What Medium Format Cameras Are Members Here Using?

[flavio81]

well, I've mostly stopped shooting 35mm, so at this point the ETRSi is my small portable camera. So I am very focused on maintaining portability. With grip and AEIII prism, the usability of the ETRSi is actually quite nice (I have the manual grip, which came with the camera when I bought it and I also have the smaller power grip which is actually very good.) and I do use it occasionally. I actually really like the ETRSi, and its big brother, the GS-1 (the prism on that is big!) and since 95% of my photos are in landscape orientation, the WLF doesn't bother me. I have taken portrait oriented photos with the WLF handheld, but I wouldn't try that with a live subject. The reversal I got used to reletively quickly, and now seems natural (especially that now most of my photography is upside-down on a 4x5 or larger.)

Yes, i fully understand. I have two ETRSi and one ETRS (silver), plus the 40/4 MC, 50/2.8 MC and PE, 75/2.8 MC, EII, and PE, 105/3.5 MC, 150/3.5 PE, 200/4.5 PE and the 1.4x PE teleconverter. Plus some accesories like the Motor Drive E (the original).

BTW, i don't know how many lenses do you already have, but the 150/4 (early mc) has an unfair reputation of being a "bad" lens. It is a very good lens, really.

If you don't like heavy weight, don't use the Motor Drive E! It weights about 900g or so and uses 8 AA batteries. I bought it because it's the only one to give you electric shutter release, which also allows it to have a remote cord connection. All the later 'winders' don't have a remote connection, nor electric release. Otherwise they're better in every regard.

If you're using the WLF, be careful. I carry my ETRSi inside my camera bag and one day, the WLF de-attached itself from its place (it's easy to push the viewfinder release button) and started scratching the focusing screen. Now I have a scratched focusing screen. The prisms, having more mass, seem to be more difficult to de-attach.

Additionally, the WLF has no protective glass between the focusing screen and the environment. I find this a design flaw on these (otherwise great) cameras. Dirt, grime, etc, thus easily gets inside the fresnel grooves. The Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya RB67 and C330, all of them have a protective glass over the focusing screen.

 

[abruzzi]

Additionally, the WLF has no protective glass between the focusing screen and the environment. I find this a design flaw on these (otherwise great) cameras. Dirt, grime, etc, thus easily gets inside the fresnel grooves. The Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya RB67 and C330, all of them have a protective glass over the focusing screen.

I've never seen a camera with a waist level finder with glass over the focusing screen--usually they are just simple metal hoods. I have a P67 and waitslevel finder and there is no protective glass.

 

[flavio81]

I've never seen a camera with a waist level finder with glass over the focusing screen--usually they are just simple metal hoods. I have a P67 and waitslevel finder and there is no protective glass.

They all have a protective glass over the focusing screen.

For example on the Pentax 6x7 the focusing screen has over it a fresnel, and then it has a protective glass. It's a 3-piece assembly. Yes, the WLF has no glass,but the focusing screen is protected. So, for example, you can't scratch the delicate fresnel. Or dirt doesn't get into the fresnel.

On the ETR series, the focusing screen is a 1-piece assembly, which has the focusing surface on one side and a fresnel on the other side. There is no protective glass on top, that's my point.

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

About the ETRS, I too, need to use the grip when I use the AE finder. Not really bothered by the bulk or weight. Using the AE finder without the grip is indeed awkward and not really nice to use. It is the same experience I had with Mamiya 645.

Marcelo.

 

[abruzzi]

They all have a protective glass over the focusing screen.

For example on the Pentax 6x7 the focusing screen has over it a fresnel, and then it has a protective glass. It's a 3-piece assembly. Yes, the WLF has no glass,but the focusing screen is protected. So, for example, you can't scratch the delicate fresnel. Or dirt doesn't get into the fresnel.

On the ETR series, the focusing screen is a 1-piece assembly, which has the focusing surface on one side and a fresnel on the other side. There is no protective glass on top, that's my point.

I though you were referencing the WLF assembly which (IME) almost never has any glass beyond the close-up magnifier. I've never had issues with the ETRSi focusing screen. I'm sure they can be damaged, but mine has never had issues.

 

[Radost]

I have fuji690III wide, RZ67, 645 tl pro II, certo six, perkeo II and E.
I end up shooting the perkeo 80% of the time

 

[Marcelo Paniagua]

Yes, i fully understand. I have two ETRSi and one ETRS (silver), plus the 40/4 MC, 50/2.8 MC and PE, 75/2.8 MC, EII, and PE, 105/3.5 MC, 150/3.5 PE, 200/4.5 PE and the 1.4x PE teleconverter. Plus some accesories like the Motor Drive E (the original).

BTW, i don't know how many lenses do you already have, but the 150/4 (early mc) has an unfair reputation of being a "bad" lens. It is a very good lens, really.

If you don't like heavy weight, don't use the Motor Drive E! It weights about 900g or so and uses 8 AA batteries. I bought it because it's the only one to give you electric shutter release, which also allows it to have a remote cord connection. All the later 'winders' don't have a remote connection, nor electric release. Otherwise they're better in every regard.

