Voigtlander Bessa I 6x9 and questions

[Anirudha Ambekar]

Hello there!

A couple of weeks ago I finally managed to find a medium format folder i.e. a Bessa I with Vaskar 105mm f/4.5 lens in good condition.
This one shoots 6x9 and 6x4.5 with a mask. I shot a role of PX-125 through this https://goo.gl/photos/Ct1NEWTfcUzmCmpv5.
Following are the observations/ questions I have amassed.
1. The slowest of speeds (B, 1 sec etc.) are definitely slower than spec. B outright sticks. The faster speeds (1/250, 1/125 and so on) may be ok. Is there a way to be sure? Also, would a CLA fix this delay?
2. I would like to know when this piece was made. Where could I locate the serial number?
3. The images from the camera although sharp when focused have a following issues (sample https://goo.gl/photos/1hnBtvRtciZG1pF48)

• distinct curvature along the edges
• chamfer at all four corners like it's BSG!
• a cloudy patch along the bottom(?) of each image

Any recommended fixes for these maladies?
4. The original 6x4.5 mask is missing. I guess I'll have to make one that also engages the hinged tab covering the red window.

 

[pdeeh]

1. a cla would fix it but is probably more than the camera is worth, or than you paid for it. There are a few threads about fixing slow speeds on 90 year old shutters, but you need to be happy to risk breaking it if you are doing it yourself. The man to ask is forum member shutterfinger
2. for the serial number, try inside the take-up chamber. But it might not have one. It's probably from the early-mid 1930s though.
3. a & 3.b Film flatness - check that the pressure plate is exerting pressure and that the film is taut when you load it.
3. c I'd guess you didn't have enough developer in the tank. If you're using a Paterson tank, 500ml will cover a 120 film adequately. However I also note you refer to PX125 as the film, in which case it must be very out of date and thus it might just have been stored badly (eg in damp conditions) and showing the effects of that and age
4. Yes

Enjoy your camera. I had an old Bessa like yours on loan for a while, and I'm still printing from the negatives. I really miss it. 6x9 makes a sweet little contact print.

 

[DWThomas]

pdeeh has pretty well covered it. As to chamfers in the corners, when we see commercially processed prints, the negatives have normally been cropped a few percent or so by an enlarging easel holding the paper (or the negative carrier in the enlarger), so we see nice clean edges and square corners. Looking at the negatives, we are seeing the shape of the film gate or mask. I know with my Voigtländer Perkeo II I can see a little bit of fuzz along an edge as though the bellows is limiting the masking. Even the curved edges could relate to that sort of thing. The key is to examine the negative with a magnifying loupe and see how the sharpness is across the area.


The camera looks great cosmetically, and Voigtländer made quality stuff, to me it would be worth trying to get it working. My impression is that those masks for smaller format in any camera that used them tended to disappear rapidly. The first problem is you can't switch formats in mid-roll, and many of us would prefer the larger negative, so the mask gets separated from the camera. Then after we pass on, the surviving relatives find this weird little plate in the back of a closet and toss it, whereas an actual camera, they recognize as such.

 

[DWThomas]

Another thought on the curved edges -- was that negative scanned on a flatbed scanner or digitized by photographing it? If the latter, I've seen some fairly significant pincushion or barrel distortion from small point and shoot zoom lenses. The key here is whether or not the curvature is visible on the negative.

 

[pdeeh]

Another thought on the curved edges --

good spot.

 

[shutterfinger]

According to Camerpedia the camera was made from the late 1940's to the late 1950's and used either a Compur Rapid or Synchro Compur BUT the instruction manual http://www.cameramanuals.org/voigtlander_pdf/voigtlander_bessa_i.pdf says it uses a Prontor S or SV shutter. The prontor will be easier to service and a link to the service manuals can be found in the camera repair section. The Bessa is not listed in the Compur repair manual available on line. The lens infinity will have to be reset once the shutter has been serviced. The shutter need to be removed from the camera and serviced to get the slow speeds working and speeds up to 1/100 are likely off.

 

[Anirudha Ambekar]

Thanks a lot everyone!

