What are these stains?

[nbagno]

Rather new to all this...

This was developed in a Jobo CPA-2 w/ Tetenal C-41 1L kit. I also used bottled/filtered water. (Might try distilled next). It was then put in a Senrac roll film dryer.

I used these instruction and followed them to the letter.
[TD="colspan: 4"]5min [/TD] [TD="colspan: 4"]3 (6 x 30secs) [/TD] [TD="colspan: 4"]1 [/TD]

preheat drum	+/- 0.5
color developer	+/- 1	3:15	3:30	3:45	4
bleach fix	+/- 3	4	6	10	15
rinse	+/- 5
stabilizer	+/- 5

The reels had a lot of foam on them after the stabilizer step which I didn't do anything about, but put them right into the dryer. Could this be the cause of the stains? What Can I do about them?

Thanks,

Ned

 

[anikin]

Was that the Tetenal powder kit? The stabilizer in it is rather bad - tends to leave a lot of residue.
First check if this is in fact the stabilizer residue. Usually, it is most prominent on non-emulsion side of the negative. You can use a pec-pad to wipe it on the edge of the negative. If it wipes off easily, then it is the stabilizer. If so, I would buy a bottle of Kodak's C-41 final rinse (it's really cheap), carefully rewash the negative in distilled water and use Kodak's final rinse before drying. And from now on, just use that instead of Tetenal's stabilizer.

 

[nbagno]

Thanks for your reply. It was the liquid kit and it looks to me like it's on both sides of the negative. Pec cleaner seems to have no effect.

 

[anikin]

Oh, in that case I'm sorry, there is probably nothing you can do to recover these negatives. These are probably marks caused by the developer when it was poured onto dry film. Which drum did you use? With 2509 the only way I could get even development is to do a prewet before the developer step. It is helpful anyway to bring the drum and film to the correct temperature. 5 min dry preheat is not sufficient. Instead of the preheat, do two 30sec prewet cycles with water of correct temperature. This gets the best result for me.

 

[nbagno]

I have a 1540 tank so I had two reels in it. I didn't presoak, but did have the drum on for at least 5 minutes in the correct water bath temp. So the developer did go onto dry film.

The jobo instructions say the machine should be level, but shouldn't the tank be level? Mine sits crooked even if the machine is level.

Thanks

 

[anikin]

That's medium format film? I was confused by the picture and thought it was sheet film. In that case I'm back to my original advice: rinse it up in distilled water, finish with final rinse and see if the stain would wash away

Yes, ideally the tank should be level when processing. You may want to adjust water in the processor to make sure the drum is more or less level. It's less critical with film processing because you add a lot of chemicals, but when processing paper, the amounts are rather small so you may get bad coverage.

 

[nbagno]

I'll give it a shot. After scanning the stains really don't show up except in a couple of areas on the smooth background.

Cheers,

Ned

That's medium format film? I was confused by the picture and thought it was sheet film. In that case I'm back to my original advice: rinse it up in distilled water, finish with final rinse and see if the stain would wash away

Yes, ideally the tank should be level when processing. You may want to adjust water in the processor to make sure the drum is more or less level. It's less critical with film processing because you add a lot of chemicals, but when processing paper, the amounts are rather small so you may get bad coverage.

 

[AgX]

The reels had a lot of foam on them after the stabilizer step which I didn't do anything about, but put them right into the dryer.

It is good practice to not use the final bath (whether it's called stabilizer, final rinse or whatever) in a rotating drum.
Some not even use the drum or even the reels but let the film fall into into a seperate cantainer filled with final bath.

Anyway, avoiding foam is beneficial. Whether the wet film should just hung up to dry or wiped off after hanging is an issue that splits people at Apug...

 

[nbagno]

Thanks, I was doing that with Photo-flo when inversion processing with b&w, didn't realize I should do that with stabilizer.

Best Regards,

Ned

It is good practice to not use the final bath (whether it's called stabilizer, final rinse or whatever) in a rotating drum.
Some not even use the drum or even the reels but let the film fall into into a seperate cantainer filled with final bath.

Anyway, avoiding foam is beneficial. Whether the wet film should just hung up to dry or wiped off after hanging is an issue that splits people at Apug...

 

[tnabbott]

It is good practice to not use the final bath (whether it's called stabilizer, final rinse or whatever) in a rotating drum.
Some not even use the drum or even the reels but let the film fall into into a seperate cantainer filled with final bath.

Anyway, avoiding foam is beneficial. Whether the wet film should just hung up to dry or wiped off after hanging is an issue that splits people at Apug...

I put final rinse in separate container. Works great and seems to reduce crud build-up on reels, etc.

 

[removed account4]

i had a teacher who was kind of kooky when it came to final rinse ( color or b/w )
he would put his 2 or 3 drops of the wetting agent in his tank and pull /put the film
through it then whack the tank to DE-bubble ( like pre-wet ) then ...
slowly pour water on the top of the tank and let the foam wash out of the tank ...
then hang without wiping ... he then would say " this film will never be touched by human hands again"
one problem people have with their end-run is they put too much in the tank and it leaves a residue
... a tiny amount works wonders.

good luck getting your film free+ clear!
john