Thank you very much for that information. Very interesting.
At the time of the F3 introduction, the local Nikon importer said the feature was specifically implemented for the sake of professionals who might load a film with the lens cap on - which in turn would result in a multi second long exposure delaying the film loading process and thereby causing lost precious time.
Before the introduction of the F3, the Nikon FE was widely used by pros as a secondary camera to the F2 - and the feedback given to Nikon was that the blockage of film advance during film loading was a problem, hence the birth of this feature - the customers asked for it
It would be kind of ironic if the F3P didn't also have this feature.
As I noted in an earlier reply, the 3 Nikon EL variations and the FE don't have this feature - partly why I prefer these over my FE2.
At the time of the F3 introduction, the local Nikon importer said the feature was specifically implemented for the sake of professionals who might load a film with the lens cap on - which in turn would result in a multi second long exposure delaying the film loading process and thereby causing lost precious time.
Before the introduction of the F3, the Nikon FE was widely used by pros as a secondary camera to the F2 - and the feedback given to Nikon was that the blockage of film advance during film loading was a problem, hence the birth of this feature - the customers asked for it
It would be kind of ironic if the F3P didn't also have this feature.
Unless one is using flash on the F3 a lot, that's a very minor inconvenience. There is an atttachment, AS-7, that moves the hotshoe off the rewind. It's not that expensive and works great.
I'll take the slightly contrarian position and suggest the FA. Why? Because while aperture priority is useful, so is shutter priority when shooting moving subjects, or dimly lit scenes. I bought mine years ago and it works beautifully.
The other reason, my brain is more numerate than spactial. I hate cameras like the FE2 that have a swinging needle that arcs through a list of shutter speeds, because my brain can't process the value indicated by a long needle nearly as fast or well as my brain can process a numeric readout of shutter or aperture values. But then that is the same as the FM3a, so you may like that setup.
BTW, pros don't use autoexposure . . .Besides, any pro user - who may have accidentally put their F3 on autoexposure would have known that all you had to do if you got hung up on a long autoexposure is to move it off to a manual speed. I could understand them putting this feature on the none pro cameras like the FG or even the FA and FE2. Of course all subsequent motorized cameras - pro or otherwise, always automatically advance to position 1 but I really appreciated that Nikon made this right in the FM3A. That and the full hybrid shutter compelled me to acquire the FM3A.
That backstory of preventing people from retiring just to make the FM3A happen was also very compelling -> Nikon FM3A
BTW, pros don't use autoexposure . . .Besides, any pro user - who may have accidentally put their F3 on autoexposure would have known that all you had to do if you got hung up on a long autoexposure is to move it off to a manual speed. I could understand them putting this feature on the none pro cameras like the FG or even the FA and FE2. Of course all subsequent motorized cameras - pro or otherwise, always automatically advance to position 1 but I really appreciated that Nikon made this right in the FM3A. That and the full hybrid shutter compelled me to acquire the FM3A.
That backstory of preventing people from retiring just to make the FM3A happen was also very compelling -> Nikon FM3A
Can you elaborate on this?For using the camera I like the feature but when i want to test the shutter speed I have to put something to make the camera thinks the back is closed so the shutter speed will work at all speeds.
Compelling stories helps justify the acquisition . . .That's a great article. Thanks for sharing
In general I do use auto mode and I like it so I don't have to turn it back to manual when I load the film. I almost always load the film with the lens cap on any way. When I test the shutter speed I have to open the back (in fact I remove the back of the F3) in order for the sensor to see thru the film gate to test the shutter. So to do that I have to jam a toothpick at the switch that indicate the back is closed so that the shutter will work correctly.Can you elaborate on this?
In general I do use auto mode and I like it so I don't have to turn it back to manual when I load the film. I almost always load the film with the lens cap on any way. When I test the shutter speed I have to open the back (in fact I remove the back of the F3) in order for the sensor to see thru the film gate to test the shutter. So to do that I have to jam a toothpick at the switch that indicate the back is closed so that the shutter will work correctly.
Using one of those shutter testers with the LED receiver?
Yes I use 2 way. One I have a thru beam with the sender and a receiver. Another I use a sensor which has the sender and receiver in the same package and it detect light bounce back from the light curtain. Either way I have to have the back open. The output of the sensor is connected to an oscilloscope to measure the time.
I never thought about these manual bodies not firing when the back is open or off. Nikon adding some more foolproofing . . .
I have a few manual bodies and have always been interested in their shutter accuracy. However, I've never observed an exposure problem so never tested any. If you've been keeping track of results I would be interested if you're willing to share.
No the F3 would fire the shutter with the back open but it won't fire at speed above 1/80 before the frame count reach 1 which it doesn't because the back is open.
Of course!
Have you seen any benefits from shutter speed testing? How much of a deviation have you gotten from fully manual as well as from cameras with shutter priority? From some I've seen seems they trend to be slower?
Please rephrase your question. What do you mean deviation from fully manual? For the F3 I would have to test manual speeds and then auto speeds. Auto speed is kind of difficult because you have to have simulated light source to make the camera set the speeds.
The F3 is accurate to about 10% on shutter speed like 500 to 60. At 1000 and 2000 it's more like 20 to 30%. Below 60 is very close. The FM and FM2n matches the F3 on speed of 125 and above. Lower speed it has the same variation as the higher speeds. So electronically control has advantage mainly in the low speeds.
My Minolta's are OK but not as good as the Nikon's. The cameras that have the worse performance was my 2 Yashica Lynx 14 and Lynx 14e. The speeds are like 1 and 1/2 stops too slow.
I dislike auto anything, and found the FM3a Aperture Priority system too dicey for anything fussy like slide film. So I sold it. I personally prefer the no-nonsense FM2n. Per shutter speeds, I test them all anyway with an electronic tester. Only the very highest speed on either model was significantly off (I bought both cameras new). Needle metering versus lit-up LED's? - about the same, although LED's are easier to use in dim light. For critical work, I use a handheld meter anyway.
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