TheFlyingCamera
Membership Council
2" 8x10 print storage boxes, and 75 sheets of 8x10 Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag paper.
what waS your last photography related purchase?
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A couple weird Saunders singLsize easels that I don't have, to go with the dozen I already have.
25 sheets of 8x10 film (Catlabs 80) for the film holder I bought. Maybe a camera soon.
I don't have any particular love for the film, but it was the cheapest up front cost. Mostly because Foma/Arista 100 is only available in 50 sheet boxes. Per sheet its cheaper, but I'm outlaying so much on film holder, lens, camera, dev tank, everything else to shoot 8x10, I need to conserver where I can for the moment.
Oh, and a bottle of new HC-110. I was developing almost exclusivly with Xtol for a few years, but the year of COVID was so busy for me, I didn't shoot a single shot and all the mixed up Xtol aged out. Since ~3 months ago, with my intermittent shooting, I've been developing everything in HC-110 since I mix it up as needed. I'll probably stick with that until I'm confident that I'll be able to consistantly have film to develop.
I don't have any particular love for the film, but it was the cheapest up front cost. Mostly because Foma/Arista 100 is only available in 50 sheet boxes. Per sheet its cheaper, but I'm outlaying so much on film holder, lens, camera, dev tank, everything else to shoot 8x10, I need to conserver where I can for the moment.
Oh, and a bottle of new HC-110. I was developing almost exclusivly with Xtol for a few years, but the year of COVID was so busy for me, I didn't shoot a single shot and all the mixed up Xtol aged out. Since ~3 months ago, with my intermittent shooting, I've been developing everything in HC-110 since I mix it up as needed. I'll probably stick with that until I'm confident that I'll be able to consistantly have film to develop.
I've shot quite a bit of Catlabs in 120 and I'm enjoying the results so far-a nice robust old school tonality. I look forward to trying it with a tanning and staining developer like PMK rather than ID11. It can take a while to get into the look of a film though.
An Elonchrom flash pack and 7 heads, up to 2000W 
, 3 of the heads are stand alone 500W units Powerful, but hey with 10x8 needed and the whole package was a bargain.
Ian
, 3 of the heads are stand alone 500W units Powerful, but hey with 10x8 needed and the whole package was a bargain.Ian
a second 8x10 film holder.
A Gibellini P810GP camera from a member here.
A Gibellini P810GP camera from a member here.
Just minutes ago, I bought a Graphic View II including 270 mm f/5.6 Rotelon (in Synchro Compur that needs cleaning) and five film holders. This will replace my first-gen Graphic View, which I'll be offering for sale soon (upgrades included balanced tilts front and rear and Graflok back).
Also a few minutes ago, bought my third Brownie Hawkeye - what's going on??! 
The cheapest so far... getting good at spotting them!
This will make it easier to try the cable release mod, and also take fearless pictures near shore in all kinds of weather.
The cheapest so far... getting good at spotting them!
This will make it easier to try the cable release mod, and also take fearless pictures near shore in all kinds of weather.
So far this month just sorting what I already have 
A 7 head Elinchrom st oef flash units. 5x 500 monoblock heads 2 with no modelling lights sold as not fully working, just needed new bulbs, a 1000 monoblock with no modelling light but the flash works I'd guessit just needs a bulb which is different to the 500's. Then there's a 101 pack with an A2000 head again no modelling liht but needing a new flash tube as well.
With the heads there's a soft box, one stand, and two Calumet wireless transmitters and 4 recievers, which appear to be unsed, Elinchrom heads have built in slave cells anyway. Overall at £400 ($520) it was a great find.
Ian
With the heads there's a soft box, one stand, and two Calumet wireless transmitters and 4 recievers, which appear to be unsed, Elinchrom heads have built in slave cells anyway. Overall at £400 ($520) it was a great find.
Ian
Oddly enough, a few days ago, I placed an order for small diameter metal tube stock and sheet brass. I am making a few take-up spools for a few obscure film sizes. This was (more or less) an engineering and production exercize.
Bob
Bob
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Ground glass from Keith Canham for the 8x10 that I recently broke.
Also a few minutes ago, bought my third Brownie Hawkeye - what's going on??!
The cheapest so far... getting good at spotting them!
I seem to remember the Hawkeye. I think it was my very first camera, when i was but a wee lad. The next camera was a Polaroid Swinger.
Bob
You can easily relive your youth, very easy to run 120 film, often without a minor modification!
Interesting. If you know how to weld (or epoxy?)!
I just found that wire splice crimp (or heat-set?) connectors (laying around my workbench) cut in two equal pieces, make great 116 to 120 adapters. no provision for take up drive, that is still the job of the original spool.
I am looking to make some spools for re-spooling 120. A spool is easy to make. Just an engineering/production excersize.
Bob
Making a 116 or 616 compatible spool for respooling 120 seems like one of the best ways to get some use out of cameras that are otherwise relatively difficult to feed. Brass sheet and tubing, plumbing solder, a propane torch, and some basic shop tools (snips, drill, Dremel, and files). A bottle of blacking solution for the brass wouldn't come amiss.
Recently got my hands on two Nikon F2 camera bodies (one with a working photomic prism!). Got to say tha although I ve had some Nikon cameras and lenses over the years, never really was a Nikon fan.
A working F2 is actually a pretty amazing camera. Getting some use on Rollei 400 RPX and a Nikkor 50 F/1.2. Will check the result.
A working F2 is actually a pretty amazing camera. Getting some use on Rollei 400 RPX and a Nikkor 50 F/1.2. Will check the result.
I am looking at either a Kodak or Ikonta. Just for fun. I will make a jig to hold punched brass, crack a beer, do a little soldering, crack a beer, and tend to my burns. We will see.
Bob
TheFlyingCamera
Membership Council
Two 100-sheet packages of 8.5x11 Fixxons waterproof transparency media for inkjet printers to make digitally enlarged negatives, and a roll of rubylith for masking.
I've gotten more burns picking strings off the nozzle on my 3D printer (which I've had for only three months) than I have in soldering and welding over the past four and a half decades. Not major burns at all, but more little seared spots.
The worst burn I can remember was being barefoot and stepping on a puddle of hot melt adhesive. One must always pay attention. I did not think of the hot nozzle, though. I can well imagine it made you say naughty words of your own invention.
Bob
Nah, it was like picking a drop of pancake batter off the hot griddle, I expected a little hiss, and that's what I got; only later I noticed that spot on my fingertip was thickened and stiff. I've gotten much worse burns from hot glue, and once from a soldering tip -- but that was the only soldering burn I've ever had (and I learned to solder 50+ years ago, at age 8 or 9).
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Maintenance tank for the 3800. Potassium Iodide to make up some FX-1...
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