What Best 135 to 120 Film Adapter?

[abruzzi]

The screens are very expensive now. Do not want to ruin one.

Yeh, the Chinese one is ~$50 on ebay.

 

[eli griggs]

"But the bigger problem for the OP is that the ETRSi is a 6x4.5 camera that runs the film vertically from top to bottom. So running 35mm through a 120 or 220 back is not going to give you panorama, but rather portrait frame..."

So, shoot this camera on its side, after final focus?

On a good tripod this (no one with a ball head, IME)m this should be simple, and if you mark the center-post at the same height s the film plane, a quick rising should get you pretty close to the original view.

If in a studio or hard, or even surface, you could even make a sliding frame, on which to set-up the tripod, and,
Focus on your target,
Raise the center-post,
slid the tripod over to a fixed stop, with a track holding the tripod platform, the few inches to center the camera in the same pla as the original focusing plane (near about) and use a toggled clamp to lock it down,
and make your shots from this position.

Add a suitcase handle or leather strap and carry it like a briefcase to locations.
IMO.

 

[RedSun]

"But the bigger problem for the OP is that the ETRSi is a 6x4.5 camera that runs the film vertically from top to bottom. So running 35mm through a 120 or 220 back is not going to give you panorama, but rather portrait frame..."

So, shoot this camera on its side, after final focus?

We'll use 6x7 GS.

 

[abruzzi]

So, shoot this camera on its side, after final focus?

While that would work, it would get you to 42x24, whereas the 135W is 54x24, the Xpan gives you 65x24, and running it on a GS-1 will give you 69x24. So if the goal is panoramic, it depends on how pano you need it.

 

[eli griggs]

We'll use 6x7 GS.

While that would work, it would get you to 42x24, whereas the 135W is 54x24, the Xpan gives you 65x24, and running it on a GS-1 will give you 69x24. So if the goal is panoramic, it depends on how pano you need it.

True enough, but just because the information is on a large piece of film, does no mean it should all be printed, no?

I would be more concerned with the flatness of the film plane than the length of image I was recording with the kit I already have.

Cheers!

 

[RedSun]

True enough, but just because the information is on a large piece of film, does no mean it should all be printed, no?

I would be more concerned with the flatness of the film plane than the length of image I was recording with the kit I already have.

I'm sure if film flatness would be an issue. The film will have a lot of tension. Also the film plate will push the film on the flat surface.

 

[MattKing]

I use a ballhead with my Mamiya 645 Pro regularly - in both portrait and landscape orientation. It works fine.
If I know that there will be lots of work in portrait orientation, I use the Mamiya rotating tripod head adapter - I have the older version, but it works really, really well with my newer camera. Here is a copy of the manual:
http://ianbfoto.com/downloads/Mamiya 645/Mamiya 645 Revolving Tripod Adapter.pdf
It would be perfect if it had a built in Manfrotto quick release plate.

 

[eli griggs]

It should develop right to the edge with metal spools and Patterson-type plastic spools. I sometimes use Kodak plastic strips (often called lasagna strips. You roll the film together with the strip, and wavy bits on the edge space the film away from the strip, but the areas where they touch leave undeveloped, unfixed dots along the edge. So I wouldn’t use those if you intent is to capture all the way to the edge of the film.

You can also consider using a short length of NEW and Washed, small diameter pvc tubing, 3/4 in. - 1 in., sawn up the middle far enough to allow a sanded/rounded slit the size needed for 135 film to be inserted, by the end, to also allow a rounded pvc cap ti be placed under the inserted film in the slit, an place just enough pressure to clamp the roll of film snug, which you then run through a series of tanks, or better, IMO, Ziplok containers, which would allow lose spirals of film to be lifted in and out in processing, and development by inspection.

Turning/twirling the secured film forward, into the direction of the tube end, at the end of such agitation, a short twirl backwards will ensure overall, consistent processing, and once the fixer has worked it's magic, lights on, Baby!

Just feel that the film does no tangle up from developer to bath, to fixer, by use of hand, gloved or otherwise.

Also, do no lift the stick/film up, just twirl, and when ready to move from one chemical to the other, simply guide the wet film tightly enough only to make a drain and transfer, by hand.

I've done this with 16mm film, as well as 135, and it worked fine, just have enough chemistry in your container so that the film is immersed the entire time.

Shorter rolls of film will be easier to process in the beginning, and there is no reason you can no take a roll of factory wound 135, in the dark of a changing bag or dark room, pull out half of it, and load up a into an empty or new film spool, that you joined up in the light, from where you cut the leader square, before extracting the one-half of the roll for a new cartridge.

Remember, you do no have to have a Nikkor or Paterson tank and reels to develop roll films at home, just the Time, chemistry, a watch or clock, no a bright, too close cell phone, some very basic tools and the darkness to do your work in.

I hope this helps some of you.

IMO,