jtk
Allowing Ads
I've used PET Gatoraid bottles. Concentrate of the color developer will crack PET. I have a bunch of HDPE Nalgene bottles I use.
For fresh chemicals I want to store I use glass bottle with a compression cap. You can use glass marbles or beads to displace the air. I keep the bottles in a large black plastic container to keep chemicals in and light out. For stuff I use up quickly I just use sauce bottles and squeeze out the air.
How are you going to process? I would imagine tray development would be hard work. Tank I think would be easier to maintain temp.
I meant swing top as used by Grolsch beer (or used to be). You can get them at different sizes for a couple of dollars here.I have an Israeli tank that allows inversion (rubber lid).
What is a compression cap? Like for a slightly used bottle of wine ?
I meant swing top as used by Grolsch beer (or used to be). You can get them at different sizes for a couple of dollars here.
My plan is order a Tetenal E6 kit and decant it into 24 x 100ml amber glass bottles. Overflow volume is 108ml so 4 full bottles for each part with 68ml left over. That 68ml makes 340ml of working solution and my Paterson Major II only needs 300ml for 120. I have extra reels so can I process 3 rolls one after the other.
The glass bottles will make 540ml of working solution. Enough for 6 rolls. 2 rolls to a reel (Super System 4) and 3 lots of processing. Not counting the decanting, all chems used to capacity within half a day of being opened. 27 rolls from a kit. Yet to be done by me so who knows?
The same principal should apply to 4x5, there will be suitable glass bottles for the volumes you want to use each session.
This is more or less the storage principal which I use. However, there is something that you can do to exclude the oxygen from glass bottles, or at least most of it and I have followed this technique for years with C41 developer. Once the dilutions have been made, I place each of the bottles into the microwave and give them a blast to make them hot enough to feel moderately warm. (About 38/45 degrees C) A bit of experimenting with plain water will tell you how long to heat them. This allows the air at the top escape into the atmosphere. then quickly screw on the tops. When the bottles cool down, the lack of air (You won't get rid of it all) creates a partial vacuum.
It is more or less the same way that jars of jam are made to preserve the contents, which is why there is a 'pop' as you unscrew the tops and allow air into the vacuum.
Purists may start hand wringing projecting doom that this will make chemical the deteriorate. Well as far as I have found it makes not one little bit of difference. I am using home pre mixed Tetenal C41 developer that is close on a year old (I am getting towards the end of it) and even now it is just starting to discolour, but still very usable.
RA4 developer appears to be different and does not seem to need any extra treatment as it is so very stable so It is stored in glass until needed.
Before sealing, still at expanding, some air has left the bottle, due tio the expansion of the fluid as well as the air. As he said, he caps the bottle with the fluid and gas still warm. After cooling down this not only yields a tight fit of any seal, but also yields less air and thus less oxygen in that topping space.I question whether you are really eliminating any oxygen this way. You're causing the air to expand in the neck (by heating) and then allowing it to contract after being sealed. That doesn't mean the oxygen molecules are fewer. You are, however, achieving a better seal through the vacuum effect.
Before sealing, still at expanding, some air has left the bottle. As he said, he caps the bottle with the gas still warm. After cooling down this not only yields a tight fit of any seal, but also yields less air and thus less oxygen in that topping space.
Before sealing, still at expanding, some air has left the bottle, due tio the expansion of the fluid as well as the air. As he said, he caps the bottle with the fluid and gas still warm. After cooling down this not only yields a tight fit of any seal, but also yields less air and thus less oxygen in that topping space.
Sorry, still not buying this - in terms of oxygen - except in theory. If you heat air from 70 deg F to 100 deg F, you increase the volume just under 6%. Of course, you're also increasing the volume of the liquid - which forces air out - but liquids expand less than gas. So maybe you've gotten 10-15% of the air out and a corresponding amount of oxygen modules. I question whether that makes a material difference in longevity. And certainly not any better than just filling the container to the brim.
If you heat the solution to a higher temp, you'll get more air out, but at greater risk to the chemicals. When canning, you raise the temp of the contents to a much higher level, so the effect is much greater.
I do buy into the tight seal aspect.
(This info courtesy of my son's science project many years ago.)
I use empty wine bags that can be refilled.
I question whether you are really eliminating any oxygen this way. You're causing the air to expand in the neck (by heating) and then allowing it to contract after being sealed. That doesn't mean the oxygen molecules are fewer. You are, however, achieving a better seal through the vacuum effect.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?