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what waS your last photography related purchase?

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I sold a bunch of stuff in preparation for when I finished post-production on my current book in anticipation of rewarding myself with....
Zeiss Superachromat 250 CF in mint condition and a very late serial number.

Using it with my Blad 500 c/m and 907x 50c. Pretty amazing rendering digitally, even with the Musar 2x.
 
Sekonic Flashmate L-308 X-U meter
Grip for L-308 meter
 
I like it! I'm going to get a different color though so we don't get them mixed up. lol

Good idea, I hate when that happens.
 
Bought what the seller described as a Rolleiflex 2.8F but turned to be a 3.5F for $800. Conditions was so so, working lightmeter, speed sounded ok but decided to return it. Packing camera at the moment.
 
Stearman Press SP-8x10 daylight developing tray.
 
Stearman Press SP-8x10 daylight developing tray.

Congratulations!
I have two, and have had great results from them.
Helpful hints:
1) All parts must be 100% perfectly dry before loading film.
2) Presoak. Yes, really. Don't skip this step.
3) Don't forget to put the baffles in place before loading film. (Don't ask me how I know this... 😩)
 
I came across a deal for a Jobo Autolab ATL 3 that was too good to pass up. Though I may need a bigger house.
 
Congratulations!
I have two, and have had great results from them.
Helpful hints:
1) All parts must be 100% perfectly dry before loading film.
2) Presoak. Yes, really. Don't skip this step.
3) Don't forget to put the baffles in place before loading film. (Don't ask me how I know this... 😩)

All good tips; Thanks!
 
A nice and clean looking used Hasselblad A12 film back, mismatching parts, but after a test (*) it seems to work decently, I payed only €75.- for it...
I wonder why Hasselblad is so strict about this matching, I know it's about film flatness, but so severe?
Perhaps I was just lucky.

On Hasselblad Historical there is even a mismatch register...

(*) I did the test with the Sonnar 250mm, full open aperture, mounted on a tripod, on a roughly composed little scene, on slow film (I don't like shooting brick walls).
 
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Even though it was last month, I got a JJC Film Cutter to make cutting my 35mm & 620 (ok well, respooled 120 onto 620 spools) film easier, using scissors were always a pain to use for me when cutting 35mm film.

Do they work well? I always considered buying one but scared of the film going in getting scratched
 
120 film. Kentmere 100 and Catlabs 320 Pro. Going to test out Catlabs.

CatLabs is WONDERFUL! Omer is knowledgeable, completely and dependably honest, and know so much about so many film-related topics that it's almost scary. There has been only one occasion when he had to look up an answer (I wanted to know who could build a Graflok back for my Zone VI 4x5). When I found Mr. Richard Ritter as the actual builder of my camera, I contacted him, he made a wonderful Graflok back, and he is still making large-format cameras last time I checked. Omer said, "Oh, that's right!"
CatLabs is my almost-only film supplier (except for Adorama and B&H).
 
I came across a deal for a Jobo Autolab ATL 3 that was too good to pass up. Though I may need a bigger house.
I'm getting by with a Mary Poppins Carpet Bag but would love to upgrade to a Looney-Tunes Black Hole. I saw one character pull an entire car out of one of those.

I also became a Seller so I can put some of the stuff BACK!
 
Do they work well? I always considered buying one but scared of the film going in getting scratched

Haven't really tried it yet, havent gone out to photograph much, plus where I live it's been around 95°f for the last couple months.

I did try cutting a dud roll of 120 film & didnt notice any scratches on the parts of film I cut.
 
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