What flash to use for macro photography?

[Analogski]

Hi

I have a Nikon F4 and I want to explore the world of macro photography. I already have a macro lens, but for insects for example, I think I need a proper ring flash. I need advice on what is a good choice.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dan Fromm]

If you're shooting at magnifications no greater than 1:1 there are many possibilities. I also shoot fish in aquaria with flash. Controlling reflections in this situation requires that the flash(es) axis be at a 45 degree angle to the tank fronts.

I have a rig that works well for fish in aquaria, also for flowers and insects. The range of magnifications I use is given by the lenses I use. With a 105/2.8 MicroNikkor, no greater than 1:1. I've gone digital and auto-ttl flash, previously used a similar rig with an FM2n, small manual flashes and Kodachrome 25. For flowers and insects, flashes on a Spiratone MacroDapter. For fish in tanks, bracketry as I now use, a straight bracket that holds my D810 with an AF 105/2.8 MicroNikkor in the center and an SB-600 at each end. A similar rig with just one flash would work nearly as well.

About using manual instead of auto-ttl flashes. I spent a roll of film shooting at likely apertures (f/11, f/16 and f/22 set, effective aperture smaller depending on magnification and aperture set) and magnifications (1:8, 1:4. 1:2 and 1:1). This with a pair of little fixed-output flashes on short tilting flash holders on a Spiratone MacroDapter. Same subject for all of the test shots. I examined the test shots, picked the best one for each combination of magnification and aperture set. This gave me a table of aperture to use given magnification. Linear interpolation between the test magnifications gave results that were better than good enough.

The MacroDapter makes a poor man's ring light, but with better modeling. It has 2 cold shoes, screws into the front of the taking lens. If you can get the flashes at the right distance from the lens' axis, a MacroDapter-based rig will give nearly constant aperture, given flash output, over 1:6 to 1:1. This works because changes in flash-to-subject distance with changes in magnification give changes in illumination on the subject that nearly exactly offset changes in illumination on the film plane due to changes in magnification. I hope this explanation is clear enough.

I did the same tests with a pair of Vivitar 283s and VP1s, found the right power settings given magnification and aperture set. One more look-up table. Worked a treat, but much heavier.

 

[xkaes]

As Dan points out, much depends on the magnification you want to achieve and the equipment you will be using.

Ring flashes can work, but the flash light often appears flat -- no shadows. Having the flash light off at an angle adds more of a 3D effect. Also, at high magnification most ring flashes miss the subject -- which is very close to the lens.

The good thing about macro work is that you don't need super powerful flash units because you can place them very close to the subject. The bad thing about macro work is that auto-exposure is often problematic -- even if you have TTL flash automation -- for a variety of reasons. Of course, manual exposure is no piece of cake either because you have to determine the flash distance, the f-stop and then adjust either or both for the amount of extension.

For super results, you'll need more than one flash, but as I mentioned, they don't need to be powerful or expensive.

One thing to consider is that with macro work and electronic flash, the background will be BLACK -- even in daylight, unless you adjust the flash light accordingly (if you want to). You can make the flash a fill-in to the existing light -- or vice-versa.

 

[jeffreyg]

As mentioned it depends on your equipment, subjects and magnification you intend to work at. I have a Sunpak auto DX12R with the appropriate adapters and modules that I have used with a Nikon FM2, Nikon F100 and 105 MikroNikkor lens as well as with a Hasselblad with an 80mm and extension tubes. I have also used them with a bracket that held two small inexpensive flash units as well as using a copy stand with four bulbs. Everything works you just need to decide what you need it for.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Joe, another way of dealing with the dread black background effect -- a consequence of "depth of illumination" -- is to put something not too far behind the subject. Not always possible in the wild, especially with live subjects, e.g., insects. My portable fish photo tank's support bracket holds an 18% (sold as 18%, not always actually 18%) gray card behind the tank. Without it the subject's vertical fins can get lost in the darkness.

I used flash with KM to eliminate motion (subject's, mine) while shooting at an aperture that made sense. There's a tradeoff between sharpness in the plane of best focus and sharpness in depth, one has to choose. With static subjects stacking can really help. I've never done it in the field, use it in the lab when shooting preserved specimens. Possible but impractical with film.

With a digital camera turning the ISO up can help with this but flash always works. Since the OP has an F4 turning film sensitivity up isn't an option and using a fast color film (are there still any?) isn't a good solution.

 

[xkaes]

There's a lot to be said for black background in macro work. The subject really stands out -- much like a projected slide in a dark room.

 

[mshchem]

Nikon SB-29S will give you auto ttl flash with F3, F4, F5 etc. Not digital. You'll probably end up using it in manual. Kit comes with adapter rings, case etc. Cheap on Ebay

 

[xkaes]

Get a copy of "The Manual of Close-up Photography" by Lefkowitz. Chapter 8 is all about LIGHTING.

 

[Dan Fromm]

There's a lot to be said for black background in macro work. The subject really stands out -- much slide a projected slide in a dark room.

Absolutely, but it depends on the subject. My earliest field photos of fish were done without a gray card behind the tank butshow much less usable detail in the vertical fins than do my later shots with the card.