If you're using the WLF, be careful. I carry my ETRSi inside my camera bag and one day, the WLF de-attached itself from its place (it's easy to push the viewfinder release button) and started scratching the focusing screen. Now I have a scratched focusing screen. The prisms, having more mass, seem to be more difficult to de-attach.

Additionally, the WLF has no protective glass between the focusing screen and the environment. I find this a design flaw on these (otherwise great) cameras. Dirt, grime, etc, thus easily gets inside the fresnel grooves. The Pentax 6x7, the Mamiya RB67 and C330, all of them have a protective glass over the focusing screen.

Now I known how the focusing screen of my spare ETRS body got damaged.

 

[Swordman]

Bronica SQ-A with 80mm f2.8 S, 150mm f4 and 100mm (0r 110mm?) f4.5 macro. Beautiful system.

Fuji GW690ii - nice, but prone to fat rolls, frame overlap and has a rattley hot shoe, which could probably be easily fixed. Beautiful lens and produces excellent images.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The past week or so I've been carrying my "three folders" bag -- containing my White Russian Moskva 5, my Mamiya Six folder, and my Daiichi Zenobia.

 

[braxus]

I have sold some of my medium format cameras in the last 6 months, so this is what I now have:
The medium format cameras I have are:

Holga 120
Yashica A
Pentax 645N
Pentax 67II
Zeiss Ikon Nettar 517/2 6x9 Folder
Fuji GFX 50R (obviously not film here)

 

[Chuck1]

Baby crown graphic
Graflex xl

 

[Eff64]

Hasselblad 503CX, 501CM, 2000FCW. The 2k is my fave. Great having shutter speed up to 1/2000.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Hasselblad 500C/M
Bronica ETRS
Agfa Isoly
Kodak Brownie Hawkeye, modded.
Art Panorama 617 Back for 4x5 Graflok.
6x18 WWII Torpedo Bomber Camera

 

[Pieter12]

The past week or so I've been carrying my "three folders" bag -- containing my White Russian Moskva 5, my Mamiya Six folder, and my Daiichi Zenobia.

White Russian? From before the revolution?

 

[Drew B.]

Fuji GS645s and Bronica SQ-a

 

[Martin Frank]

Rollei 3.5E + Yashica EM, both recently overhauled + working great. I've had other Yashicas (124G, D) and Rolleis (3.5F, 'Cord V + Automat) in the past but these current 2 are my favorites

 

[Helge]

My most used currently is the Ikonta 521. Like this one. In fact I have four of them.

Except with a Tessar and a classic Ikophot meter

It’s smaller than any other medium format camera I’ve ever seen.
Not much larger than a Contax T.
Lack of rangefinder is a feature.
You don't need or want it as a distraction for quick documentary style photos.
For that, these type and generation of rangefinders are far too slow and imprecise.
Much better to hone a good sense of distance, and use from 5.6 and up.

On a tripod, for which it is eminently suited because it is so light (you don't need a big and heavy tripod), I use a Leica laser RF or an accessory RF.

Very good lens, Novar or Tessar. Flash sync to 500. M sync can be used for fluorescence afterglow photos.

Good film flatness for a folder due to small gate and 6x6 pressure plate.

OMAG close up lenses work wonderfully to get you down to 20 cm with little loss in quality.

 

[Donald Qualls]

White Russian? From before the revolution?

No, from Huss. Reskinned, IIRC before he got it.

 

[VoodooXT]

Bronica GS-1

Also have an old Yashica-A that needs to be CLA'd so I've been considering doing that so I can use it.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Well, currently, I'm NOT using either of my RZ67 bodies... while the glass for it is wonderful, they have proven themselves to be the least reliable cameras I have ever owned (and that's including a Seagull rangefinder!). So mostly the Rolleiflexes and the Lomos (LCA 120, Belair X-6/12). The occasional puttering around with a Holga. I did like the 6x7 format, but I don't see a Pentax 67 in my future.

 

[Don_ih]

while the glass for it is wonderful, they have proven themselves to be the least reliable cameras

I have 5 RB67 lenses. One shutter works properly. For now.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have 5 RB67 lenses. One shutter works properly. For now.

If it sits on the shelf long enough it will get to zero.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Apart from the 55mm wide angle. The one I had was so soft it could be used as a feather bed.

I had two just like yours. It's funny since I hear many folks praise the 55mm, but I'm sure they didn't have either of the one's that I had or they are totally blind if they did. I have several different medium format cameras, but if I had to pick just one to keep, it would be my Hassy SuperWide. That 38mm Biogon is in a class all by itself.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I have 5 RB67 lenses. One shutter works properly. For now.

I've got a 50, 90, 127, 180, and 250 -- of those, only the 127 has a slow shutter; the others are fine. And these were bottom feeder purchases, aside from the 90 that came with the body.

 

[Nokton48]

Hasselblad 500C/M 25th Anniversary
Hasselblad 500EL/M
Three Plaubel Makiflex Auto Iris
Two Plaubel Makiflex Standard
Two Mamiya C22
Two Mamiya C33
Mamiyaflex II
Minolta Autocord
Plaubel Makina II
Plaubel Makina IIIR