Visiting the 5 'Stans

[mooseontheloose]

Ten years ago I had the pleasure of teaching students from, what I called then, the "Stans" - Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan (who knew that that term would catch on ). I didn't know much about those countries before then, but the warmth and friendliness of my students from those areas meant that that area got added to my list of places to visit one day. Well, now I'm finally doing it - I'm off this summer to visit them, although to be honest, seeing 5 countries in a little over 3 weeks will only be a cursory introduction to them all.

That said, I'm interested in knowing of any experiences people here have had in the region, and specifically concerning photography (restrictions, tripod use, etc.). I want to travel with minimal photo gear, but at the same time be ready for all situations. Is film available in any of the main cities (Almaty, Bishkek, Ashgabat, Dushanbe, Tashkent)? I imagine that since I'll be there in the height of summer I won't need to worry about bringing a lot of high speed film, although keeping things cool will be an issue.

PS. I know there are 7 'stans, but Pakistan and Afghanistan rarely make it onto most traveller's places to visit.

 

[Rick A]

Far Out Rachelle, hope you have an incredible journey, don't forget to show us the photos.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Thanks Rick! I hope I get at least a few good photos out of the trip. Part of it will be on a tour, part on my own (with day trip tours), so I'll be balancing my photographic needs with keeping up with the group. That said, I think there's enough free time built into our days so I can revisit some places in the evenings - some of the mosques look incredible lit up at night.

 

[John Galt]

Umm, you forgot the 6th 'stan . . . Chairman Cuomo's Peoples Republik of New Yorkistan

You're welcome.

 

[James Bleifus]

I’m jealous! I’m planning on going to Uzbekistan in 2020. I hear it’s tough getting into the other ‘stans. Have fun!

 

[Kodachromeguy]

I have traveled in countries like these and been treated with unfailing kindness and courtesy. I suggest:
1. Take all your film with you.
2. Take 2 times as much film as you think you will use.
3. Pack little items like an air squeeze bulb, microfiber cloths, spare lens caps.
4. I usually take a spare light meter just in case.
5. Zip lock plastic bags can be handy for dust, etc.
6. A table tripod will often be adequate.
7. Don't forget spare batteries for your cameras and flash. Definitely take weird camera cells.
8. Some business cards with your email can be useful.
9. Kids love to look through the viewfinder of mechanical cameras - big kids, too. But you must explain that they will not see the picture on a screen.

Have fun!!!

 

[mooseontheloose]

I’m jealous! I’m planning on going to Uzbekistan in 2020. I hear it’s tough getting into the other ‘stans. Have fun!

Actually, the only one now that appears to be problematic is Turkmenistan - it's hard to get a visa unless you are transiting through, and usually only with a tour. But my tour company has told that they have not had any rejections so far this year, so that's a good sign I hope (knock on wood). Tajikistan requires an e-visa, all the others are visa-free (or on arrival), at least for Canadians.

 

[mooseontheloose]

I have traveled in countries like these and been treated with unfailing kindness and courtesy. I suggest:
1. Take all your film with you.
2. Take 2 times as much film as you think you will use.
3. Pack little items like an air squeeze bulb, microfiber cloths, spare lens caps.
4. I usually take a spare light meter just in case.
5. Zip lock plastic bags can be handy for dust, etc.
6. A table tripod will often be adequate.
7. Don't forget spare batteries for your cameras and flash. Definitely take weird camera cells.
8. Some business cards with your email can be useful.
9. Kids love to look through the viewfinder of mechanical cameras - big kids, too. But you must explain that they will not see the picture on a screen.

Have fun!!!

Thanks! I already do most of the above, but do not travel with flash and rely on a regular (but travel-friendly) tripod instead of the table top one. I find it's better for photographing buildings at night. My biggest worry is with travelling with 2 cameras (one always for backup, or other films), plus all the film I think I'll need - that goes over 7kgs pretty quickly, which is what a lot of airlines are allowing for carry-on baggage these days. That said, I do have a photographer's vest that would allow me to shove a lot of film in the pockets, if need be.

 

[spijker]

My wife and I spent two months in Karagandha Kazakhstan in Oct/Nov 2010, so quite a while ago. People were very nice to us and we didn't have any trouble getting around in the city on our own. We were there to adopt our daughter but I tried to fit in a bit of photography as well. I didn't run into any restrictions and people didn't mind being photographed. I only brought my DSLR on that trip so I can't comment on film related things. Now that Sasha is getting older, we'd love to go back to Kazakhstan and maybe Uzbekistan for a vacation. So please let us know how your trip went. Hope you'll have a great trip.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

... Is film available in any of the main cities (Almaty, Bishkek, Ashgabat, Dushanbe, Tashkent)?
...

