What to do with Canon EOS Rebel...

[bvy]

I'm to the point now where people see me and feel the need to bestow upon me cameras that haven't seen the light of days for years. I'm always thankful, and I've gotten some nice things and some not so nice things. One recent such acquisition was a Canon EOS Rebel SLR with kit 35-80 zoom lens. It's clean and seems to work just fine. In fact, not having played with one before, I was surprised how much it works and acts like a DSLR (I cut my photographic teeth on digital). Still, eBay is flooded with the likes of these and they're going for a song, so something tells me they can't be that special. Is it worth playing around with, or should I try to cash in on it and maybe put the proceeds toward a single roll of film?

 

[summicron1]

when i get those I either use them, display them, or hunt up a photography student at the local college where they still teach film as an art form. They always need dependable film cameras.

And when you give it to them they are very grateful. $50 isn't worth the hassle for you (if you could get that much) but it's a fortune to a struggling student.

 

[Alan Gales]

It all depends upon if you like it or not. A 35-80 zoom makes a nice walk around lens. You could load it with film and keep it in your car glove box so you always have a camera near.

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

The Rebel was the camera that started the change in cameras from well-built devices that would last a lifetime to plastic pieces of crap. EVERYTHING on the Rebel is plastic, even the lensmount. They were cheap new, about $250. I would not buy one, but if given to me, I'd play with it.

The reason it operates like a digital SLR is that the all-electronic computerized controls we associate with digital actually originated in the last couple generations of film SLRs in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Film cameras like the Canon EOS 1n and Nikon F5 have virtually the same control layouts as digital cameras because camera makers basically took their film SLR designs and popped digital sensors in them.

 

[Dennis S]

I have a small selection of EOS cameras that are well worth learning how to use. Like you say on auto they cover a lot of good programs that ease a new comers experimentations with film. The price you would get would be not worth the time and effort to sell. Grab a roll of film and get out and take a shot or 2 and see what comes of it. For the EF lenses that are availible you can set up a good lineup or various mm/fstop combinations. Most of my film photography is done A & F Canon bodies with FD & FL lenses but my EOS & EF camera/lens combos come out only when I really need AF.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I tried EOS 3 just for curiosity of AF triggering by eye.
Sold it quickly. Here is nothing my Rebel can't do without been in XXXL size and tank weight.
Kit lens on it is OK, actually. Long gone by now, since I have some L glass.
You don't have to buy L lenss, but some modern EOS mount primes will give you high quality negatives, without MF hassle, limited to the tiny middle spot in archaic focusing screen.

 

[alanrockwood]

You might keep it and use it. Canon Rebels are actually very capable cameras, even if made largely of plastic.

Or, find a youngster who wants to learn to shoot film and give it to him/her.

 

[MattKing]

Which version?

Whatever version you have, if you put a 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens on it, you will have a very capable, reasonably sized and very light camera.

Just don't pay camera store prices for the battery.

 

[Dr Croubie]

Whatever version you have, if you put a 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens on it, you will have a very capable, reasonably sized and very light camera.

This.
I love my Shorty McForty on my EOS 3, even that combo is a nice light walkaround size, except that it chews through batteries (something wrong with the camera I think) so most of the time I leave the 8xAA grip on, then it's not so small and walkaround anymore.
I've actually been considering getting a tiny crap rebel plastic fantastic body for this precise reason, and leave the gripped EOS 3 for the huge lenses (like my 70-300L). I'd take the rebel off your hands, but it's probably not worth the cost of postage from the states to here.

Or there's always the donate-it-to-a-poor-struggling-student route, they always seem to take better pictures with crap cameras and kit zooms than I can get with my good cameras and primes...

 

[baachitraka]

EF 50mmf f/1.4 can give you very sharp negatives. I have 650 bought out of curiosity and I use it indoors with 430EX II flash.

For more power I use Metz 45 CT-4 with an adapter and they work really good.

 

[tomfrh]

My rebel works just as well as my EOS 1V, except it weighs a lot less and gives me 37 shots instead of 36.

 

[blockend]

Which version?

Whatever version you have, if you put a 40mm f/2.8 pancake lens on it, you will have a very capable, reasonably sized and very light camera.

Definitely. The 3000 series with a 40mm makes a camera that's not much bigger than a chunky P&S, with great glass and far more control. Boutique point and shoots sell for £250 upwards and generally have irreplaceable LCDs. My 3000n cost a tenner, and the lens works on digital camera so retains resale value. It's also a great lens at a very useful focal length.

 

[pdeeh]

What's a boutique point and shoot ?

 

[blockend]

What's a boutique point and shoot ?

