What are the most commonly used B&W darkroom filters?

[gone]

I'm in the process of cutting down a set of Ilford Multigrade filters to fit my Durst 606, and it's slow going cutting them down accurately and taping the perimeter to avoid fingerprints. I started w/ the 00 just to get the feel of things, figuring that one I probably won't use. Would 1, 3 and 5 suffice for getting started? The ones I had went when the Beseler was sold, and they wouldn't translate for the current setup anyway since I'm using a different enlarger, different lenses, and different papers. The Durst seems to have its own mind when it comes to contrast.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The filter pack that comes with the Chromega Dichroic Color Head which is the standard Kodak magneta, yellow and cyan. We all know that magenta is not really a color according to the two letter troll.

 

[Rich Ullsmith]

There are printers here that use a 1 for highlights and 5 for shadows, and everything falls inbetween. Not the way I do it simply because I fear any movement of the neg stage while changing filters midprint.

I generally use a 2, 2 1/2 or 3, because that's where my negs are at. I assume at some point you will have a full complement of filters, right?

 

[DREW WILEY]

Learn how to "split print". Then you can print any contrast range with only the two extreme filters (maximum yellow vs maximum magnenta), or actually, with just deep blue and deep green glass filters. There are probably plenty of past threads on how to do this.

 

[ic-racer]

It is like disabling shutter speeds on your camera. Which ones don't you need? Only you know. Personally I like having all them available.

 

[RobC]

I thought they were quite easy to cut with a pair of "sharp" scissors.

 

[M Carter]

I tend to print at 2.5 - 3.5, but for special prints or tough negs, I do the split with the 00 and the 5. I do like contrasty prints and deep blacks...

I've been concerned about enlarger shake with the filter drawer, but my Ilford filters are decades old so I don't use them under the lens. I finally got deep yellow and CC20m glass filters, 52mm. I just set them in the holder for the safety red-glass thing (below the lens). They match the Ilfords on my light table and they work fine, and I can clean the damn things if needed.

I do really like the split filter techniques discussed in Way Beyond Monochrome. You can really dial in a print very quickly that way.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The filter pack that comes with the Chromega Dichroic Color Head which is the standard Kodak magneta, yellow and cyan. We all know that magenta is not really a color according to the two letter troll.

Rather than only dealing with whole number contrasts, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 with single filters the use of half steps such as 1.5, 2.5, ... is helpful. Using dichrioc filters allow a continuous range from 00 to 5 to choose from.

 

[Xmas]

I'm in the process of cutting down a set of Ilford Multigrade filters to fit my Durst 606, and it's slow going cutting them down accurately and taping the perimeter to avoid fingerprints. I started w/ the 00 just to get the feel of things, figuring that one I probably won't use. Would 1, 3 and 5 suffice for getting started? The ones I had went when the Beseler was sold, and they wouldn't translate for the current setup anyway since I'm using a different enlarger, different lenses, and different papers. The Durst seems to have its own mind when it comes to contrast.

Check that all the optics above the negative are clean and have no mist.

 

[paul_c5x4]

I thought they were quite easy to cut with a pair of "sharp" scissors.

They are, but I'd recommend using a guillotine to ensure the cuts are straight and square.

Do the edges need taping ?
Debatable - I generally wear cotton gloves for handling dry stuff in the darkroom (paper, negs, etc) and pick the filters up by the corners.

 

[Jim Jones]

To keep VC filters clean an Omega B22, I mounted them in 6x6cm glass slide mounts. Lacking slide mounts, one could tape them between sheets of thin glass.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I'm in the process of cutting down a set of Ilford Multigrade filters to fit my Durst 606, and it's slow going cutting them down accurately and taping the perimeter to avoid fingerprints. I started w/ the 00 just to get the feel of things, figuring that one I probably won't use. Would 1, 3 and 5 suffice for getting started? The ones I had went when the Beseler was sold, and they wouldn't translate for the current setup anyway since I'm using a different enlarger, different lenses, and different papers. The Durst seems to have its own mind when it comes to contrast.

That's where a color head comes in handy,giving you any contrast grade you'd ike,but if exposed and developed consistentlya number 2-3 filter should do.For split-grade printing you need #1and #5

 

[Bob Carnie]

I just keep buying from Ilford when the filters get dirty..

I use my mouth to hold the main filter when going to the high and low filter and therefore get some slobber on the filter which means buying new.

I have about 5 boxes going at anyone time with all the grades and over time just throw out the bad ones and replace with new.

Over 20 years of split filtering I think I have purchased about 8 sets of these filters so its not a huge investment .

 

[RobC]

if the filters are above the negative a little way, a few finger prints won't make the slightest difference. Its only when they are below the lens you will have problems.

And besides, if the tape you're putting round them is to stop finger prints does it really help? That bit of the filter isn't being used so the finger prints around edge would make no difference. i.e. I think you're trying solve a problem that doesn't exist.

 

[fotch]

if the filters are above the negative a little way, a few finger prints won't make the slightest difference. Its only when they are below the lens you will have problems.

And besides, if the tape you're putting round them is to stop finger prints does it really help? That bit of the filter isn't being used so the finger prints around edge would make no difference. i.e. I think you're trying solve a problem that doesn't exist.

+1