What film to use for copying b&w photos?

[tbm]

I've used Technical Pan in the past to duplicate b&w photos via a copy stand with four lights and the source photos flat on the copy stand with my Leica R8 and 60 mm macro lens. I'd now like to use another film because Technical Pan can be fussy to print in terms of exactly duplicating the tones and contrast of the original source photos. Do you have any other recommendations (perhaps Delta 100 or FP4 Plus?) based on your successful experiences, including the film development details? Thanks.

Terry

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I use T-Max 100 usually for that in D-76 (1+1), since it's fairly neutral and has a long straight line curve. I've seen good results with TMX in Xtol, but I use D-76 out of habit.

 

[jd callow]

Have you tried a chromagenic B&W film?

 

[fschifano]

Like David, I've used TMX for this application with pretty good results. Unlike David I typically pair TMX with XTOL. It's a good combination, a little better than TMX and D-76 I think.

 

[Konical]

Good Evening, Terry,

I'll second the recommendation for TMX if you're limited to 35mm. For lots of reasons, I prefer to use 4 x 5 for copy work. Kodak used to offer quite a number of different copy films in sheet sizes, although it takes a little luck to find supplies of them now. My favorite for B & W is Kodak Commercial 4127 which offers great contrast-adjusting flexibility and very short processing times. When my several hundred frozen sheets are gone, I'll have to thaw out my boxes of Kodak Professional Copy 4125 and learn how to get the most from it. Nobody above has mentioned Ilford Pan F, but such a slow fine-grain film, with the right developer(s?) would seem to be worth a try.

Konical

 

[Bob Carnie]

The best film for B&W copy work that I used was Kodak Pro Copy in 4x5 sheets developed in HC110 forget the dilution.

I am not sure if this film is still manufactured but it was designed for copy work and using filters to take out yellowing and stains on the original.

 

[df cardwell]

TMX / Xtol

Adjust the contrast index to suit your subject

Kodak's published date is very reliable

You'll miss the 'no grain' of TP, but you'll have much more detail in TMX

Pan F has more grain and less acutance than TMX, so for a 'technical application'
why bother ?

For this application, with Xtol, Delta 100 should be interchangeable with TMX.

Ilford DD-X would be a good choice too.

With the long straight line, you can expose generously. Fine tune with filtration. A bit less red sensitivity than TP, which will help.

/d

 

[Oren Grad]

If the goal is exact reproduction of the tonal scale of the original, I'm not sure TMX in D-76 1+1 or Xtol is ideal. At least in my experience, both of those developers give a bit of a shoulder with TMX. TMax RS might be a better bet. Delta 100 in D-76 might be worth a try as well.

 

[glennfromwy]

This is as low tech as you can get, but I get excellent results using Plus-X developed in D-76 1:1. I keep the agitation to a minimum and keep it gentle. It makes great copies and no problems with adding too much grain.

 

[tbm]

Thanks, all, for your replies. I have about 50 rolls of Delta 100 in my freezer, so I think I'll try that and develop it in Microdol-X, my favorite with that film. However, I won't hesitate to try some of your recommendations/suggestions.

Terry

 

[DKT]

Kodak commercial is gone now along with pro copy as well, but Ilford ortho Plus is pretty close to Commercial film. Unfortunately it's 4x5 and 8x10 only, but it's good for extracting detail from faded (yellow) images, and it's great for line art. It's convenient to use if you cross polarize as well, since the exposure increase for using a wratten 47B (deep blue) filter plus the polarizers is pretty heavy. I used to do this a lot with TMAX to copy faded & silvered out prints, but now the only time I use TMX is if the original has any red in it or any brown tones approaching red. Everything else is ortho plus, and I run it in the same deeptank (tmax rs replenished) batch as the TMX we use in the studio. Our normal on that is 6 minutes 75f. my exposure is generally about a stop off what TMX would be. sometimes I vary the exposure just a little but--over & under, and push/pull for overly flat or contrasty originals. If I really need the contrast, I tray process in dektol or LPD. It's good in D11 or D19 as well. not as good as pro copy though.