Waiting for my Crown Graphic, my first LF camera

shutterfinger · Jul 6, 2015

Stop! Do not attempt to expose another sheet of film until you do this test:
1. remove lens/board from the camera.
2. insert an empty film holder into the camera.
3. pull the darkslide.
4. take the camera into a darkroom.
5. shine a bright light inside the camera via the lens board opening and observe the camera back paying close attention to all sides of the film holder. Point the light at the edges of the film holder and darkslide slot. A 2AA mini mag set to spot at 2 inches works well.

If light is coming from between the film holder and camera back remove the focus panel and clean the dirt from the film holder seating area and light trap grove.
If light is coming from the darkslide slot mark that side as bad and try the other side, repeat for the other film holders.

trondsi · Jul 6, 2015

Thanks everyone!
When I was taking the pictures, I was bothered by flies and the wobbly tripod, so I really think I made multiple mistakes here, this being the first time I use a LF camera. I am getting more certain that the major thing was that the film/film holder was not properly inserted. Good thing I have the old BW film sheets to experiment with.

trondsi · Jul 7, 2015

I just realized that I can't turn the shutter up to the higher shutter speeds. The lens is in great shape, and the shutter speeds seem to be good up to 1/200, but I can't turn it much past that point without using excessive force. I wonder if I should find someone who can repair it or just accept that I probably won't use those speeds. Have any of you experienced this?

shutterfinger · Jul 7, 2015

the shutter speeds seem to be good up to 1/200

They probably are if the negatives look normal. Dense negatives=over exposure=slow speeds=needs servicing.

I can't turn it much past that point without using excessive force.

What is "excessive"? A booster spring is used to achieve the faster speed. You must compress that spring to reach the 400 setting. "Normal" is 2 times normal turning force of the speed ring to 4 times the normal speed ring turning force. It's best to have your fingers 180° apart and grip the ring firmly to turn it. If the fastest speed has not been used much it may be more difficult to turn to it the first few times.

trondsi · Jul 7, 2015

Thanks again Shutterfinger!
It is truly hard to turn it (I was afraid the whole camera would be bent out of shape) but maybe I'll try to set it to higher shutter speeds from time to time to slowly soften it up.

Alan Gales · Jul 7, 2015

trondsi said:
Thanks again Shutterfinger!
It is truly hard to turn it (I was afraid the whole camera would be bent out of shape) but maybe I'll try to set it to higher shutter speeds from time to time to slowly soften it up.

The shutter may need a CLA (clean, lube, adjust). Over time the lubricants in shutters gum up.

I own a Calumet shutter speed tester for checking shutter speeds. They show up on Ebay from time to time for around $150.00. There are cheaper ways of testing the accuracy of your shutter using your computer or an I phone if you want to research it. If you check it and the speeds are off you need a CLA anyway. Figure around $100 for a CLA.

trondsi · Jul 7, 2015

Ok I held the lens firmly and twisted it to 400. After I did this a couple of times it seems easier. I haven't measured the shutter speed at 400 but it sounds fast

shutterfinger · Jul 7, 2015

I assume you have a 135mm in #3 Graphex shutter. All speeds through 100 work off the delay gear train. Set the shutter to 1 sec, set and trip it in sync with the second hand of a clock, repeat for 1/2 second. 1 second should be .8 to 1.2 sec, 1/2 sec should be .4 to .6 sec. If these are correct the others most likely are, if they're off the others definitely are.
An easy to build and use shutter speed tester read the next to last post: http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/0044cW?start=10

Normal test results are 1/100 reads 1/100, 200 reads 1/2 stop slow, 400 reads 200 or 1 stop slow. A worn shutter reads 100 1 stop slow, 200 1 stop slow, 400 1 1/2 to 2 stops slow.

trondsi · Jul 8, 2015

OK, the camera is working fine now that I have gotten more used to it! I just got back two pictures that came out nice and sharp, they show none of the previous problems whatever. I was probably making every mistake in the book when I took the first few shots.

Thanks for your help!

trondsi · Jul 13, 2015

One more question:

What kind of filters would fit the original Optar lens?

shutterfinger · Jul 13, 2015

Series VI (6) with a 38mm / 1 1/2 inch slip on adapter.

Sirius Glass · Jul 13, 2015

shutterfinger said:
Series VI (6) with a 38mm / 1 1/2 inch slip on adapter.

What he said.

trondsi · Jul 15, 2015

Thanks again!

Anyway, I found that the rangefinder is close but no cigar. So, since I wanted to try the camera handheld, I decided to do a very easy calibration. Comparing to the ground glass, I found that by pulling the lens back from the infinity stop 1 mm, then the rangefinder and ground glass are in exact focus at the same time both relatively close and at infinity. I marked the spot with a soft pencil. Wish me luck !

Jim Jones · Jul 15, 2015

You might want to reset the infinity stops so both the ground glass image and rangefinder indicate correct focus when the front standard is against the stops and the focusing tracks are all the way back. The focusing scales may then need to be reset to read correctly. This may be contrary to what Graflex recommends, but it does permit very quick photography of distant subjects without focusing.

trondsi · Jul 26, 2015

I have also used the camera hand held a couple of times now, and my quick and easy calibration of the rangefinder (just putting a pencil mark in the rails where infinity should be) works! My hand held photos could hardly be sharper.

Alan Gales · Jul 26, 2015

trondsi said:
I have also used the camera hand held a couple of times now, and my quick and easy calibration of the rangefinder (just putting a pencil mark in the rails where infinity should be) works! My hand held photos could hardly be sharper.

Watch Ebay for some additional infinity stops. I had two sets on my Crown. One for the 135 lens and one set for a 210mm. It made focussing fast!

Sirius Glass · Jul 26, 2015

Alan Gales said:
Watch Ebay for some additional infinity stops. I had two sets on my Crown. One for the 135 lens and one set for a 210mm. It made focussing fast!

Regularly check the APUG classified ads and http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?27-For-Sale-Wanted for infinity stops.

trondsi · Aug 6, 2015

Camera is working properly now. Here's a sample (taken hand held, using Velvia 100). Thanks to everyone here for your help!

Doc W · Aug 9, 2015

Nice photo. It is great that you got the hang of it. Have fun!

Sirius Glass · Aug 9, 2015

Enjoy!

Shoot more film!

fotch · Aug 9, 2015

One of the all time best cameras. When you get use to it, they are very fast. Remember they used by the Press for years, for action photos.

trondsi · Aug 18, 2015

On this one I used a tripod, and Ektar 100 film.

trondsi · Aug 18, 2015

cb1 · Sep 11, 2015

Hi everybody! first post here!
I just acquired a Graflex Crown Graphic Special. This thread helped me makes a few notes for when I get some film for it.

I have a 120 size film back and I'd like to pick up the back for the Polaroid 545 so I can try out that New55 film.

That sample of the church was awesome! thanks!

Sirius Glass · Sep 11, 2015

cb1 said:
Hi everybody! first post here!
I just acquired a Graflex Crown Graphic Special. This thread helped me makes a few notes for when I get some film for it.

I have a 120 size film back and I'd like to pick up the back for the Polaroid 545 so I can try out that New55 film.

That sample of the church was awesome! thanks!

Welcome to APUG

You may be interested in www.graflex.org forum [Help Page]. I have a Pacemaker Speed Graphic and a Graflex Model D.

Waiting for my Crown Graphic, my first LF camera

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