What DSLR camera would you recommend to a beginner?

[jhonmartinvish]

I am really wanting to find a good DSLR camera. I need it to be reliable, and pretty well constructed. I am wanting to major in photography, so i would want a very good DSLR camera. What would you recommend for me? I am a beginner btw, so, what would be a good camera?

 

[pschwart]

Don't agonize about which camera to buy -- all recent makes and models, including entry-level and consumer grade, are marvels of technology. If you have experience with film SLRs, find a store where you can handle the cameras and evaluate the controls, layout, and maybe some lenses. If not, just find one that fits your budget. I wouldn't spend a whole lot if you are just starting -- even used is OK.

 

[Pioneer]

I agree. Start inexpensive, most of today's digital SLRs will do everything you will need and more. Don't buy on-line. Go to a store and try out a few entry level DSLRs until you find one that you enjoy handling and that doesn't confuse you terribly at this point. At this point a newer model used camera would be a great idea.

Pick a decent lens to go with it. I much prefer prime lenses and I still believe that learning photography with one prime lens teaches you a lot about composition. Learning how to really use a good 35mm or 50mm prime lens right now will pay huge benefits later in your career. But if you have to have a zoom pick a nice, compact one in the 18-50mm range. The salesman will probably try to convince you to buy a zoom with a constant 2.8 aperture, but at this point that is a waste. The one that has a 3.5 to 4.5 maximum aperture works great and it is a heck of a lot easier to pack around.

In the beginning you have no idea what will really interest you as you progress in your photographic education. So it makes no sense to spend a ton of money for a big, fancy camera. You may actually find yourself in 4 years packing a large format film camera around for some project that has excited your interest. You may decide that you love rangefinders and enjoy doing street documentaries. Or you may decide that you are very interested in doing macro work. You really have no idea at this point and there is no single camera that can do it all.

Enjoy your classes and have fun.

 

[Hatchetman]

get a cheap one. spend money on good lenses which last forever and have good resale value.

 

[keyofnight]

get a cheap one. spend money on good lenses which last forever and have good resale value.

+1. Lenses are much more important than bodies. I would start with a prime. A 35mm should be "normal" for an APS-C sized sensor.

I agree it's very important that you hold a few cameras in your hands. However: I've never found that advice particularly helpful for beginners. How does a beginner know what they're looking for when they're trying out these cameras? You'll be in a much better position to pick a camera once you've had the chance to use one for a while. Maybe borrow a camera from a friend? (I don't have any friends who have cameras, but you might be lucky.)

Also… I would recommend a camera with two control dials. If you end up playing with your manual mode (and I recommend every beginning photographer should at least play with the manual mode), you'll be able to control both aperture and shutter speed without playing with function buttons.

 

[CGW]

Trailing edge used prosumer bodies like the Nikon D200 are very cheap now and, thanks to strong sales, are often available with low actuation counts. They will meter with older manual AI/AIS lenses as well as AF-D/AF-S lenses. They're not killer at hi-ISO settings and do use CF cards only.

Keep an eye on the Nikon D7000 which is very likely up for retirement soon. They're discounted now and may go lower once the new D600 ships and a replacement appears. Should be widely available for a looksee now.

 

[jhonmartinvish]

thanks for your reply and your time

 

[jd callow]

I'd recommend nothing less than 12MP, a camera whose lenses can be carried used on better/future bodies, and has good video capture. I would shy away from used for a first body.

Starter kits:
Canon EOS Rebel T3i
18mega pixel APS sensor, Very good HD Video, Appears to only come with a lens.
800.00/750.00

Nikon D3200
24.2 Megapixel APS sensor, very good HD video
700.00/650.00

Nikon D5100
16.2 Megapixel APS sensor, good HD video, rugged body, older model
800.00/600.00

Sony Alpha a57
16.1 Megapixel aps sensor, good video, very easy to use
800.00/600.00

Somewhat future proof

Canon EOS 7d
19 mega pixel APS sensor, excellent HD Video. Older model
1700.00/1500.00

Nikon D7000
16.2 Megapixel APS sensor, very good HD video, more durable body, more options (prosumer), older model
1200.00/950.00

Sony Alpha a77
24.3 Megapixel APS sensor, very good HD video
1400.00/1000.00

 

[desertfotog]

Don't be panicked into buying something expensive becasue it has big number -- like 12 megapixels. A 3 mp camera will make good 11x14 prints. Find something you like even if the next guy hates it and the usless nubers are higher.

