What is a good coil to roll and process 110 film?

[fabulousrice]

I have been developing 35mm film for a few weeks now but have been going to the lab because I don't have a 110 coil.
I love the Paterson coil system that makes it really easy to roll the film onto the coil, and I wonder if there is a similar thing for 110?

I will take any recommendations for a 110 coil

 

[Cholentpot]

There are metal reels for 110 out there but they're rare and expensive. I lucked out and found one in a darkroom cleanup. The other option is Etsy, there's someone on there who 3D prints reels. They're not easy to load until you break them in and they don't fit on all columns of Patterson style tanks. But it's really all we've got.

 

[BAC1967]

If you want plastic the Yankee Clipper II roll film tank does 110. I think that's the only reason I hang on to mine.

 

[Cholentpot]

If you want plastic the Yankee Clipper II roll film tank does 110. I think that's the only reason I hang on to mine.

I have three of them. I forgot about those. They work too.

 

[fabulousrice]

I have three of them. I forgot about those. They work too.

Which model? Are you selling?

 

[waynecrider]

You can alter a Patterson reel to work. Easy to do and works perfectly. Check for a thread which tells how to do it.

 

[MattKing]

Which model? Are you selling?

A new one can be found here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/895914-REG/Yankee_rfc_15t_Clipper_II_Roll_Film.html

If you find a really old version that references 16mm film, it should work too.
You can't invert them - figure 8 agitation is probably the best option.
You may also find them in an old version that can be adjusted as large as 65mm/116/616 film.
As a special purpose tank for unusual film sizes, they fill a need.
But for more commonly used film sizes, IMHO Paterson or Hewes or JOBO are better options.

 

[Cholentpot]

Which model? Are you selling?

I can give you the model but It'd be cheaper to find one on ebay I think. Yankee clipper II.

 

[brbo]

Jobo has a 110 reel for their 1500 series tanks.

 

[ic-racer]

I have the stainless steel 16mm reels and the Jobo 16mm reels. The Jobo are nice because you can load two rolls on each reel. The stainless steel reels are nice because they only touch the film on the sprocket hole side, so there is better development on the image side of quarter frame. Take your pick.

 

[xkaes]

The best is the Yankee MASTER developing tank. Takes TWO 110/16mm rolls at once. Cheap on EBAY. It's also easy to modify Paterson, etc. reels for 110, 16mm & Minox use:

http://www.subclub.org/creative/reel.htm

 

[fabulousrice]

A new one can be found here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/895914-REG/Yankee_rfc_15t_Clipper_II_Roll_Film.html

If you find a really old version that references 16mm film, it should work too.
You can't invert them - figure 8 agitation is probably the best option.
You may also find them in an old version that can be adjusted as large as 65mm/116/616 film.
As a special purpose tank for unusual film sizes, they fill a need.
But for more commonly used film sizes, IMHO Paterson or Hewes or JOBO are better options.

"You can't invert them - figure 8 agitation is probably the best option"
I don't know what this means

 

[MattKing]

"You can't invert them - figure 8 agitation is probably the best option"
I don't know what this means

Well, if you invert them, all the developer will just pour out. The light trap doesn't stop liquid from pouring out. So you can't invert the tank.
So, given that you still need to thoroughly and regularly and at least somewhat randomly agitate the developer and other chemicals used, you are left with a couple of options.
One is to use a rotating agitator that one inserts into the top of the tank and twists back and forth. Historically, I did not have good results with that in terms of evenness of development.
Another option that has worked okay for me and others is to slide the full tank around on a smooth counter-top. The easiest way to do that in a manner that adds some randomness to the movement of the liquid in the tank is to move the tank in a "figure 8" pattern, varying the speed randomly throughout the movement.

 

[tahomaphoto]

Well, if you invert them, all the developer will just pour out. The light trap doesn't stop liquid from pouring out. So you can't invert the tank.
So, given that you still need to thoroughly and regularly and at least somewhat randomly agitate the developer and other chemicals used, you are left with a couple of options.
One is to use a rotating agitator that one inserts into the top of the tank and twists back and forth. Historically, I did not have good results with that in terms of evenness of development.
Another option that has worked okay for me and others is to slide the full tank around on a smooth counter-top. The easiest way to do that in a manner that adds some randomness to the movement of the liquid in the tank is to move the tank in a "figure 8" pattern, varying the speed randomly throughout the movement.

FWIW, invert means in this case to turn the developing vessel upside down; not a color inversion via computer processing or taking the inverse of mathematical function. :+)

 

[Xylo]

I know I'm a bit late, but have you tried going the 3D printer route?
Last year I printed a reel for a roll of Minox film and it worked just fine.
Here's one for 110 film in a Paterson tank

Printables

www.printables.com

 

[cmacd123]

or you can buy from this folk on Etsy. this is the one for a Jobo Tank, he also has one for Patterson (and it's many friends like Arista/AP) https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1190234131/110-film-developing-reel-jobo-fit