What is the best analog camera?

[Paul Howell]

Just to add to the Buffet of choices Konica T3, all mechanical with shutter preferred or manual exposure, nice range of lens, the 57 1.7 is razor sharp. As the mount is orphaned the core line up lens, 28, 25, 50, 135 and 200 are inexpensive, all good performers. A little award but has mirror lock up, a full read out in the viewfinder.

 

[mgb74]

Do you have to perform 'stopdown metering' with these things?

I've handled one (and it seemed beautifully built) but didn't get to shoot with it.

The Spotmatic F will meter full aperture, but only when using "Super Multi Coated Takumar" lenses. Although some of the later "Super Takumars" do have the necessary linkage.

They are very well built (and I also think beautiful). But earlier models (like the SPII) did need to be stopped down. The F can supposedly use current alkaline 625 batteries without issue.

 

[elcabezagrande]

There is only one SLR camera ever build with fully manual (=all shutter speeds working without batteries) and with aperture priority auto exposure: nikon FM3A.

Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.

 

[trythis]

Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.

And fits the OP $200 max price where the FM3A is twice that.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The best analog camera is the camera that I own.

 

[Les Sarile]

There is only one SLR camera ever build with fully manual (=all shutter speeds working without batteries) and with aperture priority auto exposure: nikon FM3A.

Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.

The Chinon Memotron - depending on which specific model, does predate the 2001 Nikon FM3A but it only has sync speed available when batteries are dead.

 

[darkosaric]

The Chinon Memotron - depending on which specific model, does predate the 2001 Nikon FM3A but it only has sync speed available when batteries are dead.

Often I get those replies that camera xyz has the same shutter possibilities as FM3A. I have specially put in bold all shutter speeds - people don't understand how unique shutter in FM3A really is.
Some shutter speeds are working without batteries in many AE capable cameras (nikon F3, Leica M7 ...), but FM3A is truly unique camera in shutter design.


p.s. I don't own FM3A.

 

[darkosaric]

The best analog camera is the camera that I own.

Best camera is the camera that I have with me. Right now if the "decisive moment" comes - my XA2 that I have with me is better than my M6 that stayed at home .

 

[zanxion72]

Speaking of tinny cameras that do the job well, the Minolta AF-s should be considered. Small, silent, quick and no hassle with focusing make it an excellent pocket camera for everyday street shooting.

 

[blockend]

Assuming the OP's 200AUS (£117) is for a camera body and 50mm, some of the gear mentioned is completely out of his budget. Recent years have seen big rises in name M42 lenses, and the glass alone would swallow his cash. People trying their hand at film photography do not want to make the same investment as people here, they want a reliable 35mm manual camera that comes in on cost.

 

[darkosaric]

OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.

EDIT: if one wants something on the budget: I paid nikon F70 3€, works great, with some 28-80 nikkor lens - you have fantastic camera set for 20€ or so.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.

EDIT: if one wants something on the budget: I paid nikon F70 3€, works great, with some 28-80 nikkor lens - you have fantastic camera set for 20€ or so.

Since the OP is new to film cameras, I took those requirements to mean: a mechanical camera with an electronic exposure meter - not a hybrid like the FM3a which can be fully mechanical and also offers automatic exposure by electronic controls.

The "best" is hard to pick -- however there are more than a few that are good enough and also inexpensive and easy to find:

Nikon FM series
Nikkormat FT series
Canon FTb or even a Canonet rangefinder
Minolta SRT-101
Pentax K series or Spotmatics
Olympus OM-1

Plenty more, but the ones above are common, easy to find in working condition, and inexpensive.

 

[blockend]

Since the OP is new to film cameras, I took those requirements to mean: a mechanical camera with an electronic exposure meter - not a hybrid like the FM3a which can be fully mechanical and also offers automatic exposure by electronic controls.

Yes, so did I. The problem with these threads is what seems a straightforward question can be as complex as people make it. Best stick to budget first, or replies veer into camera exotica, different film formats and a catalogue of every camera ever made.

 

[mynewcolour]

OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.

Go back and read carefully.

Either;

1/ fully manual

or

2/ mechanical with auto

One or the other. Not both. There are thousands of cameras that fit the bill.

Everyone be cool

 

[mynewcolour]

Assuming the OP's 200AUS (£117) is for a camera body and 50mm, some of the gear mentioned is completely out of his budget. Recent years have seen big rises in name M42 lenses, and the glass alone would swallow his cash. People trying their hand at film photography do not want to make the same investment as people here, they want a reliable 35mm manual camera that comes in on cost.

Can you suggest a mount type for lenses that haven't had a recent price rise?

You have your pick of Spotmatic+standard-lens cameras for 100 bucks.

 

[blockend]

Can you suggest a mount type for lenses that haven't had a recent price rise?

You have your pick of Spotmatic + 50mm cameras for 100 bucks.

My point was M42 lenses used to be less expensive than dedicated bayonet mounts. Now a screw thread Pentax Super Takumar is likely to cost at least as much the K-Mount equivalent or any other manufacturer's lenses. In order of expense (lowest first) are: FSU and 3rd party no-brand, non-mainstream branded lenses (Chinon, Petri, Miranda, etc) and 3rd party brands (Vivitar Series1, Kiron, Tokina), orphan mounts (Canon FD, Minolta MD, Rollei, etc), extant mounts with digital application (Nikon, Canon, Sony, et al), cult brands (Leica, Alpa, Angenieux, etc).

