What is the difference between PUSH and N+1

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DREW WILEY

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Doremus, I think you're making a broad generalization that tends to fall apart in the real world. Difference films can behave in different manners, and one cannot escape the need to be familiar with the specifics through sheer experience. And while the terms "push" or "pull" might be necessary to communicate with a lab, or Zone System lingo to much of the traditional black and white crowd, or Kodak-speak to that set, it's still not a bullseye. When I shoot I might actually label my shots for Zone-style categories of development, plus or minus, but at the time of the shot I really am visualizing the actual film curve in relation to my intended development regimen. And my film will be chosen in relation to the specific nature of the scene, or the lighting conditions I am most likely to encounter, and how I want it to print. All of this can get pretty intimidating to a beginner, who is trying to previsualize way too many variables at once. Better to stick to a single film and developer and printing style until one learns its boundaries first. With a bit of momentum, a few minutes in the darkroom with a few test strips will tell you more than four thousand pages of reading about the theory of this all. Classic old manuals like AA's "The Negative" can be a good
introduction, but something like this still assumes you want your scenes to come out like he did, even if the same films were still available.
But to some extent, it is efficient to learn the rules before deliberately breaking them.
 

Bill Burk

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Okay I'm not going to argue about the differences anymore, it's clear we have different views on that, however, question to you is what if I am exposing properly for the scene, and then increase my development time in order to increase the highlights, purposefully, just because I like that look? I'm not doing it for the shadow detail, I'm doing it to increase the highlights, by your description, I'm exposing properly for the scene and extending times, but not for show/midtones so is that N+1/+2 or pushing 1-2 stops?

You are using Zone System Previsualization a-la Minor White, and selecting N+1 development to obtain a more abstract result instead of using the Zone System N+1 to expand a short-range subject. The exposure for the shadows and the time in the developer would be the same for both purposes... In one case, the literal foggy day with N+1, you are getting a better, more full-ranged negative from a flat subject. But in your case, N+1 gives a higher contrast negative than the scene would need for a literal representation. You are going for something else, a stylized look.
 
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Doremus, I think you're making a broad generalization that tends to fall apart in the real world. Difference films can behave in different manners, and one cannot escape the need to be familiar with the specifics through sheer experience. And while the terms "push" or "pull" might be necessary to communicate with a lab, or Zone System lingo to much of the traditional black and white crowd, or Kodak-speak to that set, it's still not a bullseye. When I shoot I might actually label my shots for Zone-style categories of development, plus or minus, but at the time of the shot I really am visualizing the actual film curve in relation to my intended development regimen. And my film will be chosen in relation to the specific nature of the scene, or the lighting conditions I am most likely to encounter, and how I want it to print. All of this can get pretty intimidating to a beginner, who is trying to previsualize way too many variables at once. Better to stick to a single film and developer and printing style until one learns its boundaries first. With a bit of momentum, a few minutes in the darkroom with a few test strips will tell you more than four thousand pages of reading about the theory of this all. Classic old manuals like AA's "The Negative" can be a good
introduction, but something like this still assumes you want your scenes to come out like he did, even if the same films were still available.
But to some extent, it is efficient to learn the rules before deliberately breaking them.

Drew,
I agree, I am making broad generalizations and intentionally leaving out a ton of specifics and (more complicated) details. I do this to be able to draw a more distinct, if albeit somewhat inaccurate, distinction. As in all borders between things and ideas, the closer one examines something, the more blurred and complicated things become (life is a fractal).

However, what I'm really getting at, under the technical tone of my response, is the semantic and practical differences between "pushing" film as a stop-gap measure to compensate for underexposure and other intentional changes in development that are performed on negatives that have been not underexposed, i.e., with the shadow exposure that the photographer wants. Zone System parlance comes easy to me and was used in the thread, so I simply addressed the issue in those terms.

However, I guess there is an overlap in the two approaches (as Stone is pointing out). If one likes the look of "pushed" film, i.e., dark, featureless shadows and snappy, contrasty high values (no value judgment here at all! I like the look of a lot of "pushed" work), then one could argue that one was exposing the shadows as desired and developing to get the desired highlight values in just the same way a "West-Coast School" Zone System photographer would. It is only the desired result that is different.

Mostly, however, I think that a lot of "pushing" happens because the photographer is in a situation that simply exceeds the limitations of the film he/she is using and the development increase is used to salvage what can be saved from the underexposed negatives.

