Welta Weltini

[Donald Qualls]

Hmm. Looks like the Cludor was designed with internal sync, while the Vebur needed it added (either at the factory during manufacture, or aftermarket) as did the Compur-Rapid. Still seems odd that it would be X with that trigger, but I'll try to turn up one of my strobe adapters (hot shoe adapter with a PC cord) or a strobe with a cord built in, or the plug-in sync cord for the one strobe I have out, so I can test the shutter. If you see the shutter fully open with a strobe, it's X; if not, it's M (or in need of repair). You can also use the strobe to observe the position of the cocking lever when the flash fires to confirm.

 

[AgX]

The Vebur is the Cludor re-designed for massproduction.

 

[JPD]

I wonder if that tab is just to stop the shutter from moving when you use force to cock the shutter? In the manual for the Welti I it says:

Important: When setting the shutter, carefully observe the following: - Use considerable pressure in winding the shutter at the highest speeds (Compur R = 1/500th sec., Vebur = 1/250th sec.). Therefore, in order to avoid displacement of the lens carrier, it it necessary to balance the pressure by supporting the shutter while pushing up the winding-lever.​

 

[Donald Qualls]

I don't think so -- it's got a very light spring action and its pivot appears to be on the back side of the shutter housing, not on the front standard. Once the sync cord I just bought arrives (Saturday, says eBay) I'll be able to check if the flash fires when the tab is released (I can move it easily with a fingernail) and verify the sync type (M or X).

 

[Donald Qualls]

Say, @JPD , I don't suppose that Weltini manual mentions what filter thread the f/2 Xenon has -- I have a 30mm spring-clip lens cap that fits, but that just means it's between 29.5 and 30.5 -- which is NOT interchangeable for filter thread purposes.

EDIT: okay, I found that the Retina-Xenon the same specs (50mm f/2.0) uses a 29.5mm filter -- can anyone confirm that the one on a Weltini is the same?

 

[Huss]

I still have my Iskra; a better camera than it has any right to be. It does, indeed, make the Retina seem like helium by comparison. And the Iskra is a featherweight next to a Moskva!

I still use a Mockba 5. The Iskra is definitely heavier!

 

[Donald Qualls]

Well, I finally got a sync adapter to use with my Weltini -- a hot shoe with PC cord that attaches on either an accessory shoe or a tripod. Hooked it up, put a lens cap on the Weltini (which is loaded with film at present), and cocked and fired the shutter (using the on-shutter release, bypassing the linkage in the body to avoid locking the double exposure prevention). Not only is the tab discussed earlier apparently unrelated to the flash sync (nothing happens when the tab is moved or released), the sync does appear to be X, because the flash fires near the end of the cocking lever's travel, rather than near the beginning. I'll shoot a few flash frames on this roll to confirm, but this fits what I've been hearing, that all the Compur-Rapid retrofit syncs were X type.

 

[BobD]

I had a Weltini II. It's a neat looking camera but, as I recall, it was complex to use. It had some sort of weird sequence for advancing the film (I don't recall details) and cocking the shutter and it was awkward for me to shoot with so I sold it. I liked it but had too many shelf cameras as it was.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Film advance and shutter cocking are independent, just like on the Balda Jubilette I've had for years. I never found that one difficult -- but then I've shot lots of folders (and aside from not having a red window -- or needing one -- this works much like a larger RF folder, say, my Super Ikonta B). The only thing I find awkward is it's left-handed, due to Welta turning it upside down to have space on (new) top for the RF. So it opens to the left, advances to the left, focuses with the right hand and shutter release is on the left. That's just the learning curve of any "new" camera from the folder era.

 

[Kino]

The advance sequence on mine is press a tab on the lower body frame to release the film sprocket, advance the film until it locks, cock the shutter (push it UPWARDS), compose and shoot.

Repeat.

You have to decide on a pattern of film advancing to avoid leaving the shutter under tension while stored. Either advance the film and cock the shutter just before shooting OR never advance the film until you see a photo you want to take.

 

[Donald Qualls]

You have to decide on a pattern of film advancing to avoid leaving the shutter under tension while stored. Either advance the film and cock the shutter just before shooting OR never advance the film until you see a photo you want to take.

