stawastawa
Member
I went to make some cyanotypes and was surprised to not get an image after 1 hour in the sun.
Negative is on Kodak Safety Film, wondering if maybe it has UV blocking capabilities. A leaf cyanotype (also under glass, turned out fine in 8 min). Previous cyanotypes from negs on Delta 100 have taken under 30 min.
Process:
EHB 120 Ektachrome film (tungsten) (E3)
Developed in Rodinal various ways as BW
Classic Cyanotpe from photographer's formulary - single coat.
- in a contact print frame from my darkroom
- direct sun for 1 hour (in Colorado)
I got Dmax border (deep blue even after washing) and a faint image before processing, but washed away in water development.
Maybe someone who does Carbon, or albumen, or platinum or other UV process can chime in on if color films or safety films somehow inhibit UV transmission.
(also if someone would like to share target negative highlight density information that would be helpful information)
Negative is on Kodak Safety Film, wondering if maybe it has UV blocking capabilities. A leaf cyanotype (also under glass, turned out fine in 8 min). Previous cyanotypes from negs on Delta 100 have taken under 30 min.
Process:
EHB 120 Ektachrome film (tungsten) (E3)
Developed in Rodinal various ways as BW
Classic Cyanotpe from photographer's formulary - single coat.
- in a contact print frame from my darkroom
- direct sun for 1 hour (in Colorado)
I got Dmax border (deep blue even after washing) and a faint image before processing, but washed away in water development.
Maybe someone who does Carbon, or albumen, or platinum or other UV process can chime in on if color films or safety films somehow inhibit UV transmission.
(also if someone would like to share target negative highlight density information that would be helpful information)