What films did you shoot most recently? (Part 2)

[wblynch]

Ektar should love that late spring sun in Canberra.

 

[Dr Croubie]

Well, today I actually shot a film I have before, but in a totally different way. I packed two rolls of Delta 3200 to use with the 80/1.9 indoors in dimly lit pubs taking pics of poets (which I've done with every other roll of it that I've shot)
But a) when I got to the airport security and tried to get them passed around the xray-machine they made me open them to prove there was film in them. So I can't re-freeze in case I freeze the humidity into them and may as well use them up while I'm here. And b) because my flight landed at 9pm, by the time I got to the poetry gig last night, I only got 5 shots in before it was all over.

So today, for the first time, I've been shooting Delta 3200 (rated at 3200) in full sunlight (in between the Ektar, already through two rolls of that).
f/22, 1/1000, orange filter and CPL all together. Normally I would prefer to use the Efke25 and PanF50 for grain-free detailed landscapes, but halfway through I realised: this current government is so regressive (even calling them conservative gives them too much credit), that shooting really-grainy retro-looking century-old shots of parliament-house would match their policies perfectly...

 

[kiss-o-matic]

I bought some Portra 800 for some reason (well, I had a good reason) a while back and finally shot it after like 4 months. It was really pricey, so I doubt I'll buy anymore. Haven't developed yet. Sometimes I like having to think less w/ B&W, since I'm very close to knowing exactly what I like out of what's available. Can't say the same for color.

 

[destroya]

shot my first roll of reala yesterday. cant wait to see the results. also a roll of provia 100 and 400

 

[John_Nikon_F]

Currently have:

Adox CHS 25 in the F2AS, Adox CHS 100 in the F3P, and a roll of Portra 400 in the F4. The F and F5 are empty right now, as is the other F2AS, which is being serviced right now.

Finished up a roll of 2003 expiration Velvia last month, along with a roll of Provia 400X, and a roll of Ektar 100. Strangely enough, the Velvia looked almost like plain ol' Fujichrome 50 (the old RD version from 1990). Guess it mellows out a bit with age. Ran that through the F2AS that's currently being serviced. The 400X was in the F5, and the Ektar in the F3P.

-J

 

[RattyMouse]

shot my first roll of reala yesterday. cant wait to see the results. also a roll of provia 100 and 400

You just shot your FIRST roll of Reala? You are in for a roller coaster ride. First you'll see how utterly GORGEOUS the color is from this film. Reala is simply to die for. Amazingly beautiful color.

Then you are in for a world of hurt when you realize that Reala is no longer made.

 

[John_Nikon_F]

You just shot your FIRST roll of Reala? You are in for a roller coaster ride. First you'll see how utterly GORGEOUS the color is from this film. Reala is simply to die for. Amazingly beautiful color.

Then you are in for a world of hurt when you realize that Reala is no longer made.

lol, that'd be like someone discovering Fuji Pro 160C and its eyepopping color, then discovering that it hasn't been made for a couple years. :-\

-J

 

[Claudia Moroni]

I've shot 6 5x4 sheets of out of date Ilford HP5 @200 iso and 6 of Fomapan Creative 200 @200 iso as well.

It's my first time using Foma 200, does anyone have any tips regarding development?

I normally use either HC110 solution B or Microphen 1+1

 

[StoneNYC]

I've shot 6 5x4 sheets of out of date Ilford HP5 @200 iso and 6 of Fomapan Creative 200 @200 iso as well.

It's my first time using Foma 200, does anyone have any tips regarding development?

I normally use either HC110 solution B or Microphen 1+1

Tips in what regard? You haven't stated what you do or don't like about your results so far that would require a "tip"

My only experience with either film was using Rodinal (Adox Adonal) so I couldn't comment on either of those dev's with regard to that film (though I have used HC-110(B), I have not used Microphen so I can't compare those either).

So what's wrong with either that you need a tip?

Also is that HP5 or HP5+? You said expired so I wanted to clarify that.

 

[benjiboy]

You just shot your FIRST roll of Reala? You are in for a roller coaster ride. First you'll see how utterly GORGEOUS the color is from this film. Reala is simply to die for. Amazingly beautiful color.

Then you are in for a world of hurt when you realize that Reala is no longer made.

It isn't discontinued in my house, I have about 50 rolls of 135 and 50 of 120 in a freezer in my basement although it is discontinued I can still buy the 120 in the U.K. because they are selling off the existing stock.

 

[destroya]

lol, that'd be like someone discovering Fuji Pro 160C and its eyepopping color, then discovering that it hasn't been made for a couple years. :-\

-J

I have a bunch of 160c in 220 packs. But I almost never shoot color neg film, mainly reversal. That explains the first roll of reala. I have some rolls of reala i got a year ago before the big price jump. The 160c i did dhoot came out very nice I must say, but still a little short of slide film umph. but i do prefer the 160c to ektar

 

[Black Dog]

Still have some Velvia in 220 yippeeeeeeeeee!

 

[StoneNYC]

Still have some Velvia in 220 yippeeeeeeeeee!

LUCKY!

 

[thegman]

Most recently, 4 sheets of 4x5 FP4+.

 

[Dr Croubie]

You just shot your FIRST roll of Reala? You are in for a roller coaster ride. First you'll see how utterly GORGEOUS the color is from this film. Reala is simply to die for. Amazingly beautiful color.

Then you are in for a world of hurt when you realize that Reala is no longer made.

Same happened to me about a year ago when I discovered Efke KB25...

 

[Claudia Moroni]

Tips in what regard? You haven't stated what you do or don't like about your results so far that would require a "tip"

My only experience with either film was using Rodinal (Adox Adonal) so I couldn't comment on either of those dev's with regard to that film (though I have used HC-110(B), I have not used Microphen so I can't compare those either).

