WD-40 Dry PTFE on cheap old users

[Robin Guymer]

I have paid $ hundreds on CLA's for my classic cameras. But for some old user SLR's bought cheaply I have had great results with a spray up into the mechanics with this specialist dry lube. One particular $12 Nikon FE was not working over 1/250th. Some spray got it working to above 1/1000th but still locking up on auto with the needle above A. Now after a few months sitting, this Nikon will fire at 1/4000th with the lens off and pointing skywards. It sounds as neat as my other FE's at all speeds.

I understand that the standard WD-40 leaves a residue that can jamb up a camera mechanics, but what are your thoughts on this specialist dry lube version?

 

[Leigh B]

I don't understand your use of WD-40 and PTFE in the same sentence.

WD-40 is paraffin (wax) in a solvent carrier.
The solvent evaporates, leaving a thin layer of paraffin.

PTFE is Teflon, which has nothing to do with WD-40.

- Leigh

 

[OptiKen]

Thanks for that tip. I had never heard of WD-40s PTFE dry lubricant before. I was surprised that they have an entire line of Specialist Lubes.
This one sounds perfect for the job as long as the parts are clean prior to use and then only lightly. Slippery dirt will travel.
I just ordered a can for myself.

 

[BrianShaw]

It might be good stuff but I don't know of any reasonable application for a spray lubricant an a shutter, clock or watch.

I might use it on my car, scateboard and other household items though.

 

[Photo Engineer]

My reading on WD40 shows that it is made from a fish oil base that makes up part of the hydrocarbon. It does leave a residue, whatever it is.

PE

 

[shutterfinger]

WD40 has become a trade name for the company as it is well recognized.
Read the product description before making comments.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/
DuPont Dry Film Teflon goes on wet and drys leaving the teflon coating behind. Parts coated with it such as aperture blades will stick together after the carrier fluid has dried and the aperture operated a few times to polish out the teflon, the WD40 product may do the same.
This thread is the first I've heard of it.

 

[BrianShaw]

My reading on WD40 shows that it is made from a fish oil base that makes up part of the hydrocarbon. It does leave a residue, whatever it is.

PE

Are you talking about this or regular wd-40?

https://www.wd40specialist.com/pdf/specialist-dry-lube2014.pdf

 

[removed account4]

wd 40 does not contain fish oi that is an urban legend
http://www.snopes.com/inboxer/household/wd-40.asp

 

[Wayne]

I have paid $ hundreds on CLA's for my classic cameras. But for some old user SLR's bought cheaply I have had great results with a spray up into the mechanics with this specialist dry lube. One particular $12 Nikon FE was not working over 1/250th. Some spray got it working to above 1/1000th but still locking up on auto with the needle above A. Now after a few months sitting, this Nikon will fire at 1/4000th with the lens off and pointing skywards. It sounds as neat as my other FE's at all speeds.

I understand that the standard WD-40 leaves a residue that can jamb up a camera mechanics, but what are your thoughts on this specialist dry lube version?

Check the ingredients. Some so-called PTFE lubes are actually mixtures of PTFE and something else. Whether it is good for your cameras may depend on what that something is.

 

[shutterfinger]

Yes, that's the stuff.
https://www.wd40company.com/files/p...alist-dirt-dust-resistant-dry-lube-us-ghs.pdf
Check the ingredients on page 2, Mineral Oil 1%-5%. Interesting.

 

[Leigh B]

Check the ingredients on page 2, Mineral Oil 1%-5%. Interesting.

Mineral oil ain't fish oil, unless you catch some very solid fish.

- Leigh

 

[Photo Engineer]

There have been so many articles on the liquid form that it is difficult to tell truth from fiction. Same thing with films. Sorry if my info is wrong, but one thing is true. Any spray like this, solid or liquid, will have the chance of leaving a residue.

PE

 

[Wayne]

There have been so many articles on the liquid form that it is difficult to tell truth from fiction. Same thing with films. Sorry if my info is wrong, but one thing is true. Any spray like this, solid or liquid, will have the chance of leaving a residue.

PE

And the Dupont stuff definitely does leave a residue, and a visible one at that. LPS does not leave any visible residue, but I wont say it doesn't leave any residue

 

[shutterfinger]

There have been so many articles on the liquid form that it is difficult to tell truth from fiction. Same thing with films. Sorry if my info is wrong, but one thing is true. Any spray like this, solid or liquid, will have the chance of leaving a residue.

