what waS your last photography related purchase?

[Donald Qualls]

Just put in an order for a Sekor C 50mm f/4.5 lens for my RB67. Significant cosmetic wear, but certified 100% functional; comes with both caps. Now when I shoot on 35mm film, I'll get a real panoramic effect.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Just put in an order for a Sekor C 50mm f/4.5 lens for my RB67. Significant cosmetic wear, but certified 100% functional; comes with both caps. Now when I shoot on 35mm film, I'll get a real panoramic effect.

That's my go to lens when I'm out with the RB. Is there a 35mm magazine for the RB? Or do you have to load film into a regular holder?

 

[Donald Qualls]

That's my go to lens when I'm out with the RB. Is there a 35mm magazine for the RB? Or do you have to load film into a regular holder?

I have 35mm-to-120 adapters and a 220 back with the counter drive roller bound to the turn around roller so the counter will work as it should. Once I fully develop the technique, I expect I'll splice a leader on the film, long enough to avoid wasting 2-3 70mm wide frames for loading -- and I'm still trying to figure out a practical way to put a tail on commercially loaded film, so I can wind into a cassette and be able to change film in the field (since even with a leader I'll only get 17-18 exposures on a 36 exposure roll). I do carry a changing bag, so it's not impossible, but it'd be easier not to need the bag.

The camera's a lot heavier than an Xpan, but it doesn't have electronics that may fail without warning, needs no battery, and I can also shoot the original 120 with it, 6x7, 6x6 (in a Graflex 22 back) and 6x4.5. Not to mention that at present I've got about $4000 less into it than I would for an Xpan with 90mm and 45mm lenses...

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have 35mm-to-120 adapters and a 220 back with the counter drive roller bound to the turn around roller so the counter will work as it should. Once I fully develop the technique, I expect I'll splice a leader on the film, long enough to avoid wasting 2-3 70mm wide frames for loading -- and I'm still trying to figure out a practical way to put a tail on commercially loaded film, so I can wind into a cassette and be able to change film in the field (since even with a leader I'll only get 17-18 exposures on a 36 exposure roll). I do carry a changing bag, so it's not impossible, but it'd be easier not to need the bag.

The camera's a lot heavier than an Xpan, but it doesn't have electronics that may fail without warning, needs no battery, and I can also shoot the original 120 with it, 6x7, 6x6 (in a Graflex 22 back) and 6x4.5. Not to mention that at present I've got about $4000 less into it than I would for an Xpan with 90mm and 45mm lenses...

Found this video...

 

[Donald Qualls]

@Andrew O'Neill Yep, I'm familiar with the technique, and at least 3-4 ways to put a leader on the film and minimize waste. The part I'm still working on is being able to unload in daylight.

 

[sruddy]

Ultramarine Blue seamless background paper, Ilford fixer and paper developer.

 

[fdonadio]

The part I'm still working on is being able to unload in daylight.

The idea that comes to mind first is to have another 135 cassette in the take-up spool. You could have the leader loaded in this take-up spool, so it would also make it easy to load film. You’d need a pair of good adapters, so as to keep the alignment.

 

[wyofilm]

UV LED light bars to make a UV exposure box for Pt/Pd.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The idea that comes to mind first is to have another 135 cassette in the take-up spool. You could have the leader loaded in this take-up spool, so it would also make it easy to load film. You’d need a pair of good adapters, so as to keep the alignment.

Yep, I have that -- but there's still the issue of having at least the last frame still in transit when the film comes taut. With commercial film, the only option that comes to mind is to open the cassette in the dark, respool the film, splice on a tail long enough to reach from cassette to cassette, wind back onto the original spool, and install that in a bulk load cassette shell (at least I don't have to worry about DX coding).

For now, I'll set up 2-cassette loads with leader, and take a changing bag. Not too much issue with shooting more than 18 in a day, anyway...

 

[markjwyatt]

Yep, I have that -- but there's still the issue of having at least the last frame still in transit when the film comes taut. With commercial film, the only option that comes to mind is to open the cassette in the dark, respool the film, splice on a tail long enough to reach from cassette to cassette, wind back onto the original spool, and install that in a bulk load cassette shell (at least I don't have to worry about DX coding).

For now, I'll set up 2-cassette loads with leader, and take a changing bag. Not too much issue with shooting more than 18 in a day, anyway...

The smart folks at Ihagee figured this out back when two cannisters/cassettes were the in thing. They put a film cutter inside the the Exakta (not sure when it started, but my VX has it) right next to the opening on the take-up cannister.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yep, I've seen those -- I always heard they existed for the same reason as "robbing the pack" for pack film, so you could process the exposed film, and keep what was still unused for another time.

 

[logan2z]

Just picked up another Nikon FT3 after returning the first one I bought. Scheduled to arrive today.

 

[mshchem]

I bought some old stainless stuff. A 2 gallon deep tank and a rack with gas distribution plenum attached. I have a mountain of old school tanks. Very rarely use since I have Jobo equipment.

 

[wyofilm]

I have two ball heads, one from Slik, the other from Benro. I am having troubling locking down the Slik ball head sufficiently (about seven years old) and the relative newcomer Benro. On the Benro I sheared the threaded stud holding the tensioning knob *by hand*. I would like to think that it is superhuman strength that broke it, but I'm guessing that it was made from crappy pot metals.

So ... I went another (and expensive route) and bought a leveling head and a panorama head from Acratech as a substitute for the ball heads. Got to try it out earlier this week. Man! it is nice and a joy to use. The pair together is wonderfully light.

 

[Wayne]

100 sheets of Crystal Archive Matte and 100 of gloss, and 10 liters Kodak Ektacolor RA blix.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Linseed oil. It's photography related if you need it to thin down oil paint for Gum Oils.

 

[Roger Thoms]

Another tripod case from Stone Photo Gear.

Roger

 

[GLS]

Another box of Velvia 50 4x5.

 

[Ernst-Jan]

Mamiya RB67 kit with 50 65 and 90mm

 

[Donald Qualls]

Mamiya RB67 kit with 50 65 and 90mm

Nice! My RB is my first choice for "going out to shoot film" -- too heavy for daily carry, but that's okay, it's not a snapshooter anyway.

 

[Ernst-Jan]

Nice! My RB is my first choice for "going out to shoot film" -- too heavy for daily carry, but that's okay, it's not a snapshooter anyway.

I am still young, so that's no problem for me I go out regularly with a C330 and M645 and some lenses.

 

[Kyle M.]

A set of Nikon F bellows Type II and BR-2 reversing ring. Also a bottle of HC-110 and eight 36 exposure rolls of Tri-X.

 

[mshchem]

35mm Summicron ASPH, used, 18 years old, very nice condition. Don't tell my wife

 

[Donald Qualls]

I am still young, so that's no problem for me I go out regularly with a C330 and M645 and some lenses.

Yeah, I get out with mine, I just don't try to carry it every day. I leave that for 35mm rangefinders and MF folders.

 

[darkosaric]

I got myself Nokton 40mm SC f1.4 for my CL, from Japan, for almost half of the European price.

18 years old

That is 18 year young, that is nothing for Summicron . Congrats for the best 35mm lens ever.