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Donald Qualls

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I bought a four foot length of 12 inch wide shelf stock and two more brackets to add a shelf in my darkroom -- now all my liquid concentrates and mixed chemicals are on the new shelf and more out of the way.
 

madsox

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A new-to-me Pentax KX. It's scheduled to arrive tomorrow, if FedEx can be believed. It joins my K1000, MX, ME Super and LX in the lineup. I've just started shooting again after years of digital, and I'm getting the urge to collect more and more Pentaxes (I've always had a soft spot for them).

And it did arrive - meter doesn't work, but mechanically everything else is excellent. Time to learn about light meter repair!
 

Pitotshock

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In good cosmetic and good working order, just needed light seals on back door, Nikon FM. Was free for whoever came and picked it up on FB marketplace. I liked the ad and waited a couple of weeks for someone else to take it. But after no-one came along, I had to save it, I mean how could you leave it there at that price...
 

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choiliefan

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I picked up an Accura film-plane focusing groundglass for 35mm cameras of the bay.
Supposed to be a good way to calibrate a rangefinder.
1680716908789.png
 

choiliefan

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Also a pair of ancient 6" and 7" Goerz Dagor lenses. The 6's Wollensak shutter works well but the 7's Goerz shutter is rusty and locked up tight. Coincidently the Wolly shutter fits the cells of a 19" Process Wolly I picked up last month.
1680717404519.png
 

eli griggs

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A 12" Incra two planes ('L' shaped flat and edge) rule for precision marking boards for 5" x 7" wooden pinhole camera build.
 

Roger Thoms

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Re-upped my membership and locker rental at Harvey Milk Photo Center here in San Francisco. Nice that San Francisco Recreation and Parks still maintain a public darkroom.

Also a bunch of goodies for my recently purchased Fletcher 2100 mat cutter. Bearings and bushings for the head in case I need to rebuild it in the future, new scale for the squaring arm so I can calibrate it properly, the accessory spring attachments for the clamping arm, a set of the gauges for calibrating the mat guide, new 3M Bump-on bumpers for the bottom of the mat cutter, and a box of stainless steel under cut flathead machine screws to replace a few that are buggered up. Got to get the 2100 outfitted. 🙂

Roger
 

Roger Thoms

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Off topic a bit, but is that rug a Karastan? We have one with similar patterns (except circular patterns more elongated- elephants feet we were told by the rug cleaner). Karastan made machine woven wool rugs in Boston. They no longer use wool (synthetic fibers only), but still make rugs.

Hey my apologies for the delayed response. I spoke with my wife and she has no idea what kind of rug it is. She bought at a rug auction around 1980 and just doesn’t remember.

Roger
 

xkaes

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Mini Diana with flash & manual for $9 at GOODWILL. It hasn't arrived yet. I hope it works!

minidiana.jpg
 

Roger Thoms

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A 12" Incra two planes ('L' shaped flat and edge) rule for precision marking boards for 5" x 7" wooden pinhole camera build.

The Incra stuff is nice. Is this camera build in anticipation of Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day? It’s coming up soon, last Sunday of April. I’m not building a camera this year but I have been out shooting pinhole to get warmed up.

Roger
 

eli griggs

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The Incra stuff is nice. Is this camera build in anticipation of Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day? It’s coming up soon, last Sunday of April. I’m not building a camera this year but I have been out shooting pinhole to get warmed up.

Roger

No, there is no particular event waiting for this camera, just my being able to cut and assemble the design, based on a three, 25mm sections pinhole body, with a rotating three pinhole disk, keyed for 25mm, 50mm and 75mm.

I want to be able to make paper negatives that are big enough to make good, viewable images of.

I just have the one holder at the moment and todays film is priced too dear to play around with.

The design, depending which coverage you desire, have the front section as the primary section, with the turret holed disk, and the backs and forward light proof fits are designed to hold a 5" x 7" holder, this my waiting for more precise, repeatable measuring rules... the Incra rules.

Even the compass rule will be handy for marking out angled of view both Horizontals and Verticals.

