tears, I boot into the menu and select boot from last known good boot config and its fine now. Why I reply to the thread, because its still relevant. Dont get ripped off thats why I replied. No other reason. If your business model is threatened by that too bad. Police your own. Like I said, Im just happy it worked out for the guy it was a great ending, and good karma for a good person. What motivated you to reply to my post? Oh wait, we already know. What else could it be?

 

[CMoore]

I wonder what motivated you to revive a seven year old thread just to shit on an un-named repair tech?

What i always wonder is.......why do guys reply as though the OP was asked 8 Hours ago and not 8 Years ago.?
Somebody, in May of 2010 wants to know a good lab to send his HP5 to, and some guy will answer..."The Darkroom in Southern California".....as if the original poster is Still Waiting to read the response.

 

[MattKing]

What i always wonder is.......why do guys reply as though the OP was asked 8 Hours ago and not 8 Years ago.?

There has been a distinct uptick in these "old dead thread revivals" since the "Similar Threads" functionality was added at the bottom of the screen.
Also a lot of people reviving these threads appear to have found them from outside the site, using something like a Google search. When you discover a thread that way, the age of the thread isn't as easy to notice as some other characteristics.
In addition, I think a fairly large percentage of people are accessing the site through their cel phones, and on those relatively tiny screens the age of the thread isn't as easy to see.

 

[CMoore]

No doubt that happens Some Times.....
I guess what i am wondering is, if you do not read a question, directly from The Current Forum, a person would "Know" that it could be several months to several years old..... At least i think they would...
If you know what i mean.?
I am not talking about unknowingly responding to an old post after 5 other people have done so, and you simply assume it is current.....but being the first guy to respond to something from a Search, or that "Similar" area you have mentioned.
In the scheme of things, No big deal i suppose.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

There has been a distinct uptick in these "old dead thread revivals" since the "Similar Threads" functionality was added at the bottom of the screen.
Also a lot of people reviving these threads appear to have found them from outside the site, using something like a Google search. When you discover a thread that way, the age of the thread isn't as easy to notice as some other characteristics.
In addition, I think a fairly large percentage of people are accessing the site through their cel phones, and on those relatively tiny screens the age of the thread isn't as easy to see.

Long ago I suggested that whenever the last response to a thread is a year or more in the past, the background color for it should be yellow (like old paper), to indicate the thread is old.

I saw this thread pop up among current threads and, having never seen it back in 2010, I read it from the beginning and was tempted to reply, not noticing the date until it was pointed out.

 

[68degrees]

I never understood why it bothers some folks so much when old threads are replied to. As if somehow where a good lab is to develop film is somehow no longer relevant. or the excitement of finding a Nikon FM and getting it working again is old irrelevant news. Think of a thread as something much bigger than the OP themselves. Once its on the internet many people can relate to it and it transcends time because even though its old its still new and relevant to someone and somewhere somebody is looking for the same answer to the same question. So it is still relevant even though the OP may be dead for many years already. Thats one of the things I love about the power of the internet is that it can pause time like a room full of people and its frozen and then someone years in the future comes into the room and everybody picks it up where it was left off as if no time had passed at all. Especially now that the internet has been around for a good chunk of time. Ive googled recently and found web pages conversations and dialogue from 1998. Its wild. ... and scary in a way.... but i digress. happy thoughts happy thoughts.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hey guys. Just registered. I shot film in the 90's in high school, quit shooting all together, then came back to digital a few years ago.

I have an interest in shooting film again, and just won an auction on ebay for an FM. The auction ended at $34, which I am totally happy with, but I was wondering what these cameras typically go for in good condition.

One photog said excellent condition models go for $100-$150. Is this accurate info?

Looking forward to checking out the site. Thanks for any info!

your numbers are about right; there are plenty of FMs around; they sold like hotcakes but, it's hard to find them in excellent condition because, most were used as workhorses, which they are; very robust camera;Iown three; all from the late 70s and all still working fine.