what to look for in an enlarger?

[TenSpeed]

I would like to pick up an enlarger for black and white printing.. but not sure what i should be looking for.. features, brands, lenses, etc

id like to do 35 and medium format.. and most likely just black and white.. so should i only look at black and white enlargers or keep color as an option ?

any thoughts or direction is much appreciated

 

[RobC]

if you're in europe then a durst M805 or Modular 70 or M670 in that order.

If you're in US then probably Omega or beseler but I have no experience of those.

Its really about availability in your country.

IMO LPL are crap but others rave about them. They probably never used a durst in good condition.

Using ilford filters, preferably above the negative (below works too) makes life very easy. Colour heads work too but if they are not calibrated to your paper they can be a pain and difficult to calibrate.

So I'd get an enlarger for just black and white. The durst Modular 70 had a vario head for B+W which has inbuilt M+Y filters. It also had a B+W head which uses a filter drawer above the lens and condensors. And it had a colour head too. Depnds what you can get your hands on.
The M805 has many options but they are more expensive and not so easy to find.

If you're in the UK have look at:

http://www.secondhanddarkroom.co.uk/

 

[TenSpeed]

I am in the US, ill pick up some ilford filters and look for a beseler or omega

thanks

what about a timer? I know they range in pricing and some times you can find some for a steal.. any suggestions?

 

[removed account4]

you might also keep your eyes open for a durst m601 ..
time-0-light, omega timer, greylab, it depends on how fancy you want to be.

 

[Paul Howell]

You also need to consider how much room you have, what is the footprint and how tall is your ceilings, by MF do you mean 6X6, 6X7 or 6X9?

 

[RobC]

by MF do you mean 6X6, 6X7 or 6X9?

good point. The durst m805 will do 6x9 if it has all the right bits. The M670 and Modular70 go upto 6x7.

And if by chance you want new then take a look at:

http://www.kaiser-fototechnik.de/en/produkte/2_1_sortiment.asp?w=1342

 

[jeffreyg]

Don't rule out an enlarger that can handle 4x5's. Once you start printing and get hooked moving up or adding a larger format will be tempting. It was for me and I'm sure many others. Beseler and Omega have 4x5 enlargers that will handle your 35mm and medium formats.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[TenSpeed]

Don't rule out an enlarger that can handle 4x5's. Once you start printing and get hooked moving up or adding a larger format will be tempting. It was for me and I'm sure many others. Beseler and Omega have 4x5 enlargers that will handle your 35mm and medium formats.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

so with one setup i can do 35, 6x9, and 4x5 ? that would be ideal

 

[jeffreyg]

Yes, my enlarger is an Omega D2. I had a Beseler 23C originally and moved to the Omega thirty-five+ years ago. The foot print isn't that much different.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[4season]

I actually liked my 4x5 LPL lots when I had it: Alignment seemed pretty much dead-on, even after I accidentally whacked against it pretty hard on more than a couple of occasions. I really don't like having to fuss with aligning enlargers! In fact, there are no alignments to be made with the LPL: Just bolt it together.

Relatively lightweight for what it was, and the head was cleverly counterbalanced by a simple yet effective spring system. No motors or remote controls here: I just reached up to focus whilst simultaneously squinting through my grain focuser! Flexible-shaft control extensions were available, but I never bothered (but I was also pretty limber).

If I were to do it over again? I might choose the standard (non-XL) 4x5 model with variable contrast B&W module and 4x5 anti-newton glass carrier. Why? Because the smaller standard model would be a better fit in my compact quarters, and because I ended up using the 4x5 glass film carrier exclusively. Color? Nah, do it digitally and save your sanity.

Lenses: EL-Nikkor, Fujinon-EX or whatever. Viewing through your grain magnifier, you can quickly see which apertures yield maximum resolution, and you could just leave it there.

Timer: Rather than a conventional timer, I used this:
http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/html/analyser_pro.html

But more than any piece of equipment, the key to becoming pretty good in the darkroom is to do it a lot and do it frequently. I found b&w alone plenty challenging and think the way to do color in 2015 is: Digitally!

 

[Paul Howell]

I have an Omega D3, I use Omega as I am use to Omega, the Air Force used D5s. Bessler 4X5 is also a very nice system, I think the footprint is a little larger than an Omega, but it does not require lens cones to be used with different lens. Some Besslers 4X5 are motorized. If you decide on a D2 or D3 make sure you get a variable condenser model. Not as common in the US as Omega or Bessler you can still find 4X5 Dursts.