I have some Artic Birch boards to work out the final design/fittings/markings with and then I can move on to hardwoods, like very well aged quarter sewn White Oak, Ash or Cherry, which I put back years ago.

Maybe I'll have this built, proofed, and constructed in final form by next year's event I hope so.
 

Kino

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I picked up an Accura film-plane focusing groundglass for 35mm cameras of the bay.
Supposed to be a good way to calibrate a rangefinder.

I have one and was surprised at how many older rangefinder cameras it would not fit due to film plane aperture aspect ratio/size differences.

You can also use it in some old mechanical SLR if you are VERY careful and lock the shutter open on "B", provided the curtain edge is well clear of the film plane aperture.
 

choiliefan

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Great point about the shutter curtain.
I haven't tried it out yet and didn't get instructions but presumed these screws are for tweaking it to fit. Is yours the same design?
Here is another pic from the auction:
1680784358869.png
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Just arrived today: a 50 sheet box of 8x10 Arista.EDU Ultra 200.

I've always wanted to try this stuff. Any idea about it's spectral response? Recently, I've been into films that lean into the reds more. Thanks!
 

TheFlyingCamera

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I've always wanted to try this stuff. Any idea about it's spectral response? Recently, I've been into films that lean into the reds more. Thanks!

It's actually an ortho-pan (it is red sensitive, but not much. Using red filters with it is not recommended - you'll be adding 3+ stops even with a Red 25). It also has some of the worst reciprocity failure of any major film out there. As in exposures beyond say 10 seconds are not recommended. A metered 10 seconds after compensation is around 10 minutes. and it gets much much worse from there. Oh, and the actual speed of the film is 100 not 200.

So why do I use it? I use it mostly for studio portraits or full daylight exposures. I do platinum/palladium printing with it, and it is beautiful for that. It builds density very quickly (recommended processing time is 7 minutes in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100) and the density curve has a very long straight line. That makes it easy to get all the contrast you need for many alt processes.
 

aparat

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It's actually an ortho-pan (it is red sensitive, but not much. Using red filters with it is not recommended - you'll be adding 3+ stops even with a Red 25). It also has some of the worst reciprocity failure of any major film out there. As in exposures beyond say 10 seconds are not recommended. A metered 10 seconds after compensation is around 10 minutes. and it gets much much worse from there. Oh, and the actual speed of the film is 100 not 200.

So why do I use it? I use it mostly for studio portraits or full daylight exposures. I do platinum/palladium printing with it, and it is beautiful for that. It builds density very quickly (recommended processing time is 7 minutes in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100) and the density curve has a very long straight line. That makes it easy to get all the contrast you need for many alt processes.

I do not have nearly as much experience with Fomapan 200 as you do, but, for what it's worth, here are my results with replenished XTOL. I think XTOL-R is a good choice for this film, as it can easily produce a range of contrast, without it running away too easily.
fomapan200.png
 

Donald Qualls

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Forgot to post here, a few days ago I ordered four packets of RBT stereo slide mounts for my Stereo Realist viewer -- two packs of 5p Stereo Realist format (to use with my Stereo Graphic) and two packs of half frame (for my Discovery Channel stereo camera). Reminded because my mailbox center just texted me to say they're here...
 

Andrew O'Neill

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It's actually an ortho-pan (it is red sensitive, but not much. Using red filters with it is not recommended - you'll be adding 3+ stops even with a Red 25). It also has some of the worst reciprocity failure of any major film out there. As in exposures beyond say 10 seconds are not recommended. A metered 10 seconds after compensation is around 10 minutes. and it gets much much worse from there. Oh, and the actual speed of the film is 100 not 200.

So why do I use it? I use it mostly for studio portraits or full daylight exposures. I do platinum/palladium printing with it, and it is beautiful for that. It builds density very quickly (recommended processing time is 7 minutes in Pyrocat HD 1:1:100) and the density curve has a very long straight line. That makes it easy to get all the contrast you need for many alt processes.

Thank you for they information! Appreciate it!
 
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