What other cameras should I be trying

[MattKing]

Miranda Sensorex.

Topcon RE Super/ Beseler Topcon Super D.

 

[Alan Gales]

As Monty Python used to say, "And now for something completely different!".

How about a Stereo Realist? They were very well made cameras and expensive back in the day. You can pick one up off Ebay for $100 or less. You will need a film cutter, slide mounts and a viewer. You can pick up everything off Ebay. You can get a cheap viewer that you hold up to the light to see. If you end up enjoying stereo photography then buy one of the battery powered or electric viewers.

Why stereo? I always enjoyed my View Master and 3D slide discs when I was a kid. Making your own stereo images is just fun and isn't that what amateur photography is about?

Here is a link to Dr. T's ebay store. http://stores.ebay.com/DrT-3d/Stere...sub=1981973&_sid=125485&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

 

[blockend]

How about the very weird Konica FP-1? A fully auto exposure, manual focus camera like the Canon AV-1 and Pentax MV1 that uses any of Konica's lenses, but only shoots at f2.8, f5.6 or f11! The era when SLRs tried to compete with point and shoots for the total noob market, but only served to confuse everyone.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

I like your web site.

Here's another vote for FTb and Minolta SR. The more common and later cameras have been reviewed all over the web, so it's refreshing to see the older and less common.

 

[alanrockwood]

I'd like to see what you think of Argus rangefinders, the c3, c33, c4 or c44, with other than the stock 50mm lenses attached. Also what do you think of the Kodak Signet series?

Kodak Signet 35... great lens. Also, I think you can often get an extra shot or two on a roll if I remember correctly.

I have owned two over the years, one of which I still have, though I haven't used it recently. I think it stall has part of a roll of Plus-X in it. I bought it at a university surplus sale, and it has an old US Air Force identification plate on the bottom.

 

[removed account4]

a gralfex national II slr

 

[mweintraub]

OT: how is the 88CM? Some people say it's a remarkable improvement, others that it's like the 88 just more expensive.

For the Soviet glass (Kiev were made in Ukraine, not Russia) I always loved it, my Arsat 50mm f2 N (the old Soviet Helios 81N developed for the Kiev 17/18/19/20 series) is better than the Nikkor 50mm f2 and 1.8...usually Nikonians goio berserk when I write that.

It's hard to give a fair report on the 88/88CM because I have a Bronica SQ-A. The Bronica is near perfect. It's fluid, smooth, and a great system. The Kiev, like the Hassy V series from what I hear, is finiky. Other than the usual "Ukrainian don't change shutter speed until you cock the shutter" deal, you have to make sure the body and backs are in the "white state" if not, things get hung up. I'm planning on doing a literal side-by-side test with the 88CM and a Hassy 501CM for www.returntofilm.com. Also will do a 88CM post about my feelings about the camera, but I will try to keep my Bronica background at bay.

I've thought about getting Russian / Ukraine Nikon mount lens to play with. If it's good wide open (not "cloudy") then I'd be happy with it. OT: My new Nikkor-H 50mm f2 has that haze/cloudiness wide open, but is sharp @ f/2.8.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

... the Hassy V series from what I hear, is finiky.
...

Hmm. I can't think of anything finicky about the Hasselblads. The only caution is to ensure the body is cocked (white indicator) when mounting or unmounting a lens. Even if you forget and the lens jams, the solution is simple.

Naturally, you can't fire the shutter if you forgot to remove the dark slide and you can't remove the back until you insert the dark slide. All logical.

 

[mweintraub]

Hmm. I can't think of anything finicky about the Hasselblads. The only caution is to ensure the body is cocked (white indicator) when mounting or unmounting a lens. Even if you forget and the lens jams, the solution is simple.

Naturally, you can't fire the shutter if you forgot to remove the dark slide and you can't remove the back until you insert the dark slide. All logical.

What about putting a non-white back on a white body and try to shoot/wind? What about the opposite?

