What is the minimum depth of paper developer in your tray when processing fibre paper

[Todd Barlow]

Regardless of tray size, what depth of developer do you have in your tray when processing fibre paper?

 

[DWThomas]

Typically for me that number varies with tray size. Once I get into 11x14 or above, I like good depth to allow quickly immersing the sheet in spite of curl. At smaller postcard sizes that is usually less of a problem. Being cheap, I also may hold back if I'm only doing a small number of prints. Anyway I guess I typically range between 1/4 or so in small (5x7") trays, and 3/4 inch in larger trays.

 

[Nihil Abstat]

Are you serious?

 

[mshchem]

I never really thought about depth. I usually make a quart of working solution , this works for 90% of my printing 8x10 and 11x14 trays. I will keep working solution in a FULL bottle for a few days-week then toss. If you want to use a small volume use a print drum or a rocking print tray. The old Nikor rocking print trays are great.
Not really sure what you are asking here. As long as you get uniform development,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Back in the really old days Pako made huge "dopers" giant rocking tanks where a worker would be developing hundreds of contact prints constantly, as the prints reached full development, they would be transferred into a huge rocking Fixer bath and so on. I remember when I was a kid watching a professional photographer develop at least 100 wallet prints in about 5 minutes, big deep trays with gallon or more developer. He just kept them moving.
Best Mike

 

[MattKing]

I mostly work with RC paper, but I think some of these observations are relevant.
The answer depends on your trays. I have flat bottom trays, trays with large ribs on the bottom, trays with small ribs on the bottom and I've considered acquiring trays with a dimpled bottom surface. As you need to have enough solution above the ribs/texture, the answer will vary with tray type.
I prefer to have enough solution to be able to develop at least two prints together back to back. That requires a reasonable depth of solution.
Those times when I am printing in quantity - think postcard exchange - I prefer to be able to develop at least 6 or so cards together and shuffle.
That requires a fair amount of developer.
If you use a longer life developer - one that you may use over several sessions and may actually replenish - than it is worthwhile to use more, because there is less waste.
I like to use 11"x14" trays. Two US quarts/two litres work well. That suits me, because my storage bottles are also two quart size.

 

[bence8810]

I normally work with 5x7 paper and I use matching small trays which I fill with 250ml of developer, it must not be more than 1cm, I'd say perhaps 7,5mm.
I constantly rock the tray so it covers the paper and works well for me. If the paper has a considerable curl, I put it face down so the developer can better get to it while it soaks up the liquid and flattens out.

I use flat-bottom trays so that helps in reducing the amount of fluid.

Ben

 

[removed account4]

hi todd

sorry for sounding like a smart aleck but i use " just enough"

 

[Theo Sulphate]

My trays have small ribs. Although I develop one print at a time, I like plenty of the solution surrounding and flowing over the print, so: 1/2 inch.

 

[wiltw]

Consider also that your developer has a stated capacity. Assuming Dektol capacity is 120 8 x10's per gallon or 30 per quart, capacity is very roughly 1 print per ounce (actually a bit less). So if you have 8 ounces in a tray, you need to throw it out after 8 prints. So in part how much you put in the tray is driven by how many prints you want to make in a session.

16 fluid ounces occupy 29 cubic inches of volume. Assuming your trays were 9" x 12", 16 ounces fills the tray to 0.25", and processes 15-16 8x10 prints. The important factor in the 'how much developer' question is the rapid wetting of the entire print emulsion. One can place double weight paper face down but you need to ensure that air bubbles trapped underneath are dispelled. Kodak used to also recommend single weight paper be inserted face UP, so you need to make sure you have enough solution to wet the entire face up print rapidly.

Some instructors of darkroom technique recommend about 64+ fl. oz. in 12 x 16 tray to process 11x14 prints...that works out to a depth of 0.8", but this is to accomodate multiple simultaneous prints in a shared darkroom. OTOH, folks have described processing "with fluid level from just barely enough to well over 1/2 full"

 

[Kawaiithulhu]

Depth probably about 12" inches.

Snarky reply since I picked up a slot processor to better fit my small bathroom area...

 

[mooseontheloose]

I almost always develop in 9x12 trays and use 2L of solution per tray. I don't know what the depth is, but it gives me enough for multiple prints (postcard exchange), very curly paper (like Art 300), and especially for lith, allows me to develop more prints over a longer period of time (depending on the paper). If I use 8x10 trays then a litre per tray is usually enough.

 

[BMbikerider]

If you put a couple of drops of wetting agent into the diluted developer and slide the paper in face down you can actually get away with very little so long as some movement is kept up during the development which eliminates any risk of uneven development. Actually, as modern papers/developers are so stable you can develop way over the recommended time without risk of staining or fogging. For instance Ilford develop times for resin coated are 45 seconds I regularly develop for up to 1 minute and even brush on undiluted developer to light areas just to bring out subtle tones.

 

[mdarnton]

I tended to base that on how many prints I was going to make. If it was an all-day session with lots of prints, lots of dev. Really, I prefer it to be pretty deep, but I don't see any sense wasting a quart of developer for one print. So for one print, mabye four ounces.

 

[jim10219]

I use LPD, so I usually have about 3/4-1" of developer in my tray. It makes dealing with paper curl and developer exhaustion easier. Plus, since I reuse my developer, waste isn't really an issue. So it's better to use too much than too little.

 

[MattKing]

Are you serious?

Why the attitude?
The OP's question is an excellent one - particularly if they haven't had the benefit of learning from others who have extensive and varied experience in darkrooms.
And the responses have been excellent. They are full of information that can assist those who are learning from books or the internet or any other source that doesn't permit the sort of informed and easy exchange of perspective and the results of hard earned experience.
If someone new to the darkroom reads this thread, they will pick up all sorts of good and helpful tips. And those of us who aren't new to the darkroom are just as likely to benefit as well.

 

[wiltw]

'It depends!'.

• If I want to sit to bath in the walkin tub in my mother's house, enought to cover the shoulders while seated
• If I want to sit to bath in the jacuzzi tub in my friend's house, enough to cover the shoulders while slouched in the bottom of the Jacuzzi jets
• If I want to bath while on bivouac during Army manuevers, one helmet liner full.

No attitude, just my response.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Inches? I'm confused.
I like my soup in large tray with smaller print and to have it shallow.
This allows me to apply developer partially, if I need it.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Inches? I'm confused.
I like my soup in large tray with smaller print and to have it shallow.
This allows me to apply developer partially, if I need it.

I do not use soup in the darkroom. It stays in the kitchen. I use photo chemicals and water on the darkroom. I hope that clears up your confusion as well as any staining on negatives and prints. Remember no soup in the darkroom.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I do not use soup in the darkroom. It stays in the kitchen. I use photo chemicals and water on the darkroom. I hope that clears up your confusion as well as any staining on negatives and prints. Remember no soup in the darkroom.

Actually, I do staining of my prints with black tea. ( . )

 

[Gerald C Koch]

The amount of developer is determined by the number of prints you intend to make in a session. However here IS a minimum amount to ensure that the paper is completely covered.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Actually, I do staining of my prints with black tea. ( . )

Others do it with fingerprints.