Miranda Sensorex.
Topcon RE Super/ Beseler Topcon Super D.
Topcon RE Super/ Beseler Topcon Super D.
I'd like to see what you think of Argus rangefinders, the c3, c33, c4 or c44, with other than the stock 50mm lenses attached. Also what do you think of the Kodak Signet series?
OT: how is the 88CM? Some people say it's a remarkable improvement, others that it's like the 88 just more expensive.
For the Soviet glass (Kiev were made in Ukraine, not Russia) I always loved it, my Arsat 50mm f2 N (the old Soviet Helios 81N developed for the Kiev 17/18/19/20 series) is better than the Nikkor 50mm f2 and 1.8...usually Nikonians goio berserk when I write that.
... the Hassy V series from what I hear, is finiky.
...
Hmm. I can't think of anything finicky about the Hasselblads. The only caution is to ensure the body is cocked (white indicator) when mounting or unmounting a lens. Even if you forget and the lens jams, the solution is simple.
Naturally, you can't fire the shutter if you forgot to remove the dark slide and you can't remove the back until you insert the dark slide. All logical.
What about putting a non-white back on a white body and try to shoot/wind? What about the opposite?
The Kiev, like the Hassy V series from what I hear, is finiky.
What about putting a non-white back on a white body and try to shoot/wind? What about the opposite?
To start, let's assume the body is cocked (white indicator).
On the back, the indicator is dark under two conditions:
(1) film hasn't been wound to frame 1 yet, in which case you use the handle to wind to frame 1. Both indicators will now be white and you're ready to shoot.
(2) if the film has been wound to at least frame 1 and the indicator is dark, that means the back was removed after the shot and before winding on to the next. If you mount the back and take a shot, it will produce a double exposure. If you don't want that, just cover the lens, shoot, and then wind on.
If the back is showing the white indicator but the body isn't, then just remove the back, wind the body, and you're good to go.
If I remember correctly, the 501C doesn't have a body-cocked indicator. That's stupid of Hasselblad.
The only thing finicky about the Hasselblad V Series is the poster above. The poster above should RTFM before mouthing off about thing he knows nothing about.
Pretty much the same as the Kiev. I, personally, find this finicky after using the Bronica.
So you're confirming the Kiev is just like the Hassy
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Pretty much the same as the Kiev. I, personally, find this finicky after using the Bronica.
Wait until you try an RB67!
So, these interlocks and indicators are necessary in a system that allows you to use multiple backs interchangeably mid-roll and so forth (e.g. if you're using three backs for n-1, n, n+1 Zone System exposures).
How does the Bronica accomplish this?
How would I know, I never used a Kiev but I heard that it is a ripped off copy. Since you CLAIM to know so much why don't you RTFM? Are you saying that you are not able to RTFM? Now we have arrived at the root cause of the problem.
Wait until you try an RB67!
So, these interlocks and indicators are necessary in a system that allows you to use multiple backs interchangeably mid-roll and so forth (e.g. if you're using three backs for n-1, n, n+1 Zone System exposures).
How does the Bronica accomplish this?
He probably does not know because he does not RTFM. Jes' sayin'![]()
I had a Pro SD with SD backs. I don't remember any special dance I had to do.
Try some half frame cameras, and old 120 folders, just to have variety of formats.
Good idea,
Not the expensive models but the ordinary "working class" cameras, Zeiss Ikon Nettar , Chaika half frame, possibly sub mins too, Minox or a Kiev 35A.
I like spending other peoples money.![]()
Canon FTb
Kiev/Pentacon medium format.
I've revived my love for the russian glass recently. After buying an 88CM, I started appreciating the Kiev 60 again.
To start, let's assume the body is cocked (white indicator).
On the back, the indicator is dark under two conditions:
...
(2) if the film has been wound to at least frame 1 and the indicator is dark, that means the back was removed after the shot and before winding on to the next. If you mount the back and take a shot, it will produce a double exposure. If you don't want that, just cover the lens, shoot, and then wind on.
...
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