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Really? I haven't investigated the Bronica lenses much, but I'd particularly like to get the 50mm working. Thanks for reminding me of this thread - I had planned to find where I've hidden those lenses, now I should be able to remember to do it.

I posted how to do it in photo.net a long time ago. I describe how to get in to the trouble spot. Then it's clean and relube sparingly with a thin grease. The method's the same for the SQ and ETR lenses.
 
I posted how to do it in photo.net a long time ago. I describe how to get in to the trouble spot. Then it's clean and relube sparingly with a thin grease. The method's the same for the SQ and ETR lenses.

Thanks for that. I should get a few minutes to look in one of the lenses this weekend.
 
Mamiya Super 23 6x9
Bronica ETRSi 6x4.5
Rolleicord V 6x6
Graflex Century Graphic 2x3 6x9

I use them all now and again.

I think if I was forced to choose only one, I’d keep the Rolleicord because of its size and portability. It takes good pictures too…
 
I only have one medium format camera and its the Rolleiflex Sl66. The auction price + repair cost really made it the only medium format camera I'm able to purchase. Worth every penny though.
 
Agfa Record III
Mamiyaflex C2
Mamiya RB67
Mamiya 6 K2

I recently sold my RB67 and I'm excitedly waiting to receive my Mamiya 6 k2 dual format folder. 🙂
 
I just acquired a Rolleiflex 6008 Integral with the 80mm f2.8 PQS lens. I wanted to see if it's more "user friendly" than my various Hassy's, even though the seem to share the same Zeiss glass.
 
For medium format:
Bronica S2
Mamiya 645 on loan to me
Rolleicord IV which I’m just about to sell.

I’m now about to buy either a Rolleicord Va, Vb, or a Yashica 635.
 
I posted how to do it in photo.net a long time ago. I describe how to get in to the trouble spot. Then it's clean and relube sparingly with a thin grease. The method's the same for the SQ and ETR lenses.

I tried your advice on two lenses, today. ETR 50 and 150mm. I did the 150, first. The interesting thing in that one was that there was no sign of any lubrication whatsoever. The shutter was definitely not firing correctly, though. I brushed lighter fluid onto the area you suggest and it came away with nothing. I think the mechanism may have always been dry, since it differed significantly from the 50mm, which obviously had lubrication. On the 150, if you fired the shutter 10 times, it most often opened with a significant lag. It seems to be working properly, now. The 50 - the shutter wouldn't open half the time. Now it too seems to be working properly.
I'll check them again in a few days. They'll probably still be fine. I didn't squirt lighter fluid in there and I only used machine oil on a toothpick to lightly oil the mechanism - and then actually brushed it to get some back off. Last thing I want is oil on the aperture or shutter blades (although I don't know if it can migrate from there to the shutter mechanism).
And - thanks. The 50mm makes the Bronica so much more interesting.
Do you know if the same sorts of problems with RB67 lenses can be solved in a similar way?
 
I tried your advice on two lenses, today. ETR 50 and 150mm. I did the 150, first. The interesting thing in that one was that there was no sign of any lubrication whatsoever. The shutter was definitely not firing correctly, though. I brushed lighter fluid onto the area you suggest and it came away with nothing. I think the mechanism may have always been dry, since it differed significantly from the 50mm, which obviously had lubrication. On the 150, if you fired the shutter 10 times, it most often opened with a significant lag. It seems to be working properly, now. The 50 - the shutter wouldn't open half the time. Now it too seems to be working properly.
I'll check them again in a few days. They'll probably still be fine. I didn't squirt lighter fluid in there and I only used machine oil on a toothpick to lightly oil the mechanism - and then actually brushed it to get some back off. Last thing I want is oil on the aperture or shutter blades (although I don't know if it can migrate from there to the shutter mechanism).
And - thanks. The 50mm makes the Bronica so much more interesting.
Do you know if the same sorts of problems with RB67 lenses can be solved in a similar way?