Briefly I had this vision of a dusty pile of Fuji pack film at $4/box. Let us know what you find.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Briefly I had this vision of a dusty pile of Fuji pack film at $4/box. Let us know what you find.

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. Of course, I try to bring all that I'll need, but its good to know I have a backup, somewhere, just in case.

 

[James Bleifus]

Actually, the only one now that appears to be problematic is Turkmenistan - it's hard to get a visa unless you are transiting through, and usually only with a tour.

I’m glad to learn that my information is outdated. Thanks!

 

[awty]

Wow! off on another big adventure, good luck. I will settle for watching Simon Reeves "Meet the Stans"

 

[jvo]

Far Out Rachelle, hope you have an incredible journey, don't forget to show us the photos.

unvarnished plug - rachelle has shared pictures of her travels in the postcard exchange on this site. sign up, it's fun.

 

[mooseontheloose]

unvarnished plug - rachelle has shared pictures of her travels in the postcard exchange on this site. sign up, it's fun.

Thanks James - I just finished visiting Kyrgyzstan (seriously, a landscape photographer’s dream) and hope that I have a few good images from my time there. I’m sure more than a few images from this trip (5 Stans, plus Azerbaijan, the UAE, and Iraqi Kurdistan) will see their way into the postcard exchange!

We ran into some boys offering their birds of prey (mostly eagles and falcons) for us to hold, here’s a quick snap I got of one before he moved on to another tourist:
:

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Have a great trip.

 

[mooseontheloose]

So I’ve just finished my 5 ‘Stans trip (although unofficially I will be heading to my 6th “Stan” later this week - Iraqi Kurdistan). Even though I only had a limited amount of time in each country, I found them all worth visiting. For nature lovers/photographers, both Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan have a lot to offer with all the mountains, valleys, lakes, and gorges. Uzbekistan was great for all the cultural monuments, and Turkmenistan was just odd (but interesting), from the marble city of Ashgabat to the flaming crater of Darvaza. I spent the least amount of time in Kazakhstan, but Almaty had a very Eastern European feel and I think this would be a great country to explore not only for its nature, but also its Soviet heritage.

Film-wise, be aware that there are an insane amount of X-ray scans your bags have to go through. In 18 days of travel I’ve had to put my film through at least 30 scanners, probably more. I was able to get hand checks in a couple of places, but for the most part, everything had to go through the machines. At airports and border crossings that meant at least 3-4 scans at each location. I’m pretty fatalistic about my film at the moment - I’m hoping for the best, but expecting the worst. Hopefully I’ll have some salvageable images.

 

[MattKing]

Glad the trip has been an interesting one for you Rachelle.
If you end up with a lot of X-ray damage, maybe you can temporarily designate your Rollieflex as a "box" camera, and devote the results to a Toy and Box camera project.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Let us know how your films handled all that X-raying.

 

[NJH]

Fingers crossed you will be OK. I had similar on a trip to India earlier in year, film went through something like 12 scans because they were on alert for terrorism, long queues as well. I had 2 rolls shot inside a Jain/Buddhist temple cut into the side of a mountain at 3200 EI. They came out fine.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Here are a few iPhone snaps from Kyrgyzstan - the first is some old Soviet film I found and bought in an antique shop in Karakol before my camera got damaged, the second is one of many traffic jams we came across (horses or cows were also very common), a wooden church from Karakol, and the last three are just some of the many fabulous landscapes we saw (the Seven Bulls of Jeti-Oguz, Fairy Tale Canyon, and the shores of Song-Kul respectively.)

)

 

[mooseontheloose]

And here are some from the Darvaza gas crater in Turkmenistan (taken at dawn). the first image is from a nearby bubbling mud crater taken at sunset, the others are from the gas crater. The heat from this thing was pretty intense, especially if you were downwind.

 

[mooseontheloose]

And now Uzbekistan- images from Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. The last was taken inside a mausoleum where a newly married couple got blessings before heading off to their reception.

This country was amazing for its historical and cultural heritage - this is where Genghis Khan and Timur (Tamerlane) laid waste and consolidated their powers.

 

[mooseontheloose]

Tajikistan does not get as much love as the other Stans, but its natural beauty was on par with Kyrgyzstan’s, and the people the friendliest I met on this trip. The first image is of a local family we sat next to and shared food with during our picnics, the second is of their youngest child (of at least 8 kids) who must of said hello to us at least 500 times, the next is another kid who was ready to go swimming with his siblings in the first of the Seven Lakes region, and the last images are three of the seven lakes we visited. You can see in the last image how severe the switchbacks were: this 75km trip took three hours one way.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Great shots. Great trip.