What 100 or under ISO film for sunny beach portraits

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ymc226

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I know if you want less contrast, one would develop and agitate less for less pronounced contrast.

If your predominant summer photo taking opportunities were of beach scenes with the family, what slow-ish B&W 120 film would one choose? Rodinal 1+50 would be my developer/dilution of choice. I usually join the family a week at a time (they are there for several months) and I take about 50+ rolls (120 format) each visit. Using 6x9 format so only 8 shots/roll.

Would Pan F+, Fuji Acros be suitable? I haven't shot Acros in 120 but have used several rolls of Pan F+. I do think that Pan F+ has a retro look to it in the that tones are different than any of the more modern films such as Neopan 400, TMY2 or do you think I am just off base? I would like to buy many rolls (500+) and freeze them. I've heard the T grain films don't last as long stored so would like to avoid Tmax 100 or Delta 100.
 

2F/2F

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I'd probably shoot Legacy Pro 100 (Fuji Acros) because it is so cheap and it is a great film. It is available only from Freestyle.
 

Klainmeister

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I'd probably shoot Legacy Pro 100 (Fuji Acros) because it is so cheap and it is a great film. It is available only from Freestyle.

I don't believe they continue to make LP in 120 size any longer. That said, Acros 100 is only 2.79 a roll or so. Granted, it is quite contrasty at times. Pan F+ is always a solid choice, and in brighter situations, you can still stop up enough to get a bokeh of your subjects in the glorious sun.

Just a thought.

What camera are you using? Older, newer? This might just be my experience, but the thicker film base of Pan F+ made my old folder 6x9 a pain in the arse to advance and one of my vintage TLRs didn't like it either.
 
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2F/2F

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My mistake. I totally blanked on the 120 format. I don't think LP was ever made in 120.

But Acros is cheap in 120. It is the best bang for the buck in a 120 film. It is amazing, and inexpensive.

Pan F is good too. But it loses shadow detail very easily. I down rate it to at least 25, and even farther, if I want detail in the shadows (and underdevelop).

I've not heard that T-Max doesn't keep well, but I have heard that about Pan F. I've never confirmed it with Pan F, but I have used 10-year-old room-stored old T-Max 400 with good success.
 

jp498

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Try your favorite 100ish or slower films in caffenol-c developer for lower contrast results. PMK is also a good choice for lower contrast.

Fomapan 100 is also great in caffenol-C but my 120 version of that had scratches last time I tried it (early 2010). This is where the quality control of Ilford or Kodak becomes apparent.

If you can handle the speed, TMY2 at iso 320 in PMK is excellent in bright contrasty conditions like here: http://jason.philbrook.us/gallery3/var/resizes/2010/album216/img283.jpg?m=1295389627
 
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ymc226

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Thanks 2F/2F,

I do down rate when at the beach as I figured it is similar to snow and I use a reflectance meter (Voigtlander II) on a Fuji 6x9 rangefinder. As Klainmmeister stated Acros can be contrasty, but more so than Pan F+ in Rodinal?
 

Nicholas Lindan

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Film and developer choice is largely irrelevant here.

What you need for beach portraiture is lots of reflectors to fill the shadows. Always control contrast by controlling the light. It is only when you can't that N-1 et. al. need be used.

Don't forget a red filter (and a tube of green lipstick) for women and a blue or green filter for men. You can use a green filter on women to give them a tan, but the filter tends to bring out the zits and freckles that a red filter hides.
 

markbarendt

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Film and developer choice is largely irrelevant here.

What you need for beach portraiture is lots of reflectors to fill the shadows. Always control contrast by controlling the light. It is only when you can't that N-1 et. al. need be used.

Yep.
 

George Collier

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Just a different take on your question - using 6x9 negs, grain may not be all that important, and if there is a lot of activity, you may want more speed either for shutter speed or depth of field. If in your position, I would use Delta 400 with HC110, rate a bit low to pick up shadows, and hold back agitation to manage highlights. This combination with normal development gives me 16 x 16 prints with really not noticeable grain. But Rodinal would work well with it too, same agitation strategy. I use Rodinal 1:100 with this film in a semi-stand method, which produces very manageable contrast.
 

benjiboy

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A 3X neutral density filter will solve your problem, and it requires no modification of the film processing.
 
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