What type of pen can I use to write on glossy Fiber Prints

[MingMingPhoto]

Hey all. I want to be able to write on my prints. Something more stable and permant than china markers. Would paint markers work beter?

 

[gone]

I use disposable, permanent rapidograph pens for pen and ink drawings, as well as writing on photos. Sakura Pigma is a reasonably priced brand, available in all art stores, and comes in many sizes. 100% archival ink that doesn't smear or bleed through.

https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma...ocphy=9030244&hvtargid=pla-348373657422&psc=1

 

[wiltw]

I use Rapidograph refillable technical pens with acid free ink so I can use colored inks that complement color prints, or black ink for B&W print.

https://www.dickblick.com/products/...6KTZ1NK_Y4nZm2ePmHeX2Z_aic6ZGIChoCWl8QAvD_BwE

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Google for "iron-gall ink". The old Lamy blue-black works reasonably well, though the blue component will smear. Salix ink should also work.

In the old days, for studio portraits and such, the print was signed in the darkroom by exposing the signature on to the print. This was done exposing through a bit of lithographic film that held an image of the signature. There were little boxes with an AA battery and flashlight bulb; the signature film was affixed to the open end of the box. It was placed on the print and the push-button held down for a few seconds to expose the signature.

 

[Pieter12]

I use disposable, permanent rapidograph pens for pen and ink drawings, as well as writing on photos. Sakura Pigma is a reasonably priced brand, available in all art stores, and comes in many sizes. 100% archival ink that doesn't smear or bleed through.

https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma...ocphy=9030244&hvtargid=pla-348373657422&psc=1

Not to be a stinker, but Rapidograph is a brand-name technical pen made by Koh-i-noor (and Rotring). Not what you have linked to, which is a very good technical marker pen. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technical_pen

 

[M Carter]

I use those nice Japanese pens by "Pigma" - sort of "Rapidograph" style, with carbon ink. On gloss paper, make sure the ink is 100% dry after writing or you'll smudge it. Wish I could find one in gray, since I much prefer the tone of a pencil signature on matte paper. I find the black ink kind of distracting.

 

[Brook Hill]

Sharpie

 

[Pieter12]

I use those nice Japanese pens by "Pigma" - sort of "Rapidograph" style, with carbon ink. On gloss paper, make sure the ink is 100% dry after writing or you'll smudge it. Wish I could find one in gray, since I much prefer the tone of a pencil signature on matte paper. I find the black ink kind of distracting.

Not the Micron pen, but Uni pin does have a variety of grey ink pens in various widths, I'm not sure they are archival.

 

[beemermark]

Back or picture side?? For the back a lead #2 pencil works great and no fear of contamination.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Thank you everyone!!

And I wanna know for the front. I'm gonna try these out but anyone know which ones are archival or not? Also, is there a pen that works on wet surfaces glossy surfaces? I wanna be able to directly write printing notes on the a test print - like circle a spot and write +5 or something

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

...is there a pen that works on wet surfaces glossy surfaces? I wanna be able to directly write printing notes on the a test print - like circle a spot and write +5 or something

If the print is damp, not wet, then try a fountain pen using a "waterproof" ink, like Lamy Blue-Black or other iron-gall ink - these inks will sink into the gelatin. After giving the ink a few minutes to sink in wash the print surface under running water to remove any excess ink, or if the next tray is a water holding bath then the excess ink should float off.

India ink doesn't seem to sink in but instead lays on the surface of the gelatin, it comes off with light rubbing.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Beautiful, thank you!

 

[eli griggs]

Back or picture side?? For the back a lead #2 pencil works great and no fear of contamination.

Use a #2 or #3 HB pencil, which does no smear like a typical 2B or 3B.

The difference is, the B pencils have a softer core 'lead', which is useful to artists for smearing the lines into a graduated shading.

The H pencils have a harder core so a #2HB is less likely to smear, and the 3HB even less so, which is why many artist, like myself, use them exclusively for signing works on paper.

Also remember, your work may require a different choice, the higher the number in B pencils are softer, blacker tools, and in H pencils, the higher the number, the harder the lead is.

I do suggest you try the 3HB as a regular stylist, however you may want a #2HB for a softer dark pencil

For ink, you might want a decent fountain pen, with a flexible nib, when you buy a fountain pen, you buy it for the nib or as a platform for a replacement flexible nib.

For inks, I like and use the "Heart of Darkness" By Noodler, which becomes permanent if the paper contains cotton fiber, once the ink dryer.

Noodler's has a number of fountain pen inks so you'll be spoiled for choices.

If you're using RC paper, just use a Pigma, which also offers brush pens, and archival inks.

I use the Pigma black fine pens for signing some art on paper works and I use their black for original drawings.

Good Luck and Godspeed,
Eli

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hey all. I want to be able to write on my prints. Something more stable and permant than china markers. Would paint markers work beter?

the Millenium marker from Zig Memory Systems is lightfast, water and fade proof non-bleeding; comes in different thicknesses. I have a o.1 and a 0.5mm version in pure black and it works well.

 

[MingMingPhoto]

Thank you both!! <333

 

[eli griggs]

Remember, besides being permanent, light fast, and fade proof, you need to make sure your ink is colour fast.

Many inks in the past, would change hue over time and your works on paper have a hundred years plus of living to do, with today's archival materials and processing.

Have fun,
Eli