Shot #12 and the rest from the workshop remind me of the classic Shorpy Kodachromes. Lovely blues and shadows, with him standing out.https://sperryphoto.com/x
This entire series was shot on Provia using both a Chamonix 45N-2 with a Schneider 150/5.6 and the Hy6 Mod 2 with an 80/2.8 AFD.
I find Provia 100F to be more generally useful than either of the Velvia emulsions. The nuclear-strength colours and higher contrast of the latter do not suit many scenes well, IMO. Provia has a tamer contrast, higher dynamic range and *much* better skintones; in fact it is one of the best colour portrait films ever made IMO (provided the subject contrast is not too high, then you are better off with Portra). It also has exceptional reciprocity characteristics; the colour version of Acros in this regard.
It's true that Provia leans more towards the cool side, especially the greens, especially if in open shade. That is easily remedied with an 81A filter though.
Provia has a little less than 1 more stop of exposure in my eyes
So when do you shoot Velvia 50Provia is more saturated than Ektar. Any chrome film is, except for certain defunct high speed products. Most of my color work, except my early Kodachrome era, involved sheet film. Provia was a headache because it is coated on dimensionally stable acetate base. But I used quite a bit of it until Kodak came out with E100G on superior polyester base. Their current color neg sheet films are also on polyester, including Ektar and Portra. And long ago the venerable Ektachrome 64 was an "Estar" film. With Fuji, the later generation Astia 100F was coated on polyester and a superb product. I never found Velvia especially versatile for printing purposes, being excessively contrasty for most scenes, but sometimes used sheets of Velvia 100F, likewise on polyester base. Bracketing is never an option when shooting expensive 8x10 color film. You either do it right to begin with or go broke. I've been remastering some old 8x10 Provia shots via contact onto 8x10 Porta 160 for sake of RA4 printing. This involves masking etc, but is capable of very high quality results. Velvia is more difficult to obtain good internegs from - it's not just the higher level of contrast, but some peculiar mismatch in the dyes themselves; yet I have obtained a few excellent examples from Velvia 100F.
I can't speak to preference but E100 has slightly finer grain, crazy accurate color without needing an 81A
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