 

[Theo Sulphate]

What about putting a non-white back on a white body and try to shoot/wind? What about the opposite?

To start, let's assume the body is cocked (white indicator).

On the back, the indicator is dark under two conditions:

(1) film hasn't been wound to frame 1 yet, in which case you use the handle to wind to frame 1. Both indicators will now be white and you're ready to shoot.

(2) if the film has been wound to at least frame 1 and the indicator is dark, that means the back was removed after the shot and before winding on to the next. If you mount the back and take a shot, it will produce a double exposure. If you don't want that, just cover the lens, shoot, and then wind on.

If the back is showing the white indicator but the body isn't, then just remove the back, wind the body, and you're good to go.

If I remember correctly, the 501C doesn't have a body-cocked indicator. That's stupid of Hasselblad.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The Kiev, like the Hassy V series from what I hear, is finiky.

The only thing finicky about the Hasselblad V Series is the poster above. The poster above should RTFM before mouthing off about thing he knows nothing about.

 

[Sirius Glass]

What about putting a non-white back on a white body and try to shoot/wind? What about the opposite?

Again RTFM!

 

[mweintraub]

To start, let's assume the body is cocked (white indicator).

On the back, the indicator is dark under two conditions:

(1) film hasn't been wound to frame 1 yet, in which case you use the handle to wind to frame 1. Both indicators will now be white and you're ready to shoot.

(2) if the film has been wound to at least frame 1 and the indicator is dark, that means the back was removed after the shot and before winding on to the next. If you mount the back and take a shot, it will produce a double exposure. If you don't want that, just cover the lens, shoot, and then wind on.

If the back is showing the white indicator but the body isn't, then just remove the back, wind the body, and you're good to go.

If I remember correctly, the 501C doesn't have a body-cocked indicator. That's stupid of Hasselblad.

Pretty much the same as the Kiev. I, personally, find this finicky after using the Bronica.

The only thing finicky about the Hasselblad V Series is the poster above. The poster above should RTFM before mouthing off about thing he knows nothing about.

So you're confirming the Kiev is just like the Hassy


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[Sirius Glass]

Pretty much the same as the Kiev. I, personally, find this finicky after using the Bronica.




So you're confirming the Kiev is just like the Hassy


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How would I know, I never used a Kiev but I heard that it is a ripped off copy. Since you CLAIM to know so much why don't you RTFM? Are you saying that you are not able to RTFM? Now we have arrived at the root cause of the problem.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Pretty much the same as the Kiev. I, personally, find this finicky after using the Bronica.

Wait until you try an RB67!

So, these interlocks and indicators are necessary in a system that allows you to use multiple backs interchangeably mid-roll and so forth (e.g. if you're using three backs for n-1, n, n+1 Zone System exposures).

How does the Bronica accomplish this?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Wait until you try an RB67!

So, these interlocks and indicators are necessary in a system that allows you to use multiple backs interchangeably mid-roll and so forth (e.g. if you're using three backs for n-1, n, n+1 Zone System exposures).

How does the Bronica accomplish this?

He probably does not know because he does not RTFM. Jes' sayin'

 

[mweintraub]

How would I know, I never used a Kiev but I heard that it is a ripped off copy. Since you CLAIM to know so much why don't you RTFM? Are you saying that you are not able to RTFM? Now we have arrived at the root cause of the problem.

I did read the FM. And that's where I came to my conclusion. Nothing broke. But it's finicky. Sorry you got your rear end hurt.

Wait until you try an RB67!

So, these interlocks and indicators are necessary in a system that allows you to use multiple backs interchangeably mid-roll and so forth (e.g. if you're using three backs for n-1, n, n+1 Zone System exposures).

How does the Bronica accomplish this?

I had a Pro SD with SD backs. I don't remember any special dance I had to do.

He probably does not know because he does not RTFM. Jes' sayin'

Yes, I read the FMs. I've never stated that something broke because I didn't do something right.


