What developer to get best results with Efke?

Gerald Koch · Aug 17, 2005

rusty71 said:
One very curious thing is that the 25 and 50 emuslsions are slightly faster outside or with strong UV light. If you really dig, you'll see that the box speeds are for Tungsten light. You can shoot R25 at ISO 32 and R50 at 64-80 ISO outside in strong sun or open shade.

The slower tungsten speeds reflect the lower sensitivity of these films to red light.

P C Headland · Aug 18, 2005

I love Efke R25 in Rodinal 1+100 for 18 minutes, and R100 for 20 minutes. I use my standard (reduced) agitation scheme of 15s agitation (5 inversions) for first three minutes, then one inversion every three minutes.

I (nearly) always do a pre-soak in water, and use a water stop bath. Not had any problems with damaging the emulsion so far.

Paul

C Rose · Aug 19, 2005

Has any one tried Efke (any speed) in a Jobo with constant agitation??? If so give details

-Beckie

hmmmm still need signature..

Guillaume Zuili · Aug 19, 2005

Hi Beckie,
I do Efke 25 on Jobo with WD2D+. Time is 8 minutes with slowest speed. I have some issues with the contrast.
Another option is Rodinal, you loose the compensation effect with the rotary process, but it works.
So far the best is stand process on Rodinal...not Jobo.
Hope that helps,
Guillaume

Gerald Koch · Aug 19, 2005

ongarine said:
I do not like too much the contrasty in most negatives.

Slow films like Efke 25 are inherently contrasty. You would see this problem with Efke 50 or Ilford PanF+.

VoidoidRamone · Aug 19, 2005

P C Headland said:
I love Efke R25 in Rodinal 1+100 for 18 minutes

18 minutes?! wow, even when I shoot R25 at EI 25 I still only develop for about 10min in rodinal 1:100. How dense are your negatives?
-Grant

P C Headland · Aug 20, 2005

VoidoidRamone said:
18 minutes?! wow, even when I shoot R25 at EI 25 I still only develop for about 10min in rodinal 1:100. How dense are your negatives?
-Grant

Just right for scanning (flatbed), & they look just gorgeous.

The recommended time is 17 minutes, but I use a reduced agitation scheme of 15s every miunute for the first three minutes (five inversions), then one inversion every three minutes.

This works well for 120 and sheet film.

df cardwell · Aug 20, 2005

With Efke 25 ( and Pan F, the late Panatomic X, and the late APX 25 ) reduced agitation allows the film to develop fully without building highlights whose density is superproportional to the exposure.

Beutler / Neofin / Agfa #3 ( the 1920's precedent of Beutler ); FX1, FX2, Rodinal, FX-39, Aculux 2, PyroCat.... all can be adjusted by dilution and agitation to give gentle contrast. Even XTOL can be run with reduced agitation, and contributes a very calming effect to Efke 25.

Using Rodinal as an example, agitation for 5 seconds every 5th minute is more than adequate and allows sufficient time for the shadows to build while the highlights rest. Using 1+100 for 18 minutes as the starting point with conventional agitation, look for a development time between 22 and 30 minutes. A water stop is sufficient with Rodinal, and I like TF4 fix very much. I do NOT presoak.

With XTOL, 1+2 or 1+3 dilution works very nicely, with the 5 seconds per 5 minutes agitation pattern.

I get a completely different curve shape with many films with a Jobo than I do with 'semi standing development'. Consistent, documented, predictable.

Good luck.

payral · Aug 20, 2005

I use Efke 25 with Pyrocat-HD with wonderful results.
I develop in tube (8x10" sheets) dilution 1+1+125, semi stand for 50 minutes
Palladium print

Mike-D · Aug 22, 2005

D-76 1:3

When I first tried Efke 25 like most folks I found it to be fairly contrasty. I first tamed this with D-23 at 1:3 then realized that I got equally good results with plain old D-76 at 1:3.

The extra water cuts the contrast effectively and keeps development times in the reasonable range.

I homebrew my D-76, but I don't think that matters.

Mike D

jsouther · Aug 19, 2006

Lee,

I tried your agitation method for Efke 25 rated at EI25 and found the negatives to be perfect! For me it was 12 minutes at 75deg.

Just wanted to say thanks....

jecurcio · Feb 20, 2007

A minor note regarding studio portraiture using Efke R25 rated at ISO 50 shot under strobes (up to 3 stops difference between key and fill) -- P/F TD-3 (Tropp's pyrocat formulation specifically for TechPan), normal dilution, agitation B, 21 min., 68F, yields incredible gradation with very fine grain.

Jed Freudenthal · Feb 21, 2007

sunnyroller said:
I just ordered each of the three speeds of 120 Efke rollfilm from J and C. I know there is a development chart on the site that lists times for a variety of developers, but I would like to hear what particular developer you think brings out the particular qualities of these films. I know that advice from others is no replacement for me just trying out several different formulas on my own, but right now I would like to find out what others think a particular developer "brings to the table" for Efke films. I.e., If you like X result, try Y developer. I would then have some starting points to begin my own experimentation. I plan to do some portraits with the first few rolls. Thanks for any help ya'll can give me. Sunny

I get fine results wih Efke 100 (EI=50) developed in the pyrogallol HD developer ( as published under 'High defintion developers, staining and non-staining' on the APUG site). The images, obtained with this film-developer combination, have a 'romantic appearance' and is suitable for landscape and portrait.

Jed

Black Dog · Feb 21, 2007

Same here-I've also used PMK and Presycycol EF with very good results. Dilute Perceptol is another brew I might try as I have some lying around.

Uncle Bill · Feb 21, 2007

I am partial to Efke/Adox 100 with Rodinal 1:50 for about 10 min at 20c.

Bill

nworth · Feb 22, 2007

As you can see, just about everything can and has been used. My experience is limited to PL100M. Rodinal, HC110-B, Pyrocat-HD, and D-76 (1+1) have all worked well. I sort of prefer Pyrocat-HD, but not for any particularly convincing reason. PMK should also work well. I was rather surprised at all the recommendations for Rodinal with R25 - but then, I haven't tried it. You usually use R25 when you want grainless pictures, and Rodinal emphasises the grain. I would expect something like D-76 (1+1), D-23, or Pyrocat-HD for that film.

epatsellis · Feb 22, 2007

I will have to try some, I have a stash of TP, as well as a bunch of various developers, including 3 large packages of TD-3, thanks to a generous fellow APUG'er cleaning out his closet.

erie

jecurcio said:
A minor note regarding studio portraiture using Efke R25 rated at ISO 50 shot under strobes (up to 3 stops difference between key and fill) -- P/F TD-3 (Tropp's pyrocat formulation specifically for TechPan), normal dilution, agitation B, 21 min., 68F, yields incredible gradation with very fine grain.

schroeg · Feb 24, 2007

Last night I developed two sheets of Efke PL 100 in W2D2+ pyro and the stain was a lot nicer than Efke KB25. I have yet to print these, but they look promising!

avandesande · Feb 26, 2007

PL100 picks up a much greater amount of 'fog stain' than the PL25. Not necessarily a good thing IMHO.

schroeg said:
Last night I developed two sheets of Efke PL 100 in W2D2+ pyro and the stain was a lot nicer than Efke KB25. I have yet to print these, but they look promising!

What developer to get best results with Efke?

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