What's a good tape for bulk loading?

[Trey]

I'm coming to the end of a 100' roll of masking tape I bought for the purpose a few years ago and I'd like to find something better. This particular tape leaves a sticky residue and was never very well suited to the purpose, TBH.

What tape are bulk loaders here using? I can't remember what we used at the studio I worked at back in the film days.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've only ever used masking tape. No sticky residue. Don't buy the crap from the dollar store, though.

 

[MattKing]

I use masking tape as well.
Where are you encountering the residue? The way I use it, most of the adhesive is in contact with the part of the film that gets discarded.

 

[wjlapier]

I used blue masking tape. No residue here.

 

[pthornto]

I splurged on the 3M brand blue masking tape. Holds the film great and comes off the film and spindle of the cassette without residue.

 

[koraks]

Yeah, decent quality masking tape. I prefer the white/tan paper stuff, from a decent brand. The glue on the really cheap brands is poor.

 

[Buzz-01]

What about kapton tape? I've only ever "bulk rolled" one roll to make my own redscale film, but for me it worked great!
No sticky residue when removed and it holds really well.

 

[Anon Ymous]

What about kapton tape? I've only ever "bulk rolled" one roll to make my own redscale film, but for me it worked great!
No sticky residue when removed and it holds really well.

The average user has no idea what kapton tape is and won't find it as easily as masking tape. Other than that, it might actually be perfectly fine.

 

[Buzz-01]

That's true, I've known about it because of my background as an electronics engineer.
It is also used extensively by people using 3D printers and in these days where 3D printers find their ways to more and more homes, kapton tape might be quite easily available to the common people (at least it is here in Europe), so I thought it would make sense to bring it up!

Since Kapton is a brand name I think, you might be able to find it as "Polyimide tape".

 

[Agulliver]

A while back I fancied I would try making 16mm cine films and got myself some supplies including 16mm splicing tape. I ended up not pursuing this line but I still use the 16mm splicing tape for my bulk 35mm roles.

 

[DeletedAcct1]

I'm coming to the end of a 100' roll of masking tape I bought for the purpose a few years ago and I'd like to find something better. This particular tape leaves a sticky residue and was never very well suited to the purpose, TBH.

What tape are bulk loaders here using? I can't remember what we used at the studio I worked at back in the film days.

I have a 3M red-pinkish tape core series 2-1300 that leaves no residue

 

[Pentode]

I use clear Scotch tape. I believe its official name is "Gloss Finish Transparent Tape".
It's thin and strong and cheap. I don't have trouble with residue.

 

[titrisol]

I have used what I had at hand, from scotch tape to masking tape to splicing tape.
IMHO blue or green painter's tape comes off clean, and has enough hold for the purpose, unless your camera has the pull of Hercules.

 

[relistan]

I just use Scotch tape, taped both sides. To be clear, I am using recycled spools from a lab. When I have used Kalt or Kodak spools intended for the purpose, I have used masking tape also.

 

[hoojammyflip]

Alternatively, instead of taping the film, make use of old Ilford plastic 35mm spools, which have a central hook. Just cut the end of the film to create a central tab of film which can be inserted into the spool. Make a hole in the tab for the hook to catch, using a hole punch.

 

[DWThomas]

I use the 3M blue tape. I apply it such that it wraps around the spool and makes a short section of glue-to-glue contact next to the spool and the ends attach to both sides of the film. I did have problems on a hot day with using a single-sided application. There are some "artists' tapes" that might be suitable candidates, but I don't do enough bulk loading to worry about it.

 

[AgX]

Alternatively, instead of taping the film, make use of old Ilford plastic 35mm spools, which have a central hook. Just cut the end of the film to create a central tab of film which can be inserted into the spool. Make a hole in the tab for the hook to catch, using a hole punch.

How do you achieve cutting in the dark free-handedly a centrally positioned tap and get a central hole into it?

The only way I see is to shape the tab very narrow and the hole quite big, to yield leeway.

(I got a dedicated punch to make such tab, but still would find it difficult at least to get the hole right. More so in a changing bag...)

 

[koraks]

Don't know how you bulk load AgX, but the way I do it is with a bulk loader where a leader always sticks out of the loader which can be manipulated in normal light.

 

[Wallendo]

I use brown wrapping tape. We have always called this masking tape, but when looking on Amazon it is generally called wrapping tape. I generally tear the tape off the film spool without removing the tape. I have never had any development issues with a small amount of tape on the film (this part is generally discarded after development anyway. I generally leave the tape on since I use a changing bag. Removing the tape completely has on at least one occasion caused a piece of tape to adhere to the roll and ruin a frame.

 

[Anon Ymous]

Don't know how you bulk load AgX, but the way I do it is with a bulk loader where a leader always sticks out of the loader which can be manipulated in normal light.

So do I, although sometimes I do it in the dark, in order to save the last frame from being exposed. In this case, I cut a reasonable length of tape beforehand and roll it around the spindle and the film. It's a bit awkward, so I don't always do so. Lately I bought one of those fancy Konica loaders (same as AP bobinquick), which don't fog the last frame. Overall, they're excellent and fool proof, unlike some Watson loaders.

 

[eli griggs]

I llike 3M tapes, the narrow blue painters tape, or #2020.

Frog Tape, the green stuff will work well too.

Brown, gummed tape, sometimes called "Butcher's Tape, will also work, cut down, just don't over-wet it when you lick it to activate the gum, and give it a couple of seconds to 'dry' well enough to load your cassettes.

Scotch tape will often split/crack/tear when you try to remove it, and leave a sticky residue that'll collect skin cells, dust and require a solvent to remove.

Dito for any other polymer packing tape, brown or clear.

 

[spark]

White polyethylene cleanroom tape is very good, strong with a stable and good adhesive. But, it’s harder to find and costs twice as much as the blue Scotch masking tape.

 

[Griffin Miller]

I use gaff tape. It's easy to cut/tear, won't leave residue, and it's strong enough to use in all my cameras with auto winders without yanking the film from the tape.

 

[eli griggs]

One thing the OP and others might try, is leaving the taped back end of their pre-loaded cassettes, long and the tongue long enough for a three frame start, and when bulk loading, using the spools and tongues, with a good tape, as the start and end of each loaded unit.

This way you'll likely get a couple extra short roles each 100' bulk roll.

I know there are those here that'll feel that's below their dignity, or Life's too short for these little speed bumps, but with quality films having 25-30% yearly rises, ever saved frame may be your masterpiece.

IMO.

B Well, Be Happy.

 

[Disconnekt]

Ive used the Power Plus masking tape fom the 99cent store for the two 100' rolls of b&w film and it's worked fine cor me.
Only once did it ever tear at the end of a roll, but that was due to me not using enough tape at he end of the roll.