Much more important than that (though mine's a button on the bottom plate rather than that edge tab -- my other one, with the f/2.9 Cassar, has that version) is that you MUST NOT attempt to fold the camera while the shutter is cocked. The cocking lever will interfere with the body when the lens retracts (same reason the focus resets to infinity when you close). My Cassar Weltini came to me with the lever bent due to this exact issue, and that's one of the two things I have to fix on it.

I advance film immediately after exposing, just as with ever other camera I own (folders or otherwise) -- but I cock the shutter either immediately after focusing or just before, after I'm committed to the shot. Yes, it is possible to cap the lens and fire the shutter from its own lever without locking the body release, but I don't normally carry a lens cap for a folding camera.

 

[Kino]

Come to think of it, my Weltini also has the provision of needing to trip the shutter to close. I haven't shot a roll with it yet, so I have just had it out on display and didn't try closing it with the shutter cocked.

Guess I need to adopt your practice of always advancing the film, but not cocking the shutter until I need to make an exposure.

Interesting cameras; takes a bit to get used to how they operate and how they feel.

 

[Don Harpold]

Still waiting for photos.
Thanks
Don

 

[Donald Qualls]

I posted one in the "Post your Street Photography" thread in the Street section yesterday. Not, I'm afraid, the best the camera is capable of, but it was what I had that fit that thread. I've got my second roll (XP2 Super) in the camera now, and I'll try to put up a couple examples from the first roll (Ultrafine Extreme 100) when I'm home.

Edit: Ah, just remembered, I posted a Gallery shot from the Weltini: https://www.photrio.com/forum/media/tall.63729/

 

[Kino]

I have just loaded and started shooting a roll of Ektar 100 color negative. Hopefully I will post a few pictures in a week or so. I have the added handicap of the rear element being scarred by fungus etching, so I don't know exactly how everything will work out, but hopefully it won;t be too bad.

One thing about the viewfinder; it certainly doesn't seem to faithfully represent the 50mm lens field of view. It looks more on the order of 70mm or so. Made me start thinking of why so many older snapshots might be more loosely framed than how we tend to compose currently...

 

[Donald Qualls]

One thing about the viewfinder; it certainly doesn't seem to faithfully represent the 50mm lens field of view. It looks more on the order of 70mm or so. Made me start thinking of why so many older snapshots might be more loosely framed than how we tend to compose currently...

And I thought this was just because of the combination of tiny eyepiece and my glasses. But the eyepiece isn't really any smaller than the one on my Kiev 4, and I don't have problems framing with a 50mm on that camera. As you suggest , this may have been intentional back in the day, as cut-off was a bigger problem for most users than excessive inclusion. In my case, I could mount my Leitz auxiliary finder, if I choose (I bought it for the 35mm and 70mm lenses for my Kiev).

 

[Kino]

I'll have to get a roll back and see if my theory is justified...

 

[Kino]

This is the Weltini II and, obviously not Ektar film!

Seems the viewfinder is fairly accurate on this camera, and I had to back-pedal a lot further than I thought I would for a 50mm lens. Makes me think the effective focal length is longer than 50mm for sure.

I had a lot of problems with shutter speeds dragging, the advance release hanging a couple of times (breaking perfs twice) and leather fibers from the disintegrating case migrating into the bellows. What few shots I could salvage were pretty decent as far as lens performance, but it would have been much better if I had developed the Arista EDU 100 in XTOL or some other lower contrast developer rather than D76 1:1.

I had to do a lot of work with curves to salvage the dino image; it was about 2 stops over exposed. Seems the longer I shot with the camera, the slower the shutter cycled.

It stands to be a good camera, but I have a lot of bugs to work out before I can call it a daily user.

The Exchange Hotel Civil War Hospital in Gordonsville, VA. Dinosaur Land in White Post, VA.

 

[Xylo]

Not too shabby for something this old.
I've always found 35mm folders to be intriguing.
I have a Weltix which I really need to try.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Do it, @Xylo. My Weltini (with Xenon f/2.0) is my top daily carry camera.

 

[Xylo]

Do it, @Xylo. My Weltini (with Xenon f/2.0) is my top daily carry camera.

I guess I have no choice now
I always find it a bit funny to see how big this camera is when compared to something like the XA.
I don't know, but somehow I expect it to give the photos a look that is quite similar to what my 1st generation Kodak-35 does.