What did you break today?

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lxdude

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I didn't know Tiltall meant "Tilt all the way over"!
 

flatulent1

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Ken, I'm sure we'll soon be hearing from Fred Latchaw (AKA flatulent1).

You should at least give me a heads-up...

Today I broke a T90. It came to me broken (frozen shutter magnets). I was on the verge of getting it working again. Then while I was hammering it on the ground the stop-down lever engaged and will not now disengage. I am very sad.

Actually things turned out quite well. I won an auction for four dead T90s at the princely sum of $26. The first one I took out of the package is in like-new cosmetic condition, but was afflicted with the EEE error. Unbelievably, a light tap on the ground cleared the error and it works perfectly.

The second body, in pretty nice condition, is nevertheless being recalcitrant. When I finally got the shutter firing regularly I discovered the stop-down lever was stuck and would not release. So I'm going to have to take the face off and see what kind of damage I can do.

The third body just sits there, mocking me. No amount of beating is having any effect. I may have to dismember that one as well.

The fourth body is trash. The finish has been eaten away, there's a significant amount of goo on the shutter. This one I think will be my 'training' camera. Heh.
 
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Newt_on_Swings
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flatulent, your camera beating stories are always hilarious! I am just imagining what it looks like and the looks of people's faces if you do it infront of them. haha
 

Greg Heath

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I just got done restoring my Konica Auto S2. It's perfect. Later in the day, I snapped the Winding mechanism in half inside the lens...the little bar that winds the shutter to fire, apparently jammed and broke the Shutter winding pin shaft.

I now have a newly restored unusable brick. I am so pissed...

I love my newly restored paperweight. Maybe I will buy another junk one and tear into it...

I should have just bought a Leica...
 
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Denverdad

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Last week while out shooting for 620 camera day, I had an odd failure which had never seen before. I was using my Meteor, with a piece of black electrical tape over the red window, as is my practice with this style of camera in order to reduce the chance of light leaks. Somewhere in the middle of the roll, as I was advancing the film and peeling back the tape to observe the numbers, I noticed that the red window had vanished! It was quite disconcerting looking into the back of the camera and seeing the numbers so crystal clear, unencumbered by the piece of red plastic. For the rest of the roll, I was as careful as I could be to shield the opening from the light as I was advancing. But the film (Portra 400) has not come back from the developer yet, so I still don't know how much of a light leak problem this actually incurred.

My initial thought was that the window either fell off and onto the ground somewhere, or else had somehow been pushed into the camera. But when I got home I discovered what had actually happened - it had been pulled off by the electrical tape, and was still stuck to it!
 

MFstooges

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So I tried to unscrew the strap eyelet on my Nikon FM, turned out it is not a screw and I broke it. The other half fell inside the body. Now I can't think of a way to fix it. I'm an idiot.
 

ambaker

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Sigma 28-200 zoom. Was on my Élan 7e. Toppled out of the camera bag, and fell about 4 inched lens down onto gravel. Three nice big chips in the middle of the glass.
 

Sirius Glass

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The heat wave, this afternoon during a thunder storm.
 

lxdude

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So I tried to unscrew the strap eyelet on my Nikon FM, turned out it is not a screw and I broke it. The other half fell inside the body. Now I can't think of a way to fix it. I'm an idiot.
Yep, it's pinned in. Take it to a repair place and get it fixed, unless you want to take off the top cover and you have a replacement part. I'm just wondering why you wanted to remove it.
 

MFstooges

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Yep, it's pinned in. Take it to a repair place and get it fixed, unless you want to take off the top cover and you have a replacement part. I'm just wondering why you wanted to remove it.

I have a donor body with nicer eyelets and thought about swapping the eyelets :tongue:
I took off the top cover and saw the pin but could not figure out how to take it out. The eyelet itself has some clearance but I could not find a way to take out the pin. It is not a micro allen bolt and no protruding part to hold on.
Oh and I assume this tread is for DIY repairs/mods so I don't have plan to take it to repair shop soon
 

flatulent1

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Sigma 28-200 zoom. Was on my Élan 7e. Toppled out of the camera bag, and fell about 4 inched lens down onto gravel. Three nice big chips in the middle of the glass.

