What are your favorite Paper Developers?

[msage]

I wanted to ask everyone what your favorite paper developers are. I have experience with Ilford Multigrade and Kodak Dektol only. I am finding it hard to find written resources on what the effects of different chemistry combinations are, so any suggestions with this would be very helpful as well!

As a new person to the darkroom, I am finding the information in APUG fantastic! Thanks everyone for your help!

Jim

Jim
I use mainly Lauders 721. Depending on dilution it works well on neutral and warmtone papers (Forte and Muligrade). Plus, it is a liquid.

I use amidol on Azo.

Michael

 

[hawkwind]

Exploration is half the fun

To begin, like another reply stated earlier, I like Ansco 130. I bought a case of about 30 old cans of Kodak DK-60a film developer at a yard sale nearly ten years ago. It sat in a box until I bought a copy of "The Darkroom Cookbook." I found that I could turn it into the Ansco 130 by adding a few raw chemicals. Thus began my endeavor into mixing developers. I use it stock when I'm looking for high contrast, and 1:1 for lower contrast. I use it with Ilford Multigrade when I'm doing my "straight" printing. For the more expressive stuff, I go a bit more far afield.

Lith: Maco A/B Superlith and any of the following papers: Forte Polywarmtone Plus, Fomatone, Fomabrom, J and C Polywarmtone.

Occasional forays: Amidol and any bromide paper, especially Kentmere and Foma.

I'm looking forward to trying out some really high contrast formulas. Gimme dem deep blacks.

--Gary

 

[Curt]

Amidol

 

[Leon]

for Oriental VC warmtone, neutol 1:15 or Fotospeed WT10 1:19

For Fotospeed Legacy, Fotospeed WT10 1:19

For Ilford MGFB - tetenal eukobrom 1:4 for coldish tone, tetenal eukobrom 1:9 for neutral tones and neutol 1:15 for warmer tones.

 

[c6h6o3]

With what papers? Amidol is classic to (the late) Azo.

With any gelatin silver paper.

 

[photo8x10]

With any gelatin silver paper.

I use cole weston's formula also for my silver paper ilford, agfa, or bergger whitout problem. I only add benzatriazole in it.

Bye
Stefano

 

[Phillip P. Dimor]

I am an Ethol LPD guy. Dilute 1:3 to 1:5 and it's a warm-tone developer. Diluted 1:1 it is cold. Also, at 1:1 you can replenish it quite reliably. It lasts a LONG time and is extremely economical (the powder in a can, not the liquid concentrate)..

For a chocolately-brown on warm-tone paper, i've used LPD 1:1 to 1:2 and selenium tone, KRST 1:4. The Selenium is key IMHO.
I was a warm-tone addict for a while, the depth can be striking..

 

[ineffablething]

Kodak Ektaflo, for warmtone papers.

 

[Gerald Koch]

I am very happy using a variant of the Kalogen formula in the Chemistry section. This developer produces brilliant neutral tone prints and has the added benefit of a very long shelf life. The concentrate keeps for years in sealed bottles and for months in partially filled ones.

 

[tbm]

I've been successfully using the Arista standard paper developer (manufactured by Clayton and renamed) for years which is sold by Freestyle Camera in Hollywood, California. It gives me outstanding contrast and tonality.

 

[Maine-iac]

There have been some very good comments about the recently released Ilford developers that make them seem worthy of a trial. I've settled into Ryuji's DS-14 for every day use here. It's very stable and gives just the touch of warmth that I like on Ilford MG materials. The formula is at:

DS-14

There has also been some recent positive discussion of the Clayton products:

Clayton

I've gotten some samples to try but haven't gotten to testing it yet.

I experimented with a new mix the other night. Pretty much the same as Ansco 125 or Dektol, except I used less sulfite and substituted ascorbic acid for the HQ. Worked very well. Neutral to slightly cool tone (use of bromide instead of Orthazite warms it up.)

Here's the formula I used:
2tsp. Metol
3Tbs. Sulfite
1tsp. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
10 ml Edwal Liquid Orthazite (mostly benzotriazole)

I didn't add the Carbonate, because I often use my developer divided with the carbonate in a separate bath. But if I want to make a single solution developer, I just throw a little carbonate (amount not critical) in the tray and let it dissolve. As long as the pH is around 10, the amount of carbonate doesn't seem to matter.

Pat Gainer told me that actually I can increase the ascorbic acid considerably to improve tray life--up to four times the amount of Metol. I haven't tried that yet, but will.

Larry

 

[firecracker]

I use Ilford Multigrade developer on my (leftover) Agfa MC FB. But for Ilford paper (RC and FB), it's a little too cold. So, for that I go back to Kodak Dektol.

One good thing about the Ilford developer is it's a liquid type and easy to use.