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WD2H+ pyro agitation

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JW PHOTO

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I just want to throw this question out there and see if anyone has a preference. I mainly use WD2D+ and like it very much, but after reading about WD2H+ and your ability to play with contrast I decided to try it. I mixed up a batch sometime ago and used it with some 4X5 sheet film and some 120 film also. With sheet film I used continuous agitation in a tray and really liked the results. For 120 roll film, in tank, I used 30 sec. initial agitation and then 10 sec. every minute. I have searched the net for a suggested agitation regime for WD2H+, but can find nothing on roll film. My last roll of HP5+ came out just a tad dense, but still printed very nice. I've tried many developers, but keep coming back to Wimberley's brews and I think I'll stay there for now. Does anybody else here use WD2H+ for roll film??? John W
 

jim appleyard

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Yes, I do. The instructions call for 30 sec. of agitation each min. That sounds like a lot, but it seems to work. Great with APX 400, an often overlooked film, IMO.
 
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JW PHOTO

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Yes, I do. The instructions call for 30 sec. of agitation each min. That sounds like a lot, but it seems to work. Great with APX 400, an often overlooked film, IMO.

Jim,
Where did you find that information? I looked everywhere and drew a blank. I had the instructions for WD2D+, which were a 30 sec. initial agitation followed by a 15 sec. agitation every 30 sec.. That seemed like a lot for WD2D+, but the negatives came out near perfect. John W
 

jim appleyard

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I misspoke here: your care correct, the agitation is for 15 sec each 30. That may do something different that 30 sec. each min, but the math is the same.
 
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JW PHOTO

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Jim,
Is that from the horses mouth? Is that what John Wimberley suggested? That's the same as WD2D+ for agitation. It would make sense that Wimberley would want to stay the same I guess. My problem was I couldn't find any published time for agitation. John W
 
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JW PHOTO

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I asked John about this a few years ago and he said same agitation as with WD2D+ (ie 15s of each 30s).

Hope this helps.

Michael,
Yes, it puts an end to my question. I really like both WD2D+ and WD2H+ and think I'm done playing around with developers for a while. I had been using a lot of Pyrocat-MC, but there is just something I like about WD2H+ and that's the sky rendition I get. Not just the clouds and highlights, but the sky itself looks better. Not important in a portrait or still-life, but in landscapes with large hunks of open sky I like WD2H+ the best. I still have some Perceptol, Rodinal and Thorton's 2-bath for certain films and scenes, but I'm going to really hone this Wimberley pyro stuff. Thanks again, John W
 

jim appleyard

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Jim,
Is that from the horses mouth? Is that what John Wimberley suggested? That's the same as WD2D+ for agitation. It would make sense that Wimberley would want to stay the same I guess. My problem was I couldn't find any published time for agitation. John W

This is off of the instruction sheet that comes with the dev. There are several times listed on this sheet for various films.
 
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JW PHOTO

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This is off of the instruction sheet that comes with the dev. There are several times listed on this sheet for various films.

Jim,
Instruction sheet for WD2H+? I didn't know there was one since I thought WD2H+ was only a home-brew type developer and not marketed. Well, it doesn't matter anyway since Michael got the answer straight from John. John W
 
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JW PHOTO

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You can purchase this dev from Photographers Formulary and with it comes the instruction sheet telling about agitation and it also gives various film times.

http://stores.photoformulary.com/film/?sort=featured&page=3

Jim,
Yes, I bought some WD2D+ from them a long time ago, but they don't list or sell WD2H+. WD2H+ gives you a little more control over contrast than WD2D+. Of course I really don't see much difference, but it's nice to know that control is there if needed. Sorry for the confusion. John W
 
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