You also need to consider a negative carry for each size negative, lens boards and for Omega a lens cone for l05, 135, and 150 lens.

You can still find old 4X5 Federal and Dejur's which I would avoid along with any model that does not have a crank to raise and lower the enlarger. Having said that with care and practice and good quality enlarging lens both are capable of good work. I also have a Federal 6X9 stow a way enlarger that I take with me on the road.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

1. Get one which is available as complete set and fully working. It has to be ready to print.
2. Make sure it fits. Some of them are too tall for modern or small spaces.
3. One with build in color filters is better for bw, because you don't have to juggle with contrast filters.
4. One with exposure computer is the best.

1 and 2 are really important. 3 and 4 will save you time, but kill some fun

Make sure in addition to 1 and 2 you'll have timer, safelight, developing trays and tongs.
If you will get simple one, get contrast filters for RC paper or get FB instead.

I have basic, little Vivitar, with primitive timer. After getting of old Agfa Brovira FB paper I'm free from contrast filters and printing is quick and fun.
Do not try gigantic paper sizes. 5x7 is easy to handle, 8x10 is maximum to try at first time. 6x9 and 4x5 are great and good enough in contacts. I contact print this formats under my little enlarger which is perfect source of light.

 

[Sirius Glass]

1. Get one which is available as complete set and fully working. It has to be ready to print.
2. Make sure it fits. Some of them are too tall for modern or small spaces.
3. One with build in color filters is better for bw, because you don't have to juggle with contrast filters.
4. One with exposure computer is the best.

1 and 2 are really important. 3 and 4 will save you time, but kill some fun

Make sure in addition to 1 and 2 you'll have timer, safelight, developing trays and tongs.
If you will get simple one, get contrast filters for RC paper or get FB instead.

I have basic, little Vivitar, with primitive timer. After getting of old Agfa Brovira FB paper I'm free from contrast filters and printing is quick and fun.
Do not try gigantic paper sizes. 5x7 is easy to handle, 8x10 is maximum to try at first time. 6x9 and 4x5 are great and good enough in contacts. I contact print this formats under my little enlarger which is perfect source of light.

+1

Get a 4"x5" enlarger because you do not want to limit yourself later and it can handle the larger MF sizes such as 6x7 or 6x9.

 

[markbarendt]

I am in the US, ill pick up some ilford filters and look for a beseler or omega

thanks

what about a timer? I know they range in pricing and some times you can find some for a steal.. any suggestions?

First suggestion is to get more specific on where you are. For example if you are near Portland OR I might have a nice Beseler enlarger, a timer, and a variety of the other etcetera to offer at a good deal. If you're in Memphis thats another story ...

 

[pdeeh]

3. One with build in color filters is better for bw, because you don't have to juggle with contrast filters.

Until you decide you want to start split-grade printing, when it suddenly becomes a pain in the arse ...

(Someone said this to me in a thread ages ago, and I didn't believe them ... at the time ... oh the follies of ignorance)

 

[MattKing]

Some colour heads work great for split grade printing, while others are a challenge. My Beseler Dichro 67 is great, whereas a friend's Omega colour head is difficult.
Colour heads make great light sources even if you use below lens filters, so don't turn down an otherwise good choice for that reason.
In my area, Craigslist often has an enlarger or two available. My 4x5 Omega D6 with Ilford Multigrade head came to me that way.
A lot of schools used Beseler 23C enlargers. You could certainly do worse, and accessories are plentiful.

 

[RobC]

some detail.
You want an enlarger that doesn't have "creep" on the head. Some will very slowly move down under their own weight but this is usually adjustable.
If it has geared teeth on the column make sure they are all there and not broken or overly worn. The crank if there is one must be good.
The fine focus adjustment must be smooth and not stick and stay in place once focussed.
The cooling fan must not vibrate the head.
And the negative carrier must be good which is where, amongst other things, dursts excel.

I prefer enlargers where the lens axis remains above a fixed point on the baseboard. Those with sloping columns don't so as you adjust height you have to move the easel to re-center it under the lens. I'm thinking Meopta here, others may do the same.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Until you decide you want to start split-grade printing, when it suddenly becomes a pain in the arse ...

