Wash temperature for C-41

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yelmarb

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So Kodak suggests a wash temperature between 24-41C (75-105F). I'm assuming this means that it's fine to wash the film with room temperature water?

However, is there any chance of grain increase or reticulation going from a 38C fixer to say 20C water?
 

Sirius Glass

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Yes, it has to do with different expansion rates for the emulsion and the gelatin.
 

mshchem

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I have always used a constant temperature for developing color or black and white film. It's a doctrine of good lab practice to me.

I may be a wee bit obsessive . Follow the instructions, don't shock the film with sudden changes.
 

Bud Hamblen

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Try to have all your liquids as close to the same temperature as you can. BTW, I've just got a sous vide setup to use as a tempering bath and will give E6 processing a try soon.
 

MattKing

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If you want to use room temperature water to wash C41, you can.
Just allow the film to come slowly to room temperature (or near it) before you do.
Fill and dump twice with water at 38C.
Fill again with water at 38C and let it soak for as long as it takes to cool down to 24C.
Then finish the wash at 24C.
 

RPC

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Color films are sufficiently hardened that some temperature change can be tolerated. The Kodak instructions imply that a change from 100F to 75F is acceptable and I have found this to be the case as I experienced no reticulation or other problems in tests I have done. I have not tried 68F (20C). I would suggest a slow temperature change if that can be managed.
 

Photo Engineer

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The CHANCE of reticulation is increased by temperature variations outside of a few degrees. Modern films are hardened better than older types, but still can suffer from this problem. I answered the original question and it stands. You CAN cause reticulation by variations in wash solution to solution temperature by more than the manufacturer recommends. And, not all films have the same safe range.

PE
 

thuggins

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The Tetenal E-6 kit gives 93-103 for the BLIX and final wash, and 68 to 77 for the Stabilizer. That would be a minimum delta of 16 degrees and a maximum of 35. One would assume that Tetenal would not publish instructions that would damage the film.

My practice is to slowly lower the temperature of the final wash to get it down to room temperature, which is the Stabilizer temperature. Since the final wash runs at least 5 minutes, it is no problem to make a gradual transition. I have never had a roll of film come out "bad".
 

Cholentpot

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My kit says wash at 102 but stab at room temp. No crash there?

I got a sues vide and just did 17 rolls over three evenings. I would highly highly recommend getting one of these doodads, It's a game changer.
 

dmr

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I have always used a constant temperature for developing color or black and white film. It's a doctrine of good lab practice to me. I may be a wee bit obsessive . Follow the instructions, don't shock the film with sudden changes.

Try to have all your liquids as close to the same temperature as you can. BTW, I've just got a sous vide setup to use as a tempering bath and will give E6 processing a try soon.

I've gotten into the habit of starting a flow into a large measuring cup with a dial thermometer right after I start the blix in the Jobo. I'll tweak it to get it fairly close during the blix cycle.
 

koraks

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I routinely wash my C41 films with 1-2 changes of warm (38C) water followed by one or two at tap water temperature (15-20C). I have not yet encountered reticulation with any of the films I tried. However, the temperature transient is fairly big and the risk is certainly there. So far I have just been lucky, I suppose.
Keep in mind that lower wash temperatures are also less effective, as the rate of diffusion drops as temperature is lower.
 
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