what waS your last photography related purchase?

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Woman wearing shades.

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Curved Wall

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abruzzi

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I just received a Schneider Tele-Arton 360mm f5.5 in a Copal 3 shutter from another member here. Now I need to send the shutter to Flutot’s Camera Repair to get it all 100%.

I’m kind of new to large format, and have never owned a lens with a Copal 3 shutter—man is it big!
 

wyofilm

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Voigtlander cold shoe mount light meter for my Agfa Isolette II. Have tried it will film, yet.
 

fdonadio

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I’m kind of new to large format, and have never owned a lens with a Copal 3 shutter—man is it big!

I don’t consider myself as and experienced LF shooter. Maybe that’s why I still get impressed when I look at my Fujinar 25cm in a Shanel 5B shutter. :wink:
 

eli griggs

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Today, a beautiful Pentax Spotmatic, perfect with a 50mm F1.4 Super Takumar, a 200mm Vivitar prime, tele-converter and camera body case in good condition.

Though I've been using M42 lenses with my Canon FD cameras, and adapter, I'm very pleased to have such a nice M42 Pentax to take out with it's own line of screwmount lenses, plus others I have to hand.

My only dedicated M42 mount camera, up to now, is a Zenit which down no have quite the nice feel of the Pentax or Canons.
 
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MattKing

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Some half litre glass bottles with the best type of caps!
 

GLS

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Provia 100F 4x5 sheets
More Toyo 4x5 film holders
SP-445 developing tank
Printfile 4x5 storage sleeves & binder
Dentist's X-ray film clips
New ground glass + fresnel for the Linhof spring back
 

Huss

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Hermosa Beach, CA
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Picked up a Zeiss ZF.2 50mm 1.4 Planar off craigslist. Only because it was too cheap to ignore. Apparently it is identical to the Zeiss 50 1.4 that was offered by Contax back when they sold stuff like RTSs? (minus the chip)
 

GRHazelton

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The empty cassette or cartridge for my Minolta 16 arrived yesterday from The Film Photography Project. Sadly it won't fit! Its too tall and prevents closing the cover over the film compartment! So the search continues.... I have no fear of loading a cartridge or of processing the film, but I need a cartridge or two!
 

Donald Qualls

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Last couple days I purchased an Omega darkroom timer that can be set in tenths of a second (not sure of the utility for that precision, but it's also self-resetting and can be run off a foot switch), and a set of 46mm diopters (the +10 is intended to let me use my Pentax 1/21 spot meter as a poor man's densitometer).
 

Donald Qualls

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The empty cassette or cartridge for my Minolta 16 arrived yesterday from The Film Photography Project. Sadly it won't fit! Its too tall and prevents closing the cover over the film compartment! So the search continues.... I have no fear of loading a cartridge or of processing the film, but I need a cartridge or two!

That might be subject to a little troubleshooting, especially if FPP hasn't seen other problems with them. One immediate thought I get is that your cartridge may not be closing completely, due to either a spool or lower section that's a fraction too tall, or interference keeping the chambers from fully seating in the cap -- I'd certainly contact FPP first, but it might be that a little sandpaper would fix your issue.
 

GRHazelton

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That might be subject to a little troubleshooting, especially if FPP hasn't seen other problems with them. One immediate thought I get is that your cartridge may not be closing completely, due to either a spool or lower section that's a fraction too tall, or interference keeping the chambers from fully seating in the cap -- I'd certainly contact FPP first, but it might be that a little sandpaper would fix your issue.
The sandpaper solution has crossed my mind. I've contacted FPP and am awaiting their reply.
 

MattKing

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Last couple days I purchased an Omega darkroom timer that can be set in tenths of a second (not sure of the utility for that precision
If you start using f/stop timing with your enlargements, it will give you the ability to repeatably and easily make 1/3 and 1/6 stop adjustments - with 1/6 stop adjustments being the sort of minimum adjustment that is clearly visible.
Check out the table in Ralph Lambrecht's "Way Beyond Momochrome" - it is invaluable.
If you can't access it, I have both the first edition in print, and the pdf that Ralph has happily shared in the past.
 

Donald Qualls

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@MattKing I'm familiar with f-stop timing, at least in principle -- and in a darkroom, I can set a darkroom color scheme on my phone and use the calculator app to do the logarithmic arithmetic if it's beyond doing in my head (1/2 stop is 1.4x, on exposure time, 1/3 is cube root of 2, which I recall as about 1.16 -- woops, calculator says it's 1.26x, near enough). What I was referring to was the tenth second exposure granularity. No way I can dodge or burn by even halfway accurate fractional stops if my exposures are short enough to need tenths of a second...
 

baachitraka

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There is a table in PDF form from Ralph. It's very nice way to print, gives bit more control (YMMY). If money is not a problem then f-stop timer from RH Designs could be very handy.
 

Donald Qualls

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For me, the main take-away from f-stop timing is that adding three seconds to a 20 second exposure makes little if any sense, and linear tests strips hardly any more -- if you want to darken a print from 20 seconds, you need to add about five seconds, at minimum, to have enough change to see easily, and test strips really need to proceed by no less than 25% extra time per increment for the same reason.

Beyond that, if my exposures are short enough that I need increments smaller than a second, I need to close my enlarger aperture a stop or two or (assuming a color head) dial some neutral density.
 

MattKing

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I understand where you are coming from Donald, but I find that if I'm working with f/stop printing, when I decide to make a change or print a negative a different size it ends up being easier if I'm not approximating exposures to the nearest second for what may be a half dozen or more discrete exposures.
Particularly when dealing with things like a 1/3 stop localized burn on top of an 8 second main exposure.
 

Donald Qualls

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Once I have the timer in hand, I might find I agree with you. In my last darkroom, I used one of the big square Graylab timers, and it worked fine -- but I never had an exposure shorter than about fifteen seconds (I'd stop down to avoid going shorter) and at that time wasn't doing f-stop timing.
 

Donald Qualls

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And here we go again. For the sake of versatility -- that's what I tell myself. I bought a Graflex 22 (the older, knob-wind version) on a 2x3 Graflok plate, which should fit my RB67 in place of the 6x4.5 and 6x7 backs. That'll let the single body shoot all the formats its gate will accommodate: 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, and 24x70 on 35mm. My body will fire the shutter and mirror with no film magazine, so should work fine with the 22, and I'm already used to separate cock and advance (my 120 backs are Pro, not ProS, so don't support double exposure prevention; nor will the 22).
 

Dennis-B

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Jan 18, 2018
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My local used dealer had this on his eBay site, and I decided it was too nice to pass up, Koni Omega Rapid 100. It came with the camera, 90mm, 58mm (with aux viewfinder), 180mm lens, and two lens cases. Well cared for, except the previous owner removed the hand strap, but that's an easy fix.

Koni Omega Rapid 100 - 58,mm 90mm, 180mm Lenses.jpg
 
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baachitraka

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130 mm f/6.8 Series III dagor for €20 but shutter needs a service.

m-konversation-anhang.jpeg
 
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