What is your setup for printing very large, e.g. 48" and up...

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chris77

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Any pics? Tips? reference material for getting set up using a standard enlarger?
its the first time i am writing this:
please use the search engine first.
the topic is huge and there is everything already available..
cheers,
chris
 

John Koehrer

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Film size?
There would be a number of physical restraints in doing something like this.
As a SWAG horizontal enlarger and a lot of floor space. and then how to process the film/print. Given that
film sizes are limited.
I hate to do this but a Good commercial lab would probably be a much better bet.
There was a project online years ago that made a large print using a pinhole enlarger across a large
room, then processing it on the floor of the room. Chemicals were applied with mops.
 

ac12

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You have to reconfigure the enlarger and the dry side of the darkroom.
  • Stack tables to raise the enlarger higher above the floor. This can be dangerous.
  • Rotate the head to project the image onto the wall.
  • Remove the baseboard, rotate the entire enlarger, and project onto the wall.
  • There are probably other methods to get the head far enough away from the paper.
The dry side is the easy part.

On the wet side.
  • You have to figure out HOW to process a print that large.
  • The only way that I've seen is
    • Put a BIG sheet of plastic on the floor.
    • Put the print onto the plastic
    • Have 3 or more guys (depending on the size of the print), using sponges and chemicals in buckets to
    • First put the developer on the paper.
    • then figure out how to remove the developer
    • then put the stop bath on the paper
    • then remove the stop bath
    • then put the fixer on the paper, probably a RAPID fixer.
    • then figure out how to wash the BIG print.
    • then figure out how to dry the BIG print.
    • Then clean up the mess on the floor of the darkroom.
Given the messy process, I would go to a commercial lab.
 

chris77

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dont listen to the naysayers.
it can be done.
you will have to build the trays (thats the best option), or at the very least build one, (ideally with a tap, for the ease of changing liquids).
its easier to do with an assistant.
project horizontal taking good care of parallelity and avoid vibration (trickier than it sounds).
good luck.
start somewhere around 30" and work your way up.
its a trip.
have fun.
chris
 
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wiltw

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Folks are somewhat dismissing the issue of image projection as 'easy'. It should not be forgotten that you have a rather formidable task of holding the paper FLAT against the projection plane.
Not just at the edges of the paper (where is it simple enough in concept to merely use drafting tape to hold the paper's edges to a wall!) but IN THE MIDDLE where the paper buckles outward from the wall in different places.
That is why process cameras (20 x 30" films) use vacuum holddowns, even though the acetate base has more inherent rigidity than paper does.
 

chris77

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Folks are somewhat dismissing the issue of image projection as 'easy'. It should not be forgotten that you have a rather formidable task of holding the paper FLAT against the projection plane.
Not just at the edges of the paper (where is it simple enough in concept to merely use drafting tape to hold the paper's edges to a wall!) but IN THE MIDDLE where the paper buckles outward from the wall in different places.
That is why process cameras (20 x 30" films) use vacuum holddowns, even though the acetate base has more inherent rigidity than paper does.
but we shouldnt forget that the dof on the film plane is very narrow. especially compared to the pretty comfortable dof on the paper..
 
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ChrisBCS

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Thank you everyone for indulging me. I have started using the search function in detail.

I understand that this is the super deep end of the pool, but being honest with myself, large printing is really why I got re-interested in film.
 

benjiboy

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I've never in more than sixty years ever taken a picture worth blowing up to "48 and up" :smile:
 

Mick Fagan

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I would use horizontal wall projection.

The simplest way to hold paper is with magnets. Place a thin metal sheet on a wall that has been checked for being parallel to your enlarger negative stage, then use small strong rare earth magnets sitting atop of steel rulers to hold the paper in place. As you are working with safe lights, you will be able to see the paper is really flat and correctly aligned.

In another world I did many a mural enlargement with the paper being held by magnets on a steel wall, easiest method I know.

Sheet steel is remarkably cheap, all things considered.

Mick.
 
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ChrisBCS

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Mick, thank you. I believe I've seen a video describing Ansel Adams using the magnets/straightedge on a metal wall with rails.
 
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I am not sure why there is any negativity above. It isn't rocket science. The biggest problem is going to be processing. Enlarging to that size is pretty straight forward. The easiest way is floor projection if you can turn your enlarger head around. Wall projection is going to be more difficult to get alignment, but easier on your back. Enlarging really only requires you to be exact in the alignment of the film and the lens. You have a little bit of play in the paper positioning, but it needs to be overall parallel to the film/lens. A little bulge won't affect your results. If you want to be anal about it, build a vacuum easel, but it isn't worth it IMO. The bigger you go, the more depth of field you are going to have. Smaller prints need to be more precise paradoxically. You might need to put a more powerful bulb in your enlarger depending on what enlarger you have. You also may want to use a regular or a macro lens rather than an enlarger lens. You may get better results. Rodenstock made a Rodogon G lens for big enlargements, but they are few and far between and pricey if you can even find one. A lot of people use process lenses like an APO Nikkor.

If you have space for trays then build those. Check out Clyde Butcher's darkroom on Youtube if you are curious. There are a lot of other vids on Youtube as well if you can find them. If you don't have space for trays, then you will have to be creative. Personally if I was going to print that large, I would have something made. There used to be an apparatus called a "color canoe" (I think) that was made for doing color prints. I would find a metalworker who could make one large enough to do the print size I wanted. Then just change out the chemicals. For washing the prints you can do it outside with a hose in a made up tray, a kiddie pool, or what ever else you can muster up.

I hope that helps you, and encourages you, to move forward.

Good luck!
 

chris77

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i have done prints 60x30 " and all i can recommend:
build the trays. i have tried a rain gutter, and i have done it with one tray, changing liquids..
if i were to do it again.. only with 4 trays... thats just my experience.
 

Ai Print

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Just decide you are going to do it, take the good information and make it happen.

I am planning on doing murals that size, have all equipment including Rodagon G mural lenses. While I can print fairly large floor to ceiling with my 4550XLG enlargers, I am going to convert a camera like a Sinar P2 to a geared horizontal mural enlarger that will work in tandem with a custom made easel that will swing down from the ceiling and pin into the floor. This will be a very easy to align system that will ensure the utmost precision for every printing session. I am having a custom made LED variable contrast light source made for the camera.

For the wet side, I plan on making a roller processor that will be somewhat similar to this.

Mine will use mesh cages for two different paper roll widths and be fairly automated with pumps for drain and fill. I look forward to making large prints in a very up to date darkroom that has been very well thought out.
 
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