(Someone said this to me in a thread ages ago, and I didn't believe them ... at the time ... oh the follies of ignorance)

I have a Chromega Dichroic II 5D-XL which has built in filters and I have no problems doing split grade printing. I do not feel any pain, not even in the rear end.

An enlarger must be stable without any creep. It must also be stable from vibration.

 

[rthollenbeck]

I like the Omega B22 a lot but the complaint I hear most about Omegas is that they are difficult to align. The answer I hear to the alignment issue is to get a Beseler 23c instead. I like the Beseler ok to. Both are commonly available and inxepencive.

If your going to do a lot or mostly 35mm I would definitely consider getting a older 35mm autofocus press enlarger. Leitz 1a , 1c, 2c, and the Durst Micromat also called the M35 are all very nice well made 35mm autofocus enlargers. I don't like the Lietz V35 as much but it does have a very good modern color head if your going to do color.

If if your going to do medium format you can always have 2 enlargers.

 

[palewin]

The only area not commented on much was enlarger heads. There are essentially three options: condenser, cold light, and color. I think most basic models come with condenser heads, i.e. a light bulb and some focussing lenses. The cold light head uses a fluorescent-type bulb and diffusion glass which avoids the need for the condenser lenses. I prefer cold light, and believe most B&W printers do as well. A color head can be used for B&W printing, you use the color options for variable contrast printing, as opposed to having to place gelatin filters in the light path. The VC heads I'm familiar with (I have a ZoneVI head on my 4x5 enlarger) are cold light heads with two tubes, blue and green, which you adjust to get the grade you want, so they are sort of color heads with fewer color options.

4x5 enlargers can be used for all formats up to 4x5; you need an enlarging lens for each format (typically 50/80/150mm for 35/6x6 or 6x7/4x5, and negative carriers for each format. If you are using a condenser, you typically also need a different light box or condenser lenses for each format. And of course the 4x5 enlarger is simply a bigger beast. Mine is a British DeVere 405, one of the best European brands (considered a competitor for Durst) but rare in this country (but not in Canada!).

 

[GKC]

If you get an old Omega or Beseler, look for one that comes with the most accessories. Shopping for little missing parts or attachments for different formats , while easily found, can get real expensive fast!

 

[Sirius Glass]

... and time consuming.

 

[paul_c5x4]

3. One with build in color filters is better for bw, because you don't have to juggle with contrast filters.

Until you decide you want to start split-grade printing, when it suddenly becomes a pain in the arse ...

This is where under the lens filter kits come in handy - Flick the lever on the side of the head to white light and slip in the required filter.
I have an Ilford holder attached to the lens on my CLS450 head (a Cokin A series adaptor ring is handy). Works for me.

 

[klownshed]

There are quite a few comments about using a colour head for B&W split grade printing.

I have a Durst M670 with both colour and B&W heads. I started off with the colour head, as the 'general' advice seemed to be that it would be easier and less fiddly than using the B&W head with below lens filters.

But here's the thing. The moment I switched to the B&W head things clicked with me and actually became easier, not more fiddly. I found moving the colour head dials around a bit more fiddly than switching the below lens filters. Especially under safelight.

Also, the transformer I have for my Durst is relatively big for my tiny darkroom space. There's no transformer required for the B&W head.

A variable contrast head designed specifically for B&W would be different, but those seem much harder to find (and are more expensive) than either colour or B&W enlargers. Also they still need a transformer.

In any case, my advice would be to get a modular type enlarger so that you can change the head if needed. One reason I have a colour and B&W M670 is that I needed some spares, and getting a complete enlarger was cheaper than getting spare parts with the advantage of getting lots of additional bits and pieces that are very useful (it's nice having two neg carriers with different masks for example).

But like many things in life, I think it's ultimately a subjective thing. You may prefer the look of a diffuser over a condensor, or you may find below lens filters to be the work of the devil ;-)

 

[pdeeh]

Yep. I use a Kaiser colour head, and the dials are usually a little above eye level when I'm printing, and it is a fiddle to see the numbers and marks. One day I'll get a filter adaptor, probably, but I put up with it for now.
However as Matt says, not everyone finds it a problem - it depends on a few factors, including how setting the filters is implemented on different enlargers. Maybe it's much easier with other enlargers.