What are your favorite Paper Developers?

[Diaga67]

I wanted to ask everyone what your favorite paper developers are. I have experience with Ilford Multigrade and Kodak Dektol only. I am finding it hard to find written resources on what the effects of different chemistry combinations are, so any suggestions with this would be very helpful as well!

As a new person to the darkroom, I am finding the information in APUG fantastic! Thanks everyone for your help!

Jim

 

[MurrayMinchin]

Hi Jim, welcome aboard APUG!

What kind of paper(s) are you using?

Murray

 

[craigclu]

There have been some very good comments about the recently released Ilford developers that make them seem worthy of a trial. I've settled into Ryuji's DS-14 for every day use here. It's very stable and gives just the touch of warmth that I like on Ilford MG materials. The formula is at:

DS-14

There has also been some recent positive discussion of the Clayton products:

Clayton

I've gotten some samples to try but haven't gotten to testing it yet.

 

[Daniel Lawton]

I find that with VC papers most neutral tone developers perform about the same with little visual difference between them so I use the one who's working solution lasts a long time and is easy to use. Right now that is Agfa Neutol but apparently I'll be searching for something else once it runs out.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Traditional Prints - Dectol 1-1/2 or 1-2 , I have been using this Developer for years and I see no need to change.

Lith Printing - Champion Nova Lith A-B > 1-10 with 1part old developer

Solarization - Mr Jollys formula.

I am interested in the testing of Ilfords new Developers and would like to see Les's results here in Toronto at the APUG conference.

 

[David Brown]

I am interested in the testing of Ilfords new Developers and would like to see Les's results here in Toronto at the APUG conference.

Unless I misunderstood Les the other day - that will be possible.

 

[MurrayMinchin]

I've settled into Ryuji's DS-14 for every day use here. It's very stable and gives just the touch of warmth that I like on Ilford MG materials. The formula is at:

DS-14

Hi Craigclu, I went to the link and found this in the first paragraph;

"In old literature, two stage print development is often described as a way to control contrast. In this technique, exposed print is first processed in a standard or high contrast print developer for some time, followed by a low contrast developer. The contrast was controlled by adjusting the time spent in each developer".

This must be a typo? The procedure, as described by Ansel in The Print, is to start with the soft developer, then finish with the normal developer.

Murray

 

[Foto Ludens]

My paper developer is mixed from raw chemicals, but since you asked .... I use ID-78 (see the formulae section of APUG), but I double the amount of sodium sulfite the chemistry asks for. I then Dilute it 1:3 for use. The working solution lasts a LONG time, only loosing a bit of contrast at first, but then stabilizing. I have 4 liters of working solution mixed, and replentish 1 liter at a time whenever necessary (due to spills, or paper carry over, etc).

This version of ID-78 is very close to AGFA Neutol WA, which I used before and liked. Neutol WA might still be offered, from what I gather, so it might be worth a try. The working solution does not last as long, but the stock last a while.

Ilford Multigrade and Dektol are neutral to cold tone developers, while ID-78 (as I use it, at least) and Neutol WA are warm tone developers. The difference with neutral papers might be subtle, but worth it.

André

 

[removed account4]

i am a fan of ansco 130.
in stock solution it lasts for a very long time.

the only down-side to it is that you have to buy the chemicals separately or in a kit and mix it yourself like a mad-scientist.

-john

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

i am a fan of ansco 130.
in stock solution it lasts for a very long time.

the only down-side to it is that you have to buy the chemicals separately or in a kit and mix it yourself like a mad-scientist.

-john

I also like Ansco 130 (I mix it myself) and I get good results with my TEA modification of DS-14 (see the Apug Chemical Recipes).

For Grade 2 (Canadian) Azo, I use a split development procedure:

My First Developer is Ilford ID-78

My Second Developer is PPPD (the version recently modified by Donald Miller)

For Grade 3 Azo I use Michael Smith's Amidol Formula

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I haven't tried mixing paper developers from raw chemicals yet (so little time), that I rely on finished products. I really like the Glycin developer sold at www.fineartphotosupply.com (owned by the Formulary).

