What is wrong with Arista Paper?

[ozphoto]

I'd test using new developer (you mentioned the developer was depleted - that could cause problems) and also check the safelight.
I had to change one of mine to a much lower wattage bulb and also replace one of the filters due to age and fading - whilst it looked ok to my eyes, it was obvious my paper didn't love it.

I'd do a safelight test first before continuing to process with the paper - and mix new batch of chemicals for the test too - that way you only have 1 variable at a time to consider.

Hope you figure it out - I hate having these problems too, especially when I'm trying out new products!!

 

[clayne]

I honestly don't understand why everyone is so EAGER for this paper to fog under OC safelights. The fact that it doesn't (for me at least) seems to bother people...

I really think you should do a proper test and see what your results look like.

 

[JBrunner]

I honestly don't understand why everyone is so EAGER for this paper to fog under OC safelights. The fact that it doesn't (for me at least) seems to bother people...

Any time a new paper comes into the darkroom it is prudent to test. Many variables will cause paper to fog. It isn't just the kind of safelight, it's distance, intensity, direction,, even where the paper is exposed in relationship to where it has to go to be developed. This paper is known to have issues with other than red light. Nobody is "eager", it's just that is one likely culprit among a few possibilities. He isn't in your darkroom, and every darkroom is different.

 

[erikg]

From the Foma data sheet:

Safelighting
FOMASPEED VARIANT III is an ortochromatically sensitized photographic paper.
Therefore, a suitable safelighting differing from that for conventional photographic
papers should be used. Dark-red safelight filters for orthochromatic materials, e.g.
Kodak GBX-2, Ilford 906, Agfa R1, Osram Duka 50 etc. in connection with a 15 Watt
lamp are fully suitable. Because of its high speed, FOMASPEED VARIANT III should
be exposed to this safelighting only for a time prerequisite to handling.

I think the only thing people are eager to see happen is the OP solving his problem. Safelight seems likely, but it could just be a bad batch of paper too.

 

[thebdt]

EDIT: as I note in a later post, the datasheets given in this thread aren't even for the paper under discussion! And as someone finally relents, the PROPER datasheet indicates OC safelights are FINE!

I really think you should do a proper test and see what your results look like.

Considering the paper was already tested by a technician who has been doing this a lot longer than I have, I'd think another test would be nothing but a waste of paper. Besides, it's a busy lab (especially now that the semester is winding down), and there isn't space for people to run around leaving paper out at various positions relative to the safelight. But I'll be sure to let my professor know I'm on to her for duping me into buying inappropriate paper.

 

[thebdt]

From the Foma data sheet...

The datasheet you quote is for an RC paper; the PDF says it's Fomatone MG (says it right there at the top of the PDF). Now, the link is labeled "FOMASPEED VARIANT III MG," in spite of the fact that the PDF is for Fomatone MG. I wouldn't trust these datasheets, then, as even Foma can't decide which product they're talking about!

I, specifically, have Arista EDU Ultra, which is Fomabrom VC FB Variant 111 (or at least, that's what I understand it to be). Please show me the datasheet for Fomabrom VC FB Variant 111 that recommends red-safelight use only. Or better yet, show me a data sheet for Arista EDU Ultra, which is what this thread is about.

 

[erikg]

I thought that was the paper the OP was using. Here is Freestyle's data sheet. It does say that OC safelights are OK, given correct wattage, distance, time etc. I've used the FB version with no trouble but I have red safelights in my darkroom. It's a nice paper. Hopefully the OP will get to the bottom of his problem.

 

[thebdt]

This paper is known to have issues with other than red light.

Not according to the *acutal* datasheet, it's not.

Nobody is "eager"

Blundering in with a "refuting" datasheet, without bothering to check that the datasheet is in fact the correct one, seems pretty "eager" to me!

 

[Anon Ymous]

Not according to the *acutal* datasheet, it's not.

The actual datasheet is not very informative IMHO. It doesn't even have a spectral sensitivity chart. Yes, you can use "unsafe" safelights (to some extent) and get away with it, I certainly do. But if you do, make sure that your paper is exposed for a short time and/or the safelight is far away, and/or the safelight is dim. Safelight recommendations in the datasheet is certainly vague.

 

[JBrunner]

Not according to the *acutal* datasheet, it's not.



Blundering in with a "refuting" datasheet, without bothering to check that the datasheet is in fact the correct one, seems pretty "eager" to me!

Regardless, the thread isn't about you, your darkroom, or a data sheet. It's about a person who is having some trouble with a particular paper in a particular dark room. There are many possibilities, and safelight fogging is among them. A test is the only way to rule that out.

If you have something constructive to the problem to contribute, please do.

 

[ronlamarsh]

Maybe I was just frustrated with it. I have violated a cardinal rule when doing photography for critique or exhibition, that being stick with the materials you know. I was also jaded by some of the bad mouthing that the paper has gotten from instructors and such in my photo classes. As soon as I can get my darkroom built out at home, I will go back and test it there.

Arista EDU ultra is rebranded FOMA so in my humble esstimation it is excellent paper, just different. Compared to the ilford I have used it seems to have a longer scale(less contrast for the same filtration)and it doesn't have as pure a white base as ilford that through me off at first also. That said in the right developer I find it gives a more pleasing print, richer to my eyes. Try LPD 4:1 and use the next step up in filter or develope your negs for more contrast.