Newt_on_Swings
Member
Ive been scanning with a HP G4050 flatbed, and I scan routinely at 2400 dpi. (I think its 4000dpi max? but never saw a difference only longer time) The film is placed in a raised carrier off the scanner glass. Vue Scan is the program used.
The resolution of 35mm and 120 film scans I get, are never as high or crisp as my prints unless I retouch them. I use a similar setup, LPL670xl, Rodagon 50/2.8 or Componon S 50/2.8 for 35mm, (new Componon S 80/4 on the way for 6x6) in the glassless carriers, on Ilford VC RC pearl mostly, at 8x10 and 11x14. I always check level for enlarger head and baseboard before sessions, and use a Mircromega grain finder for focusing. Prints are developed in dektol diluted usually 1:2, or 1:3.
From the posts so far, I think it maybe a combination of changes in post that create a more apparently sharpened image, editing tools like the sharpness slider in camera raw, or any number of filters or sharpening masks tweak the acutance. and as you said the print looked more contrasty, contrast plays a big part in perceived sharpness as well. besides printing on different grades, compare the same images on matte, semi gloss/matte/pearl, and glossy surfaces and you can see the differences clearly on how paper type can affect contrast, which affects the crispness the image looks. The images on matte paper look naturally flatter and less contrasty.
One other thing, with large blow ups, the head height and column vibration play a big part with sharpness. the slightest shake can be transmitted and create a blurry print. Even if you think its rock solid, there is still shake. wait for a few seconds after focusing and loading paper before you expose.
The resolution of 35mm and 120 film scans I get, are never as high or crisp as my prints unless I retouch them. I use a similar setup, LPL670xl, Rodagon 50/2.8 or Componon S 50/2.8 for 35mm, (new Componon S 80/4 on the way for 6x6) in the glassless carriers, on Ilford VC RC pearl mostly, at 8x10 and 11x14. I always check level for enlarger head and baseboard before sessions, and use a Mircromega grain finder for focusing. Prints are developed in dektol diluted usually 1:2, or 1:3.
From the posts so far, I think it maybe a combination of changes in post that create a more apparently sharpened image, editing tools like the sharpness slider in camera raw, or any number of filters or sharpening masks tweak the acutance. and as you said the print looked more contrasty, contrast plays a big part in perceived sharpness as well. besides printing on different grades, compare the same images on matte, semi gloss/matte/pearl, and glossy surfaces and you can see the differences clearly on how paper type can affect contrast, which affects the crispness the image looks. The images on matte paper look naturally flatter and less contrasty.
One other thing, with large blow ups, the head height and column vibration play a big part with sharpness. the slightest shake can be transmitted and create a blurry print. Even if you think its rock solid, there is still shake. wait for a few seconds after focusing and loading paper before you expose.