Obviously there's overlap - some Soviet lenses are desirable and pricey, some orphan mounts ditto especially wide aperture varieties, but the general trend is as shown. This only reflects market trends, not optical quality. The OP can pick up a good camera with 50mm 1.8/2 within his budget, I agree.

 

[mshchem]

Pentax Spotmatic or Nikon F2. Both are great cameras, F2 is built like a tank. Both use battery for meter only. My first camera was a Spotmatic, a lovely camera the screwmount works fine. I also love Nikon F2 series. Don't buy a F2S as the meter has LEDs that drain the batteries. Find a camera in GREAT shape, stick with a 50mm, however sometimes you can get a bunch of stuff for next to nothing. Stop at Garage sales etc.
Something else to consider is a fine example of a 6x6 twin lens like a Yashica.

The Pentax has a average meter and is almost foolproof to get decent photos. Older Pentax camera used a Mercury battery but Pentax camera have proper circuitry that allows the use of an Alkaline equivalent.


Best Regards, Mike

 

[mynewcolour]

My point was M42 lenses used to be less expensive than dedicated bayonet mounts. Now a screw thread Pentax Super Takumar is likely to cost at least as much the K-Mount equivalent or any other manufacturer's lenses.

Luckily there remains a glut of m42 bodies with standards lenses, so they are still cheap (and within budget).

I'm not sure how critical a point on market fluctuations is to the OP, that's not for me to say.

I will say that the suggestion M42 'glass alone will swallow his cash' is steeming reindeer poop!

 

[Chan Tran]

Fully mechanical and yet offer automatic exposure control?
I don't think the OP would agree but here is my suggestion.
A Nikon F2 with plain prism viewfinder and it's 100% mechanical.
Add a DP-2, DP-3 or DP-12 viewfinder and it has center weighted meter.
Add a DS-1, DS-2 or DS-12 Automatic aperture control unit and you have shutter priority automation.
Of course they are quite expensive and difficult to find all the pieces today.

 

[jvo]

OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.

EDIT: if one wants something on the budget: I paid nikon F70 3€, works great, with some 28-80 nikkor lens - you have fantastic camera set for 20€ or so.

in fact the pentax spotmatic also fits his requirements - mechanical shutter and aperture... battery runs the meter only. solid, well-made, inexpensive, many available (in aus?) and easily under $200 aussie$

 

[blockend]

I will say that the suggestion M42 'glass alone will swallow his cash' is steeming reindeer poop!

Currently on eBay, a nice, clean Super Tak 50mm 1.4 @ £99.99 and £134.56, or 55mm f2 @£63.00

Any from Spotmatic, Nikkormat, FTb, SRT, and many others will fit the bill, but beware battery issues.

 

[mynewcolour]

Currently on eBay, a nice, clean Super Tak 50mm 1.4 @ £99.99 and £134.56, or 55mm f2 @£63.00

I don't dispute there are some 'expensive' m42 lenses. But if you search properly (in the correct country) ...

Spotmatics with a lens, available in Aus, under 200 bucks:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&Bundled%20Items=Lens&_nkw=Pentax Spotmatic&_dcat=15230&rt=nc&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo&_udhi=200

 

[wiltw]

The issue is not necessarily 'electronically timed' vs 'mechanically timed'. For example, the Olympus OM-4 and OM-10 both use electronically timed shutters, yet the OM-10 shutter was notoriously bad for longevity...the OM-4 was not similarly afflicted.

The issue you may run into with any mechanically timed camera is simply that lubricants could well be 50 years old and have gotten gummy, if a CLA has not refreshed the lubricants in more recent years. And gummy timing mechanisms may well run slow! Or, being stored with the shutter cocked for 30 years could have weakened the springs.

The other issue with older mechanical cameras with meters is that the meter often depends upon mercury oxide battery with its constant 1.35v output. So you need to either use Wein air cell batteries, or use some type of adapter to convert the 1.5v silver oxide down to the needed 1.35v

 

[Sirius Glass]

The best analog camera is the camera that I own.

In the past, before the advent of digital, the best analog cameras were just beyond what one could afford.

 

[flavio81]

View attachment 169588


I have done very good work with a vintage Pentax Spotmatic, it is a nice simple reliable manual camera on which it is easy to learn the fundamentals of photography. Both the body and the lenses are inexpensive, in the USA US$50-100 buys a body and a very good standard Pentax 50mm lens. There are a gazillion used lenses (M42 mount) out there that fit the body, at all price points and quality. Use the "sunny 16 rule" for exposure estimation. You can't go wrong.

PS the attitude that electronic shutters are unreliable is not supported by the experiences of millions of photographers. Yes they can fail but so can mechanical shutters, much depends on the quality of the parts used to make the shutter, which often is related to cost.

The Pentax Spotmatics are a bargain because by modern standards they are obsolete and unwanted, not because they were cheap to begin with, they were well made.

I'd also recommend the spotmatic over the K1000. The spottie is better built, and there are more quality lenses available for it.

For K-mount cameras the MX and ME Super are really good and overall better "compact" cameras than the overrated Olympus OM-1 and 2.