I have a Sekonic L-358 and it is accurate & easy to use.
The Minoltas are also good.
I wish that I had seen this thread when it was new---I ordered a Sekonic L-558 and a set of PocketWizards right after getting home from the emergency room, which occurred right after getting the split in my forehead sewn up, which in turn occurred right after trying to step carefully over the sync cord to the power pack, during which endeavor I encountered the end of the studio stand crossarm.
Something to think about if you are planning studio work with strobes.......![]()
I wish that I had seen this thread when it was new---I ordered a Sekonic L-558 and a set of PocketWizards right after getting home from the emergency room, which occurred right after getting the split in my forehead sewn up, which in turn occurred right after trying to step carefully over the sync cord to the power pack, during which endeavor I encountered the end of the studio stand crossarm.
Something to think about if you are planning studio work with strobes.......![]()
D'oh! Old thread.....
Maybe a dumb response, but what about using a digital camera as a flash meter?
(I'm not sure about how hard the synchronization issue would be.)
It seems that using a digital camera as a flash meter could also give other benefits, such as getting an idea of how the balance between main flash and fill flash is working.
Maybe a dumb response, but what about using a digital camera as a flash meter?
(I'm not sure about how hard the synchronization issue would be.)
It seems that using a digital camera as a flash meter could also give other benefits, such as getting an idea of how the balance between main flash and fill flash is working.
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