 

[jd callow]

my experience is that you need every bit of 12mp to produce a good 8x12, but it may depend upon the output device and final print type. Having said that I'd be inclined to sacrifice pixels for a larger sensor. Unfortunately, full frame sensors never seem to be cheap new or used.

 

[desertfotog]

Of course the simple number of megapixels means absolutely nothing. It's the number of megapixels, the size of the pixels and the size of the sensor. Some camera companies will jam zillions of tiny mpxels into a super-tiny sensor and pretend to the public that the number means it's hot stuff. The point is not to get numbers-happy. I had a 3 mp camera that made fine 11x14 blowups, and another that was 6 pm and ditto the the quality. I have a 3pm Olympus I bought at a thrift shop for $15 that takes stunning photographs.

 

[photomc]

Have done the same exercise a couple of years ago, and went with a Canon T2i (right after the T3i came out). Video output is great and I could use the EF lens that I had for film camera. What really helped image quality recently was the purchase of a 50mm 1.4 lens and a 17-40mm L lens, they were worth the extra $ imo. As others have said, do not worry much over the body but buy the best glass you can.

 

[SafetyBob]

This is an excellent thread for those who need some great, positive and realistic advice as to what to begin with. Been there and done that around 5 years ago.

Just like everyone above, I entered the DSLR world with a used Nikon D60 because I couldn't find a Nikon D40 around where I live. Now I know about KEH and all the other big photo houses and their used departments and have all but given up on buying off the "bay". It's nice to have someone stand behind their sale....

My problem which may be more unique than the average person wanting information here is that I also got back into film at the same time. A full frame DSLR is better suited to take maximum advantage out of all the old lens that Nikon has made over the years.

Honestly, given the technology, a DX camera has more than enough of everything needed to render a really good photo. As stated above, good to great lens are going to cost money....sometimes a lot of money. Don't worry, you should be able to use those same lenses for your next camera too.

Just as important as your camera is what are you going to do with that image. I had Photoshop in early 1992 and used it (poorly) with my point-and-shoot digital cameras. I got better, but so did Photoshop. Last year I bought CS3 just as CS5 had come out. Found it new in the box on "the bay", and it is alot of program....I use just a few features. You will need some sort of photo editing software in addition to your camera.

Now the biggest can of worms....printing. I started with inkjets, then photo inkjets, then got wet prints from my local lab when I wanted "nice" prints of my stuff. Then I met mr. dye sub printer. You know those Kodak setups they had at WalMart a few years ago? Dye sub printer.

I got one super cheap, got struck by lightening, I cried alot, then found place that sold refurbs from Kodak for basically nothing since my printer hasn't been in production since late 2006 or 2007. There is no way I will wear out a printer made essentially for commercial printing operations at my little house. I am actually looking at newer ones right now.

Certainly starting with inkjets and photo inkjets will be your route, just realize there are other photo printers out there that you could use for printing at home if you wish other than inkjet technology. As you can gather, I have been more than satisified with my dye sub route.

With a camera, a lens or two, small flash too, some software and a basic printer, one can have alot of fun and enjoyment. You just need to get started.

Bob E.

 

[JBrunner]

I'd recommend a Nikon or Canon over anything else just because of the amount of secondary gear available.

JD, my 7d (19mp) makes way bigger files than my 1Ds (12mp). Guess which one makes way better prints?

 

[Felinik]

Find a used APS-C or Four-Thirds that fits your budget, get a wide angle (24/28 equivalent) and a ~50 equivalent for a start. This is a good start-kit and when you after 1-2 years are developing further "needs", you will be more aware of what it is you want. Don't buy a zoom, not for the image quality etc. but using primes from the start will teach you SO much more about composition and make you more conscious about what you are doing way faster than if you run around with a zoom your first year(s), imho even sticking to manual focus is a good way to start, but I am sure there's loads of opinions about this...

Good luck and have fun!!

 

[SafetyBob]

Felnik, you bring up an excellent point for new folks to this. A zoom can be a wonderful thing however, a simple prime such as a 50mm can teach one much about composition and especially to gain the confidence that one can simply move in or out to frame the picture one wants. I tend to cheat very, very much with my zoom to plant myself and zoom to fill the shot the way I want. I do believe and know I have done myself an injustice by not spending more time with primes getting my composition down the way I need to. I use the zoom to do that for me which has made me a lazy photographer. I need to pay my dues first.