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[Les Sarile]

Nice style of reviews on your website.

My first recommendation would be the Pentax LX as it is the only camera - past or present by any manufacturer, that can aperture priority autoexpose a scene for as long as it takes to complete the exposure while monitoring the scene in realtime and adjusting accordingly plus or minus.

It is already well reviewed in MIR on Pentax LX but maybe something you would like to experience firsthand.

My second recommendation is the Minolta XE-7 (XE in Japan and XE-1 in Europe) that was developed in collaboration with Leica who produced the R3. In my collection, it has the smoothest film advance throughout the full stroke. Be careful as it may make you wonder if your other cameras need service by comparison.

Interestingly it did not find a proper review at Dead Link Removed so maybe you can do it justice.


BTW, there are many others worth considering like the Olympus Pen FT (35mm half frame), the Konica Auto-Reflex (35mm full & half frame) and Ricoh TLS401 (dual viewfinder).

 

[Theo Sulphate]

I had a Pro SD with SD backs. I don't remember any special dance I had to do.

Well, it seems to me that there's no special dance unless you deliberately get the back out of sync with the body - normally, you just wind and shoot or change backs whenever you want.

The RB67 (I have just the Pro S) is no different at all. In fact, you have to advance the film separately. You can still encounter the same mismatch situations that can exist with the Hasselblad - it's just that the Hasselblad gives you indications of the body and back state.

I have to admire both Hasselblad and Mamiya because they both had the same problems to solve (i.e. an interchangeable lens, interchangeable back, modular medium format system), yet they took very different approaches and both were very successful. Rollei had an arguably better system which, unfortunately, was not much of a marketing success.

 

[Stephen Dowling]

Guys

Cheers one and all for your replies, which I just waded through awaiting the train to work.

I'll reply in more detail throughout the day.

Brilliant stuff - thanks for the suggestions.

S


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[Zorkiphoto]

Try some half frame cameras, and old 120 folders, just to have variety of formats.

I have an old Soviet Iskra that i love shooting with - going to use this over the next year and then review it. Greta camera, and a joy to use.

Half-frame? Time to dig out my old FED Micron from the back of the camera drawer...

 

[Zorkiphoto]

Good idea,

Not the expensive models but the ordinary "working class" cameras, Zeiss Ikon Nettar , Chaika half frame, possibly sub mins too, Minox or a Kiev 35A.

I like spending other peoples money.

Thanks Sewin - just as long as you leave me enough for rent and food.

Check on the Kiev 35a, I have an example I bought in Munich Railway Station some years back. Still seems to be metering OK. Consider it on the list.

I had a couple of Chaika half-frames a decade back but never put film through them...

S

 

[Zorkiphoto]

Canon FTb

Yep, looks exactly like the kind of thing I should be trying. Thanks Ric.

 

[Zorkiphoto]

Kiev/Pentacon medium format.

I've revived my love for the russian glass recently. After buying an 88CM, I started appreciating the Kiev 60 again.

Have a pair of Kiev 60s and used to shoot a lot with them in the early 2000s - took one to Cuba where I got some great pics... been following a great Lithuanian photographer, Ruta Urbonaite, who takes lovely portraits/landscapes with a Kiev 60. It's definitely inspired me to use it more often.

S

 

[Xmas]

To start, let's assume the body is cocked (white indicator).

On the back, the indicator is dark under two conditions:

...

(2) if the film has been wound to at least frame 1 and the indicator is dark, that means the back was removed after the shot and before winding on to the next. If you mount the back and take a shot, it will produce a double exposure. If you don't want that, just cover the lens, shoot, and then wind on.

...

Are you sure I thought the back blocked the shutter release and you needed to stick the dark slide in remove the back and fire the shutter put the back on etc.

I've not managed a double exposure yet over 30 years.

But I always wind on immediate to get one shot without film bend memory.

So donno?