Anything sold by japancamerahunter to hipsters.

Edit: to be fair to Mr Bellamy he does warn potential purchasers that their compact cameras are no longer supported by the maker or 3rd parties.

 

[pdeeh]

hmm

 

[blockend]

hmm

Or any point and shoot which sells for over £250 for which the manufacturers have abrogated responsibility for parts and repair. Hi tech, orphan, overpriced cameras with uncertain futures = boutique.

 

[pdeeh]

In about 1991, I bought my Olympus mju-1 from Boots the Chemist, Victoria Road, Surbiton; it was (I remember distinctly) £108.

According to the Bank of England, that's a little over £200 now. So was I 80% hipster in 1991?

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Yes, almost everything on the Canon Rebels is plastic. However, they are fun to use and are very capable cameras. They are also fully functional with every EF lens made, from 1987 to today, with no restrictions or modifications.

With the very inexpensive but good 50/1.8 lens, they are good for students or just for walking around with very light gear.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Use it and enjoy it or pay it forward as noted below:

when i get those I either use them, display them, or hunt up a photography student at the local college where they still teach film as an art form. They always need dependable film cameras.

And when you give it to them they are very grateful. $50 isn't worth the hassle for you (if you could get that much) but it's a fortune to a struggling student.

 

[blockend]

In about 1991, I bought my Olympus mju-1 from Boots the Chemist, Victoria Road, Surbiton; it was (I remember distinctly) £108.

According to the Bank of England, that's a little over £200 now. So was I 80% hipster in 1991?

I had an Olympus XA in '81, also a mjuII when they came out as a birthday present from my wife. I was thinking more of 1990s and noughties point and shoots that sell for £250+ second hand in today's market, various Contax, Fuji, Yashica, Ricoh, etc, with unserviceable LCDs, AF systems and other quirks. Don't get me wrong, people should do as they damn well please with their money, but I think fashion plays a big part in owning those kinds of cameras, nice though some are. I certainly wouldn't drop 250-500 on something that was an ornament when a tiny component died.

On ebay UK currently there's a Contax T3 for sale for £628.9, a Fuji Klasse for 321.07, a Yashica T4 for £199.99, a Ricoh GR1v for £990.00. I don't know how typical they are of actual sales prices but someone thinks they represent good value!

 

[Cropline]

The Rebel was the camera that started the change in cameras from well-built devices that would last a lifetime to plastic pieces of crap. EVERYTHING on the Rebel is plastic, even the lensmount. They were cheap new, about $250. I would not buy one, but if given to me, I'd play with it.

Don't let somebodies pitiful opinion make you think the camera is junk. It works, it's useful. The imagery that can be made is dependent on how good the film and lens are. We all know there are other factors but those particulars aren't in view here. Have some fun w/it or see that someone else puts it to good use.

 

[GarageBoy]

My Rebel T2 (latest) is currently rocking a 40 2.8 on it- nice alternative to a fancy point and shoot as stated above-
$500 for a Contax T3? Pfft
My whole set up cost less than a Yashica T4 and it's autofocus doesn't make me want to throw the thing at the subject (I hate cameras that AF after you fully press the shutter)

Keep the kit lens on it and use it as a beater camera or something (shooting in hazardous conditions)
It's lightweight, it takes a full line of EF lenses and is damn reliable - despite the fact that its plastic heavy

 

[cl3mens]

The idea of using it as a beater in suboptimal conditions is good. One should never go without a camera...

I am in a similar situation, my friend got a Canon EOS 700 with the (horrible) 35-80 power zoom lens for free. I am thinking of using it just to push my limits, and if the body seems nice I can always use it with a M42 adapter (would be nice to have an AE body for M42 sometimes) or glueing on a holga lens to a body cap.

 

[McFortner]

I just ordered a 40 2.8 for my EOS cameras. I have a 750, 10S, 10QD, and 300. Not bad little cameras once I got used to the whole auto SLR thing. I'm used to my manual Minolta SLRs. But they won't take non-perf film like the EOS 10 will.

 

[MattKing]

I just ordered a 40 2.8 for my EOS cameras. I have a 750, 10S, 10QD, and 300. Not bad little cameras once I got used to the whole auto SLR thing. I'm used to my manual Minolta SLRs. But they won't take non-perf film like the EOS 10 will.

One thing that takes a little getting used to with the 40mm f/2.8 is that it is an STM lens. That means that it uses a sort of "focus by wire" approach when you focus manually.

Your camera has to be turned on and your metering has to be active in order to focus manually - it is a bit hard to adjust to initially, but it actually works well.