Do you have to perform 'stopdown metering' with these things?
I've handled one (and it seemed beautifully built) but didn't get to shoot with it.
Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.There is only one SLR camera ever build with fully manual (=all shutter speeds working without batteries) and with aperture priority auto exposure: nikon FM3A.
And fits the OP $200 max price where the FM3A is twice that.Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.
There is only one SLR camera ever build with fully manual (=all shutter speeds working without batteries) and with aperture priority auto exposure: nikon FM3A.
Not quite. The Chinon Memotron beat the FM3A to this by several years.
The Chinon Memotron - depending on which specific model, does predate the 2001 Nikon FM3A but it only has sync speed available when batteries are dead.
The best analog camera is the camera that I own.
OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.
EDIT: if one wants something on the budget: I paid nikon F70 3€, works great, with some 28-80 nikkor lens - you have fantastic camera set for 20€ or so.
Yes, so did I. The problem with these threads is what seems a straightforward question can be as complex as people make it. Best stick to budget first, or replies veer into camera exotica, different film formats and a catalogue of every camera ever made.Since the OP is new to film cameras, I took those requirements to mean: a mechanical camera with an electronic exposure meter - not a hybrid like the FM3a which can be fully mechanical and also offers automatic exposure by electronic controls.
OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.
Assuming the OP's 200AUS (£117) is for a camera body and 50mm, some of the gear mentioned is completely out of his budget. Recent years have seen big rises in name M42 lenses, and the glass alone would swallow his cash. People trying their hand at film photography do not want to make the same investment as people here, they want a reliable 35mm manual camera that comes in on cost.
My point was M42 lenses used to be less expensive than dedicated bayonet mounts. Now a screw thread Pentax Super Takumar is likely to cost at least as much the K-Mount equivalent or any other manufacturer's lenses. In order of expense (lowest first) are: FSU and 3rd party no-brand, non-mainstream branded lenses (Chinon, Petri, Miranda, etc) and 3rd party brands (Vivitar Series1, Kiron, Tokina), orphan mounts (Canon FD, Minolta MD, Rollei, etc), extant mounts with digital application (Nikon, Canon, Sony, et al), cult brands (Leica, Alpa, Angenieux, etc).Can you suggest a mount type for lenses that haven't had a recent price rise?
You have your pick of Spotmatic + 50mm cameras for 100 bucks.
My point was M42 lenses used to be less expensive than dedicated bayonet mounts. Now a screw thread Pentax Super Takumar is likely to cost at least as much the K-Mount equivalent or any other manufacturer's lenses.
OP stated that he wants fully manual or mechanical with auto exposure. Then only one camera fulfill this need (FM3A). But he needs to pay more than planned.
EDIT: if one wants something on the budget: I paid nikon F70 3€, works great, with some 28-80 nikkor lens - you have fantastic camera set for 20€ or so.
Currently on eBay, a nice, clean Super Tak 50mm 1.4 @ £99.99 and £134.56, or 55mm f2 @£63.00I will say that the suggestion M42 'glass alone will swallow his cash' is steeming reindeer poop!
Currently on eBay, a nice, clean Super Tak 50mm 1.4 @ £99.99 and £134.56, or 55mm f2 @£63.00
The best analog camera is the camera that I own.
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I have done very good work with a vintage Pentax Spotmatic, it is a nice simple reliable manual camera on which it is easy to learn the fundamentals of photography. Both the body and the lenses are inexpensive, in the USA US$50-100 buys a body and a very good standard Pentax 50mm lens. There are a gazillion used lenses (M42 mount) out there that fit the body, at all price points and quality. Use the "sunny 16 rule" for exposure estimation. You can't go wrong.
PS the attitude that electronic shutters are unreliable is not supported by the experiences of millions of photographers. Yes they can fail but so can mechanical shutters, much depends on the quality of the parts used to make the shutter, which often is related to cost.
The Pentax Spotmatics are a bargain because by modern standards they are obsolete and unwanted, not because they were cheap to begin with, they were well made.
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