2. for the serial number, try inside the take-up chamber. But it might not have one. It's probably from the early-mid 1930s though.
3. a & 3.b Film flatness - check that the pressure plate is exerting pressure and that the film is taut when you load it.
3. c I'd guess you didn't have enough developer in the tank. If you're using a Paterson tank, 500ml will cover a 120 film adequately. However I also note you refer to PX125 as the film, in which case it must be very out of date and thus it might just have been stored badly (eg in damp conditions) and showing the effects of that and age

Inside of the take-up chamber has no information either. But I guess it'll be safe to assume the camera is 60 odd years old. And still functional!
I guess I could pull out the metal leaf springs behind the pressure plate to increase the pressure on the film when it engaged.
I did use a Patterson tank and I suspect the developer may have been just a few milliliters lower than 500. I guess its better to overshoot than have such an issue. Then again the film was hand-spooled and storage was far from ideal but I've seen this kind of issue for the first time in this lot.

Another thought on the curved edges -- was that negative scanned on a flatbed scanner or digitized by photographing it? If the latter, I've seen some fairly significant pincushion or barrel distortion from small point and shoot zoom lenses. The key here is whether or not the curvature is visible on the negative.

I think this may be the reason of the curvature. I used the "macro-capture" method with a 60mm F2.8 Nikon lens with multiple shots covering the negative and then stitched them together. I inspected the negative closely and the curvature is not as pronounced in the actual negative. Perhaps I need to do a better job keeping the negative flat.

According to Camerpedia the camera was made from the late 1940's to the late 1950's and used either a Compur Rapid or Synchro Compur BUT the instruction manual http://www.cameramanuals.org/voigtlander_pdf/voigtlander_bessa_i.pdf says it uses a Prontor S or SV shutter. The prontor will be easier to service and a link to the service manuals can be found in the camera repair section. The Bessa is not listed in the Compur repair manual available on line. The lens infinity will have to be reset once the shutter has been serviced. The shutter need to be removed from the camera and serviced to get the slow speeds working and speeds up to 1/100 are likely off.

This is a great resource! I am usually quite enthusiastic about DIY-ing stuff. But I think I'd enjoy the camera as is for a while before I take it down for experimentation. I will do it someday though..

 

[darinwc]

Congratulations on a beautiful and fine camera!
The Bessa cameras, even the inexpensive models are well made and have lasted well through the ages. Make sure the belows have no pin holes.
The Prontor shutters are more reliable in my opinion.

The Vaskar lens is a 3 element lens. Wide open it is likely to be softer in the corners.
The example you posted appears to be taken in daylight. So I imagine the lens was stopped down.
Check the negative with a magnifier. If it is soft, check the lens. It may not be parallel to the film plane. You may need to check it with a focus screen of some sort. I have used a price of vellum cut and tapped to the focus rails.

 

[nsurit]

www.certo6.com/ does repair on these folders. Has done a couple for me. I have both a Bessa i and a Bessa II. I prefer the rangefinder focusing, however to each his own.

 

[thuggins]

I have a post war Bessa I with the same lens. When I got it, there was an obvious angle between the film plane and lens board. Jurgen at Certo6 fixed this and got the shutter working fine (although I really question the value of anything slower than 1/10s on this type of camera). Anyway, the edge sharpness is very good, especially when stopped down. That triplet is a very good lens, as I believe is generally accepted for that design.

 

[Doug Richardson]

I have a post war Bessa I with the same lens. When I got it, there was an obvious angle between the film plane and lens board. Jurgen at Certo6 fixed this and got the shutter working fine (although I really question the value of anything slower than 1/10s on this type of camera). Anyway, the edge sharpness is very good, especially when stopped down. That triplet is a very good lens, as I believe is generally accepted for that design.

Tim, I think that my version is suffering from the angled lens after opening the camera. One side of the image is tack sharp but sharpness gradually fades by the other side. While still usable, I will have to look at getting it adjusted. If you don't mind me asking, what was the price for the adjustment by Jurgen? I hate to risk adjusting myself as it is a beautiful specimen. Thanks in advance. -Doug

 

[Dan Daniel]

Here is a listing of various companies' serial numbers and years. It might get you to a ballpark of when the lens was made on your camera.

http://motamedi.info/serial.htm

 

[tedr1]

The Voigtlander 1938 catalog lists four lenses, Voigtar, Helomar, Skopar and Heliar, in ascending order of price and quality. Perhaps the Vaskar is a post-war variant?

 

[darinwc]

Yes. Post war the bessa was redesigned with chrome to and bottom. It was named the Bessa I even though there were two or three variations before it.
The lens was them either a coated 3 element vaskar or the four element skopar.
The Bessa ii also had aheliar or lanthar available.