Whats your system?

flatulent1 · Apr 10, 2012

Steve Smith said:
Now I understand.

Is the word used for any generic, sealable bag regardless of manufacturer in the same way as Hoover is used to describe any vacuum cleaner?

Steve.

Yes, it is.

Mike Wilde · Apr 10, 2012

A lot of my 35mm is bulk loaded. I load these into the usual plastic can, and affix a 1/2" wide piece of masking tape to the can lid to label what is in the can.

When the roll is done I fully rewind it, and take the tape off of the lid of the now empty can and put it across the cassette gate. I keep a 'Sharpie' fine tipped permanent marker in my camera bag for any special instructiion to number or add to the masking label in the field to allow for altered processing to suit the exposure conditions. The cans with no tape on the lid are by default, exposed.

I have tried different camera bag pockets, or a film drop bag on the camera bag strap, to separate fresh and expsosed films. These approaches did not work well enough for me to want to keep to those systems in use.

I use a leader retriever most often these days (about $6, freestlye). I think it helps the reload cans to keep their end crimps tight, and lets me reuse DX coded cans for the few cameras I have that use DX data. By pasting the tape across the cassette gate I am sure to notice it when it comes time to group films onto reels for common tank processing.

I have started to store the 120 and 220 films I take to shoot outside of my home/studio in 'extended' 35mm cans (I cut the bottom off of one, top off of another, and tape together with gaffer tape to fit the longer roll) I leave the foil pack on until I shoot the film, and then have a clean and grit free place to get the exposed roll home to the lab. The same masking labelling of the top works here.

I know this is crazy, but it works for me.

cliveh · Apr 10, 2012

E. von Hoegh said:
Rewind the leader into the cassette.

Why? As leaving a bit of leader out, means I can cut this off and start loading the spiral in daylight.

cliveh · Apr 10, 2012

Steve Smith said:
As an aside, why do Americans refer to a bag as a baggie? There are at least two examples of this in this thread (you usually leave letters out of words rather than add in extra letters!).Steve.

Steve raises a very good point here, as I often think the language difference between US and Europe can be a bit confusing. For instance in my post about what makes a person photogenic, I got the distinct impression that the US meaning of this word is beautiful, but in England I understood this to be more like photographs well.

cmo · Apr 10, 2012

Many years ago I was on an assignment for a newspaper, three short appointments in the morning and one longer shooting in the afternoon, all black and white. Around lunchtime I had a portrait session, and I rewound the film, but not completely into the cartridge, but I remembered I had taken 21 shots. Then I used a color film and when I was ready I switched back to black and white.

I was in a hurry.

Just imagine what I forgot.

Since that day at the age of 21 I always wind the film completely back into the cartridge or use a felt pen immediately to write on the leader how many shots were used, but I try to avoid taking film out of the camera and in again.

If you think that it's hard to open the cartridges in the darkroom get a cartridge opener like these:

or

Steve Smith · Apr 10, 2012

cliveh said:
Steve raises a very good point here, as I often think the language difference between US and Europe can be a bit confusing. For instance in my post about what makes a person photogenic, I got the distinct impression that the US meaning of this word is beautiful, but in England I understood this to be more like photographs well.

Yes. If someone is described as photogenic, they would be considered to look good in photographs... or photographs well as you put it. It's not limited to people though. A place can be photogenic too.

Steve.

cliveh · Apr 10, 2012

cmo said:
Many years ago I was on an assignment for a newspaper, three short appointments in the morning and one longer shooting in the afternoon, all black and white. Around lunchtime I had a portrait session, and I rewound the film, but not completely into the cartridge, but I remembered I had taken 21 shots. Then I used a color film and when I was ready I switched back to black and white.

I was in a hurry.

Just imagine what I forgot.

Since that day at the age of 21 I always wind the film completely back into the cartridge or use a felt pen immediately to write on the leader how many shots were used, but I try to avoid taking film out of the camera and in again.

If you think that it's hard to open the cartridges in the darkroom get a cartridge opener like these:

View attachment 49255

Yes, but as previously said, leaving a bit of leader out, means I can cut this off and start loading the spiral in daylight without having to bother with a leader extractor.

David A. Goldfarb · Apr 10, 2012

Opening the 35mm cartridge:

For reusable snap-cap cartridges I usually just push the protruding end of the spool down on the table while holding the outer cylinder and the top pops off at the opposite end.

For crimped single-use cartridges, I used to use an ordinary bottle opener, until I got this serious German 35mm cartridge opener (see photo attached).

lacavol · Apr 10, 2012

I rewind and leave the leader out. I then cut the leader off with scissors, put the film into a changing bag and pop the top, then load onto the spiral. I do it this way because I don't like having scissors in my changing bag, I cut the bag once and myself once.

dehk · Apr 10, 2012

Well, when its done the leader will be inside the canister. if i am taking out in mid roll for some reason it will be marked.

Oren Grad · Apr 10, 2012

I rewind all the way into the cassette.

While I'm out and about, I mark the outside of the cassette with a roll sequence number for the day, so that I can match it with my negative log later on. When I get home and complete the negative log, the roll is assigned a catalog number which is added to the cassette. Later, when I have enough rolls to develop, the catalog number ends up as well in a darkroom log where I record the "recipe" used for each developing run, so if there's any question about the resulting negatives I can always go back and determine how they were processed.

In the darkroom, I open the cassette with a simple bottle/can opener that I bought for 19 cents about 30 years ago - the most cost-effective investment I've ever made in photo gear. I think it might cost 49 cents if I needed to replace it today.

removed account4 · Apr 10, 2012

i don't have a system
i just rewind 35mm in the canister.

hoffy · Apr 10, 2012

If the leader is still sticking out, I bend over the last 10mm of the leader so it has a defined crease in it. I then roll the leader back into the canister until the only thing sticking out is the crimped film.

Otherwise I just roll it in all the way (usually by mistake!)

Pumalite · Apr 11, 2012

benjiboy said:
I make sure I wind the leader completely in the cassette so it's impossible to reload it then stick a red adhesive label on the cassette on which I write "Exposed" with a Sharpie then I put it back in the plastic case it came in.

+1

X. Phot. · Apr 12, 2012

The easiest way for me to tell them apart is that the unexposed rolls are the rolls going into the camera, and exposed rolls are the rolls being removed from the camera. So, to remember . . . it's IN = Unexposed, OUT = Exposed. Keeping rolls separated outside of the camera might present a challenge for some. In that scenario . . . the exposed film can be recognized by the images that form during development. You really shouldn't see those images with unexposed film . . . unless you left your camera unattended at the party.

Whats your system?

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