So what's wrong with either that you need a tip?

Also is that HP5 or HP5+? You said expired so I wanted to clarify that.

What results? I stated that it's the first time I use this kind of film!

I was wondering if any user who shot it could give me a rough idea of development time with either Microphen or HC110 (the two developers I normally use).

Otherwise if anyone had good results with any other developer that they'd recommend for this film (for example how was your experience with Rodinal and Foma 200?)

It was HP5+

 

[StoneNYC]

What results? I stated that it's the first time I use this kind of film!

I was wondering if any user who shot it could give me a rough idea of development time with either Microphen or HC110 (the two developers I normally use).

Otherwise if anyone had good results with any other developer that they'd recommend for this film (for example how was your experience with Rodinal and Foma 200?)

It was HP5+

First I look at the manufacturers recommendations for development times, and then the massive dev chart's times and usually they match up, sometimes if they are off I try and take the middle ground and go from there.

Your film should have come with a chart of regular developers listed with times. And if not, the data sheets for the developers should list some times, and check the massive dev chart, all available online with an easy google search.

 

[StoneNYC]

Ok, so HC-110(B) is TOO fast a developer to be used and ensure even development. So I wouldn't use that anyway. (Times under 5 minutes for both HP5+ and FOMA400

Did you happen to shoot this at 200 by accident?

Microphen 1+3 has listed 16 minutes On the massive dev chart, that's the only dilution that lists 200 for the developers you listed.

I haven't ever shot HP5+ at 200, only at 400, 800 and 3200.

Rodinal 1:50 is listed at 10 minutes for an EI of 200 for HP5+ and 11 minutes for FOMA400 at EI 200.

The massive dev chart is crowd sourced so the listed times are only good as a base starting point since everyone shoots differently but I hope that helps you a bit. I would throw one one sheet of each in a tank and develop both sheets in Rodinal 1:50 for 10 minutes and that would give you a better idea how to develop the remaining sheets. That's my best advice.

 

[wblynch]

I've shot 6 5x4 sheets of out of date Ilford HP5 @200 iso and 6 of Fomapan Creative 200 @200 iso as well.

It's my first time using Foma 200, does anyone have any tips regarding development?

I normally use either HC110 solution B or Microphen 1+1

My only experience with Fomapan (not in 4x5, yet) is that HC-110 is very active. I will use dilution H (1+63) for pleasing results. I think I went for 6.5 minutes most recently.

I actually prefer D-76 or a derivitaive for Fomapan.

My other tip with Fomapan is to use a water stop or very dilute. I have had pinholes show up on 120 Fomapan with too-strong acidic stop bath. Now I only use water.

 

[StoneNYC]

My only experience with Fomapan (not in 4x5, yet) is that HC-110 is very active. I will use dilution H (1+63) for pleasing results. I think I went for 6.5 minutes most recently.

I actually prefer D-76 or a derivitaive for Fomapan.

My other tip with Fomapan is to use a water stop or very dilute. I have had pinholes show up on 120 Fomapan with too-strong acidic stop bath. Now I only use water.

Agree about those pin holes...

Also, you used dil(H) at 6.5 minutes when shooting FOMA400 at 200?

EDIT: OOOppps!!!!! Ahh! Foma200

Shoot, Claudia, the Rodinal 1:50 for FOMA 200 is 10:00

HC-110(B) is 3:30 but again too short....

Microphen stock is 5 minutes and 1+3 is 12:00

Sorry for miss reading your original post

 

[wblynch]

Agree about those pin holes...

Also, you used dil(H) at 6.5 minutes when shooting FOMA400 at 200?

Foma 400 @ 400 and Foma 200 @ 200. I used the same dev times. Only shot Foma 200 twice in 120.

 

[Black Dog]

The 200 and 100 are nice in Barry Thornton's 2 bath formula [I halve their rated speeds].

 

[Kyle M.]

Been shooting alot of Arista EDU Ultra 100 and 400, both 120 and 35mm. It's cheap and I absolutely love the look of the stuff.

 

[Claudia Moroni]

First I look at the manufacturers recommendations for development times, and then the massive dev chart's times and usually they match up, sometimes if they are off I try and take the middle ground and go from there.

Your film should have come with a chart of regular developers listed with times. And if not, the data sheets for the developers should list some times, and check the massive dev chart, all available online with an easy google search.

EDIT: OOOppps!!!!! Ahh! Foma200

Shoot, Claudia, the Rodinal 1:50 for FOMA 200 is 10:00

HC-110(B) is 3:30 but again too short....

Microphen stock is 5 minutes and 1+3 is 12:00

Sorry for miss reading your original post

You're right, I could have easily searched with Google and looked at the massive dev chart, but while I was here, I thought it'd be interesting to hear other users' experiences, since I think that Apug is a community full of incredibly experienced and talented film photographers.

No problem about the misunderstanding xx

My only experience with Fomapan (not in 4x5, yet) is that HC-110 is very active. I will use dilution H (1+63) for pleasing results. I think I went for 6.5 minutes most recently.

I actually prefer D-76 or a derivitaive for Fomapan.

My other tip with Fomapan is to use a water stop or very dilute. I have had pinholes show up on 120 Fomapan with too-strong acidic stop bath. Now I only use water.

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated

The 200 and 100 are nice in Barry Thornton's 2 bath formula [I halve their rated speeds].

I'm not familiar with this developer, I guess you have to mix it yourself and I have never done it before, but thanks for the imput

 

[Black Dog]

Claudia-the formula will definitely be on a site somewhere. It's in his book Edge of Darkness [Argentum Press]. Also see the Film Developing Cookbook [Anchell and Troop].