As you continue to develop the paper in the developer, it builds richer blacks instead of building overall density as with other developers I've tried. Prints get a very rich, saturated black, and the highlights nicely glow. It's pretty expensive, however, and the powder bought from FAPS should be mixed right away. I use 4 x quart bottles for the stock solution, and tightly cap them. Then I use 1 quart per printing session. The stock lasts for about 6 months, but mine never sits around that long.

- Thom

 

[Rob Archer]

My favourite print dev of the moment is Fotospeed WT10 Warmtone. I use is with most papers as I like a warm(ish) tone. At 1+9 it gives just a hint of warmth with Ilford MGFB. The best results I've got are with Fotospeed Legacy at 1+19 (saves money as well!) Full developing time of about 3 mins so there theres plenty of scope for fine tuning it. I not sure you can get it 'across the pond', though.

Rob

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

I haven't tried mixing paper developers from raw chemicals yet (so little time), that I rely on finished products. I really like the Glycin developer sold at www.fineartphotosupply.com (owned by the Formulary).

As you continue to develop the paper in the developer, it builds richer blacks instead of building overall density as with other developers I've tried. Prints get a very rich, saturated black, and the highlights nicely glow. It's pretty expensive, however, and the powder bought from FAPS should be mixed right away. I use 4 x quart bottles for the stock solution, and tightly cap them. Then I use 1 quart per printing session. The stock lasts for about 6 months, but mine never sits around that long.

- Thom

Of course, Ansco 130 is the Glycin based paper developer that many other paper developers (including Amidol) are measured against.

I have found that Glycin does dissolve quite readily in TEA (Triethanolamine). As a Glycin/TEA stock solution, it should keep for a very, very long time. I will let you know.

 

[nworth]

I've been using Ilford Multigrade developer and Formulary BW-65 a lot recently because of the convenience of the liquid packages. They are also pretty good developers. The BW-65 stock solutions last a very long time. But my favorite is Defender 54-D. You have to mix that one yourself. The differences between it and D-72 are subtle but profound. It has beautiful tones with most modern papers. It also has a relatively short life in the tray.

 

[Gibran]

I have always been a fan of Ilford Bromophen and thankfully it will be available again very soon.

 

[photo8x10]

I personally use Amidol developer for all my works, like formula I use Cole weston's formula. Before I used to develop with Agfa Neutol or Dektol.

Stefano

 

[eumenius]

I mix my own ID-62 (Bromophen, another name ) - it's very convenient, I have plenty of chemicals for it, it keeps very well, and I like the tone it gives. For flatter warmer images, I mix my own Ilford P-Q Universal. Both developers are described somewhere on APUG, but I took the recipes from Russian old books

Zhenya

 

[James Bleifus]

I print with Kentmere Bromide rather than Ilford paper so my preferences may not help but I use Photographer's Formulary 120 and 130 (which I believe is Ansco 120 and 130). I get delicate highlights that I wasn't getting with Amidol and 130 lasts for some time. The 120 is a one-shot developer so I dump the mixed solution after each use. The two developers work well together to control contrast.

Cheers, James

 

[Diaga67]

Thanks so much everyone! The diversity in what everyone uses is very interesting, and I look forward to creating a hit list of developers to try. Please keep the answers coming!

To answer some of the previous posts, I currently use Ilford VC FB paper (for no serious reason other than it is the FB I have used from the beginning), and I am going to begin using Ilford PQ with my new darkroom. I am sure paper choice is a completely different conversation!

I am very interested in trying some of the other formulations out there as I develop my darkroom style, and it really helps knowing why people use what they use (i.e. desire for warm tones, long lasting, contrast, etc.).

Jim

 

[avandesande]

I get a nice silvery tone on RC MG paper with ethol lpd, there was a slight color cast with dektol. I really want to try LPD 1:1 on a warmtone paper to see if I can get that dark chocolate color.

 

[Wayne Frederick]

I like Photographer's Formulary BW-65 because it is economical and gives good results; as a relative beginner at printing I use only Ilford MG RC papers. As I get better at printing I want to try other developers.

 

[c6h6o3]

Amidol. There is no substitute.

 

[stormbytes]

Amidol. There is no substitute.

With what papers? Amidol is classic to (the late) Azo.

 

[pnance]

I been mixing D-72 from scratch, love the tones.

 

[jeroldharter]

I like Edwal UltraBlack and Zone VI. The latter is cheaper and hasbetter shelf life. The former is liquid and therefore more convenient.