WD2D+ and fog (or stain?) at edges

[Jarin Blaschke]

So tonight I developed two batches of HP5 with a developer I have had some experience with, WD2D+. For the first time, I have fog near the edges of the 6x7 frames, at and somewhat around where they had contact with the reel. They for the most part only ruin the very edges of the images, but occasionally reach deeply. There is also fog, in some vague swirly patterns at the head and foot of each roll.

There are a couple variables I can think of that may have something to do with it, perhaps some can comment:

-The bottles of A and B are at least 8 months old, and have been in my warm LA summer apartment for the summer. They have been at low levels (30%)in the bottle for a maybe a couple months.
-I mixed the developer with 68 degree distilled water, but the presoak, stop (I use water) and final wash were using our very warm summer tap water - 76+ degrees

I usually agitate this developer for 15 seconds every minute - I know that I'm supposed to use more but it's a relic from my catechin days when I would semi stand for edge effects and compensation. Anyway, after seeing the fog, I increased agitation 4 full inversions (5-10 seconds) every 30 seconds. This appears to have made it even a bit worse for the second batch!

Presumably the fog/stain could only be caused by pyro via oxidation products? Why would this be at the edges of the film? Any input?

There is fresh chemistry on the way - I very much this will improve things. However in the meantime I'd like to understand why this is happening for the future. Thanks!

J

 

[Xmas]

refix immediately

 

[Jarin Blaschke]

Could you elaborate why? For fix, I gave it 4 minutes in TF-3 (as per Darkroom cookbook) but with half the sulfite and indicated Sodium Metaborate. I've used this countless times. Does Ammonium sulfite go bad? I poured it from the 60% gallon jug. How would this affect things?

 

[Xmas]

stain can be inadequate fixing
fixing it again won't damage
sodium thio is stable
fix by inspection or use test strips

 

[JW PHOTO]

stain can be inadequate fixing
fixing it again won't damage
sodium thio is stable
fix by inspection or use test strips

I have two bottles, A & B, of WD2D+ I got from PF way more then a year ago and it still works great. These are still in the original non-glass bottles about half used. I worry more about "B" going flat than I do about the "A" going bad. This is a very good developer and if you follow the directions as to pre-soaking and agitation it is very consistent. At least for me anyway. I'm not saying it can't go flat, but it's never happened to me. Knock on wood! John W

 

[Jim Noel]

The most often overlooked culprit- the reels. Especially if you use Photo-flo which sticks to the reels becomes a catalyst and with time a staining agent.
Scrub the grooves of your reels with a tooth brush and hot water.

 

[Jarin Blaschke]

Thanks Michael:

I'll try some of these things. I've used this developer probably 25 times before, in the same way described above without problem, but maybe not yet in 120. 35mm and 4x5 (hangers in tank) HP5, FP4 and even Delta 3200 (although thin)never had any problems.

I always mix TF3 fresh per session and never keep it longer than a day. I may switch back to TF4 anyway.

The A solution was a medium to light yellow, not dark.

I wish I had a scanner to show the negs.

I don't use photo flo but will get an extra toothbrush and scrub anyway...

 

[Jarin Blaschke]

No scanner, but here are some snaps from my iPhone!You can see patterns where the film was in contact at the head of the reel as well..