As for different films behaving in different manners, while this is certainly true, it is really beside the point. Of course, we should learn our tools and know how to use them properly. I'm really addressing something else: the difference between planning an image and carefully metering to get what we want (whether it be the "West Coast" look or the "Brett Weston Blank Shadow" look, or the "Rock Concert Pushed-Processed" look) and the need to sometimes make the best of a bad situation and overdevelop film that we would have liked to give more exposure to. This latter is what I call "pushing" and represents a compromise.

That said, those are just the way I use the terms in order to keep my own thinking clear and, basically, what I was trying to say with my post above.

Best,

Doremus
 

StoneNYC

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You are using Zone System Previsualization a-la Minor White, and selecting N+1 development to obtain a more abstract result instead of using the Zone System N+1 to expand a short-range subject. The exposure for the shadows and the time in the developer would be the same for both purposes... In one case, the literal foggy day with N+1, you are getting a better, more full-ranged negative from a flat subject. But in your case, N+1 gives a higher contrast negative than the scene would need for a literal representation. You are going for something else, a stylized look.

I would note I don't ALWAYS do this, but often I do for specific things.

:smile:
 

DREW WILEY

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Doremus - that "West Coast School" had some inherent polarities. You had the theorist, AA, who tended to gravitate toward compensating developers
and minus technique when necessary (with slight overexp) to give his mandated full range of tonalities, but often at the expense of the mids. Then you had BW, who'd basically underexpose to deliberately chop off the deep shadows, then overdev to give wonderful midtone and highlight expansion, to suit his
bold graphic style. Then you had the contact printers like Wynn Bullock and EW, who only had to present small areas of black, since the total print was itself small, but often used rather different papers with long scale like Azo. I know how to do all these things and quite a few more. When I want that
BW look, I choose a long-scale film with a steep toe. TMY400 is esp good for this, because if you underexpose it, the shadows drop hard. But at the
same time, you can easily dig way down into Zone 1 or even zero with a film like this and an appropriate developer. I was quite an admirer of BW when I
started LF photography, and even though I only did color printing at that time, I spotted a particular subject that I thought would be a nice homage to
him and appropriately printed it with a bold graphic all-black feature to it. Then of all things, BW himself noticed that very image thru the window of my venue, left me a nice note, and purchased a couple of my color prints, even though he never printed color himself.
 

removed account4

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Cliveh: All photographs are illusions.

i was waiting for this .. because i think people forget
nothing is a literal representation of anything when it comes to photography.
film records, sort of, makes something else, color pallet of film shows other things
and if it is b/w forget it, the whole concept of converting an alleged color-world onto
a black white and grey canvas is an abstraction anyhow ...

its all an illusion, even the though of thinking something is an exact representation ...
people with cameras manipulate time from slow to fast and everything inbetween ....

getting back to the OP ..

they are sort of the same and sort of different ... kindasorta.
 

StoneNYC

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Doremus - that "West Coast School" had some inherent polarities. You had the theorist, AA, who tended to gravitate toward compensating developers
and minus technique when necessary (with slight overexp) to give his mandated full range of tonalities, but often at the expense of the mids. Then you had BW, who'd basically underexpose to deliberately chop off the deep shadows, then overdev to give wonderful midtone and highlight expansion, to suit his
bold graphic style. Then you had the contact printers like Wynn Bullock and EW, who only had to present small areas of black, since the total print was itself small, but often used rather different papers with long scale like Azo. I know how to do all these things and quite a few more. When I want that
BW look, I choose a long-scale film with a steep toe. TMY400 is esp good for this, because if you underexpose it, the shadows drop hard. But at the
same time, you can easily dig way down into Zone 1 or even zero with a film like this and an appropriate developer. I was quite an admirer of BW when I
started LF photography, and even though I only did color printing at that time, I spotted a particular subject that I thought would be a nice homage to
him and appropriately printed it with a bold graphic all-black feature to it. Then of all things, BW himself noticed that very image thru the window of my venue, left me a nice note, and purchased a couple of my color prints, even though he never printed color himself.

Cool story... Who are there acronyms.... Seriously besides AA I don't know...
 

MattKing

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Cool story... Who are there acronyms.... Seriously besides AA I don't know...

BW = Brett Weston, and EW = Edward Weston??
 
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