That's the purpose of a PTFE lubricant, leave a residue of teflon and nothing more.

 

[Ian Grant]

This thread prompts me to buy a can of this WD40 Dry PTFE spray when I get home later this week. I can see benefits with many of the shutters I store used judiciously. (Not thinking Compur/Copal).

I have used regular WD40 on shutters in the past to remove corrosion and free up stuck parts, however only as a remedial stage in a last resort and it's worked extremely well but taken care to remove all traces before reassembly and final lubrication. THis new spray offers some benefits so is worth a try.

Ian

 

[Photo Engineer]

That's the purpose of a PTFE lubricant, leave a residue of teflon and nothing more.

It is a residue. And residues can do things to fine mechanical equipment.

PE

 

[Ian Grant]

It is a residue. And residues can do things to fine mechanical equipment.

PE

Just get real a bit more often. Sometimes that's the way things works, you constantly post negative comments even when the contrary might be true.

Ian

 

[OptiKen]

It's been stated before, but please remember exactly what type of camera the OP is suggesting using this for:
WD-40 Dry PTFE on cheap old users
I don't think anyone is suggesting to use it on a camera that you value as a 'keeper'.

 

[wiltw]

There have been so many articles on the liquid form that it is difficult to tell truth from fiction. Same thing with films. Sorry if my info is wrong, but one thing is true. Any spray like this, solid or liquid, will have the chance of leaving a residue.

PE

Ingredients, taken from the Material Safety Data Sheet filed in 2014 for WC-40

• Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 45-50
• Petroleum Base Oil
• LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
• Surfactant Proprietary
• Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture

In 2002 the MSDS for the Aerosol version of WD-40 is more specific about the hydrocarbons...

• NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM)
• HYDROTREATED HEAVY MINERAL OIL

 

[Robin Guymer]

I'm pleased to see such positive feedback on this dry spray lube. I was thinking I'd get it in the neck and be kicked off APUG for life.

I've used it on a couple of Canon A1's to fix the dreaded squeal. One was so bad it needed more than just a squirt. Both are now working as sweet as after 12 months. When giving a bit more than a small squirt the lube will spread and you'll see it on the shutter curtain which will freak you out. But it dries off quickly and lightly wiping off the excess helps. What else can freak you out is the electrics will go off grid for a short while. But again on every time this occurred the electrics came back on line as soon as the spray dried.

This stuff is my go to fix for -$100 cameras but I wouldn't go near a collector Nikon F3 or a Leica. But a cranky old F2 that can take a ricochet from a Kalashnikov, gets a new lease on life with a light squirt. Anyway don't stress, in another 40 years the camera tech engineers will send in the team of nano robots that will do a full CLA and restore.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Ingredients, taken from the Material Safety Data Sheet filed in 2014 for WC-40

• Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 45-50
• Petroleum Base Oil
• LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
• Surfactant Proprietary
• Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture

In 2002 the MSDS for the Aerosol version of WD-40 is more specific about the hydrocarbons...

• NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM)
• HYDROTREATED HEAVY MINERAL OIL

Wilt, the two "oil" materials do not commonly evaporate at room temperature, and in fact the last item is often used in high vacuum pumps due to its low vapor pressure. At least that is what I can dredge up.

PE

 

[BetterSense]

The owners of the WD-40 trademark have ruined it as a brand by using the "WD-40" name on dozens of different unrelated lubricants.

Original WD-40 still exists, but there are many (some very good) products being sold under the WD-40 brand that are totally unrelated. The WD-40 specialist corrosion resistant product is very good for avoiding rust in high humidity/salt spray environments, where actual WD-40 would be useless.

 

[Arklatexian]

WD40 has become a trade name for the company as it is well recognized.
Read the product description before making comments.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/
DuPont Dry Film Teflon goes on wet and drys leaving the teflon coating behind. Parts coated with it such as aperture blades will stick together after the carrier fluid has dried and the aperture operated a few times to polish out the teflon, the WD40 product may do the same.
This thread is the first I've heard of it.

While I know nothing about WD40 with teflon, I have used one of their products that is made as a contact cleaner and it works. As to regular WD40, I had a compur shutter that was sticking and I sprayed it with regular WD40. It was no longer usable. I had two different repairmen try to get the residue WD40 out of that shutter without success. Finally recoverewd the use of that lens by having it mounted in a Copal shutter by Grimes. My advice is don't let WD40 (regular) get within a mile or a couple of kilometers of your camera equipment and be careful using any "spray"......Regards!