Surprisingly this may not affect image quality. Blacken in the chipped surfaces with a magic marker and go shoot a roll at assorted apertures.
 

lxdude

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I have a donor body with nicer eyelets and thought about swapping the eyelets :tongue:
I took off the top cover and saw the pin but could not figure out how to take it out. The eyelet itself has some clearance but I could not find a way to take out the pin. It is not a micro allen bolt and no protruding part to hold on.
Oh and I assume this tread is for DIY repairs/mods so I don't have plan to take it to repair shop soon

I don't know exactly how it's pinned so I can't give any specific advice, except to say be careful or you could damage the chassis trying to get it out. If it's a plain pin then it's press fit and you need a small punch to drive it out. If you can't get it out a repairer can do it quickly. Shouldn't cost much.
 
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Leigh B

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...I did something to lock up the shutter. I was able to remove the back to have a look inside but cannot see anything amiss. That said, I cannot remount the A12, nor can I remove the 80mm. Meanwhile the shutter remains open and a large flat pin on the bottom right (looking into the body) protrudes....
It sounds like you pre-released the body.

There's a lever protruding down on the right side below and to the rear of the wind crank. If you push that up, the camera goes through all of the functions up to shutter release (shutter closed, aperture stopped down, mirror up, rear curtains open) and stops at that point.

Pressing the normal shutter release will complete the cycle and return the camera to normal operation.

- Leigh
 

Sirius Glass

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Apparently something on one of my 500c/m bodies: While checking it out (running through the shutter speeds and apertures on my 80 CFT*) prior to taking it out on a hiking trip next weekend, I did something to lock up the shutter. I was able to remove the back to have a look inside but cannot see anything amiss. That said, I cannot remount the A12, nor can I remove the 80mm. Meanwhile the shutter remains open and a large flat pin on the bottom right (looking into the body) protrudes....
And looking through my other Blad stuff testing it out...my 50mm does not open up: changing apertures on the barrel has no effect. Time for some professional help...

See "How to unjam an Hasselblad"

http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2b.htm

BradleyK seems to be having a bad decade. Can someone help him with his Nikon.

Yes, I know that would not be in the spirit of this thread, but he needs some help now.

Steve
 

BradleyK

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Fixed the 500c/m; apparently a "sync" issue. Got the gist of the problem, but am hard pressed to determine exactly what I did during cleaning/prep that caused the issue...

The F5, for its part, apparently suffered only cosmetic damage (a nice crease along the left front of the body and a battery holder that - glued together - does not align as snugly as it once did). No damage to the lens mount and the electronics all check out. Meanwhile, Nikon in Toronto has yet to render their verdict on the 28-70ED...
 

mashcky24

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Today I broke a Minolta MC W.Rokkor-HG F2.8 35mm lens trying to open it, and clean oil off of the aperture blades. That is why I registered to APUG!
 

Sirius Glass

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Welcome to APUG, mashcky24
 

k_jupiter

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I have a donor body with nicer eyelets and thought about swapping the eyelets :tongue:
I took off the top cover and saw the pin but could not figure out how to take it out. The eyelet itself has some clearance but I could not find a way to take out the pin. It is not a micro allen bolt and no protruding part to hold on.
Oh and I assume this tread is for DIY repairs/mods so I don't have plan to take it to repair shop soon

I hope you learned something. Take the parts off the junk camera first.

Kinda like replacing the transmission fluid in your automobile. Loosen the refill plug first before draining the transmission.

tim in san jose
 

BradleyK

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Fixed the 500c/m; apparently a "sync" issue. Got the gist of the problem, but am hard pressed to determine exactly what I did during cleaning/prep that caused the issue...

The F5, for its part, apparently suffered only cosmetic damage (a nice crease along the left front of the body and a battery holder that - glued together - does not align as snugly as it once did). No damage to the lens mount and the electronics all check out. Meanwhile, Nikon in Toronto has yet to render their verdict on the 28-70ED...

Aftermath/Consequence of the 28-70ED's Faceplant:

"Repaired the aperture operation. Replaced the bayonet mount. General check and clean."
Nikon Canada

Total cost of failing to properly tighten leg of Tiltall prior to mounting camera: $411.60
A lesson learned.
 

removed account4

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broke apart a dry plate holder attempting to remove a plate . ... at least i saved the broken bits
 

John_Nikon_F

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Broke a Nikkormat FTn top cover removing it from a junk body after the screw stripped out. Parting out three FTn's. If anyone needs parts to undo their damage, I have'em.

-J
 
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