I'm glad to hear it worked. Just to be clear, I would never squirt lighter fluid in there- just dab it with a fine brush and soak it right up, until the old grease is gone. I don't know how machine oil will do- I used grease because that is what was there originally- but I think the main issue could be whether it will last as long, or possibly if it won't take the pressure as well. So long as it moves easily you're probably OK.
I don't know the RBs, but hey, I think it's worth a try!
 
I would never squirt lighter fluid in there

I didn't think you would - that was for the benefit of those who actually do squirt lighter fluid in there. As for grease - like I said, there was no sign of any in the 150mm and it looked like what was in the 50 was oil (and actually not really that much in there). On both, there was no sign of grease or oil on the ends of the "arms" that stick in and do the rotating.
 
I didn't think you would - that was for the benefit of those who actually do squirt lighter fluid in there. As for grease - like I said, there was no sign of any in the 150mm and it looked like what was in the 50 was oil (and actually not really that much in there). On both, there was no sign of grease or oil on the ends of the "arms" that stick in and do the rotating.

Gotcha. I'm glad they're working, and I could help out a fellow Bronican.
Strange about the 150 being completely dry. Maybe it had been "serviced" before by somebody, or a factory error?
 
Last edited:
Gotcha. I'm glad they're working, and I could help out a fellow Bronican.
Strange about the 150 being completely dry. Maybe it had been "serviced" before by somebody, or a factory error?

The screws were all pretty solidly locked on the 150 - I don't think it's ever been opened up. The screws in the 50 came out much easier, so I think that one was probably serviced at some point. I've had these for maybe 7 years. Not sure about before then.
Anyway - as for RB67. Not even remotely like the Bronica lenses. You get to the shutter from the front - you have to take the entire thing apart, actually.
 
6x6:
Agfa Isolette
Hasselblad 500c/m

6x7:
Mamiya 7ii (using the lenses on digital with Fuji GFX when I want color)

6x12:
Noblex 150ux

6x17:
Noblex 175ux
Fuji GF617
 
I just acquired an RZ67, there are a lot of decent bodies out there, and many lenses are quite cheap (especially the telephotos).
 
I just acquired an RZ67, there are a lot of decent bodies out there, and many lenses are quite cheap (especially the telephotos).

Enjoy and shoot more film! 👏
 
i’ve had around ten different Mamiya RB67 kits over the years. I currently own two.

For travel, a Rolleiflex K4A (currently sidelined, needs a CLA).

Selling my Hasselblad 553 ELX kit. Amazing system, dream of a camera, but I need a bit of extra cash unfortunately, and it gets shot the least.
 
No change here. I have been using the Hasselblad 503 CX and Hasselblad 903 SWC for many years.
 
I enjoy using my Sputnik. 1 square is for chumps.
 
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

Plaubel Peco Junior with 100mm f5.6 Symmar and Makina Pop Up Hood. Numerous 120 6.5x9cm Makina Roll Backs, and a few 6.5x9cm Makina Film/Plate Holders. And the Magnifying Hood. Lenses offered with the camera in the catalog I have. Top left 47mm F8 Super Angulon Compur, 65mm F6.8 Angulon Compur, 135mm F5.6 Symmar Compur, 150mm F9 Apo Ronar Compur, 150mm F5.6 Symmar Compur, 135mm F3.8 Xenar Compur, 180mm F5.6 Symmar Compur, and 210mm F5.6 Symmar Compur.
All boards light trapped final step coming up is painting the rear lensboards with flat black Krylon applied with brush.

Camera body fully light trapped and ready for test rolls and plates.
 
Salyut, Salyut-S, Kiev-88 6x6
Flexaret III 6x6
Semflex Oto 6x6
Diana F 6x6
Bronica S2, Bronica S2A 6x6, 6x4,5
Moskva-5 6x9, 6x6
Horseman 980 : 6x9, 6x7
 
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