Honestly, the best photo I have taken in the past 20 years was with a simple 50mm and me zooming in to get that "perfect" shot.

Bob E.

 

[Felinik]

Ask me how I know Bob...

 

[RalphLambrecht]

my experience is that you need every bit of 12mp to produce a good 8x12, but it may depend upon the output device and final print type. Having said that I'd be inclined to sacrifice pixels for a larger sensor. Unfortunately, full frame sensors never seem to be cheap new or used.

I agree. Look if you can swing a used name-brand12or16Mpful-frame camera;even used.I cannot think of a bad one in that camp. unfortunately, I cannot think of a cheap one in that camp either, but this way, you won't be disappointed and can use it for years to come.:munch:

 

[Pioneer]

I'd recommend a Nikon or Canon over anything else just because of the amount of secondary gear available.

JD, my 7d (19mp) makes way bigger files than my 1Ds (12mp). Guess which one makes way better prints?

Everyone here probably has a favorite brand. Forget about what everyone else uses, find the one you like to work with. I wouldn't even worry whether or not it is a digital SLR or not. There are lots of other great types out there that you may find way easier to work with. I do the majority of my digital work anymore with a mirrorless camera that doesn't even have the Reflex Prism. There are dozens of great options so don't tie yourself to one type of camera.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

agreed, but to be more specific,I'd look for a Nikon D40 or D60

 

[indigo]

I really don't think I can recommend a camera for you as I am not you. I think only the person who uses the camera would know if it's the right camera for him/her.
If it would help. I recently bought my first ever DSLR the day after Christmas. I bought the Nikon Df as I figured I never shoot video so I picked one without the video feature. For the short time that I had it so far I like it very much.

 

[GRHazelton]

If at all possible visit a bricks and mortar store where you can handle cameras from several manufacturers. As a Pentaxian I am totally unbiased but I think you'll find that the feel of a camera in your hands is as important as the breadth and depth of lenses and gadgets and whatever available for it. Canon and Nikon make fine cameras, as does Sony, but the Pentax feels better to me. Of course, YMMV. Try to compare them with equivalent lenses, for example the ubiquitous 18-55 kit lens, and compare the brightness and size of the viewfinder image. Can you use it with glasses? BTW, few if any DSLRs have viewfinders as bright and large as the better film SLRs. Such is life, I suppose.

Pentaprism finders are generally better than pentamirror finders, although they are more expensive to make.

Unless you demand the newest, a good time to buy is just after a new model is released. While there are sometimes dramatic improvements in a new model - the Pentax K 3's increase in sensor pixels and its switchable anti-aliasing filter, for example, generally changes are incremental.

Used gear is another possibility. Since most DSLRs have a shutter count feature you can tell the "mileage" so to speak. Adorama, B&H and KEH are all reliable dealers, in my experience. Just make sure you get ALL the goodies vital to the camera, like a battery and charger, for example, and any software included in the package.

 

[Felinik]

I just jumped ship from Pentax, shooting a lot of film I got tired of not being able to direct translate my lens toolbox to digital as Ricoh still seem to have decided that Pentax users are not competent enough for shooting FF.

So all my Pentax gear is up for sale, and I'm now buying into Nikon, got 4-5 film bodies now, a basic lens toolbox, and in 2-3 months a D610 too complement my film shooting with.



Still for starting, I say get a Micro Four Thirds setup, Lumix/Olympus for cheaps, and a cpl of primes, and keep that until you feel further development has taken place and needs are starting to emerge based on what and how you actually shoot…


Cheers
JF

 

[Pioneer]

My advice is to go to KEH and find the best 10 to 12 megapixel APS-C or Full Frame used digital SLR you can find and then go shoot. Stay off the internet and just shoot that camera until it either dies, or it cannot take the picture you need to make. When either of those happens, start over and do it again.

Do not, I repeat, DO NOT go on the internet and read any of these forums for any reason. Just focus attention on taking pictures and enjoying your photography.

Of course, no one ever does this. Instead they read these forums and just keep on buying new digital cameras every year or so. For most of those the happy gradually dies off because it is too expensive and it quits being fun.

 

[artobest]

And do make time to read this:

The Online Photographer: TOP Classic: Letter to George